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Stop derailments, well almost

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  • Bill Hoshiko
    ... trying very hard to get a Z gauge layout up and running. Having a lot of trouble trying to stop my trains derailing especially when the 2-6-0 s running
    Message 1 of 2 , Jun 30, 2003
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      --- In zgaugebritishandeuropean@yahoogroups.com, "c.edwards23"
      <c.edwards23@n...> wrote:

      > Hello Eric This is the first time I've written to the group. I'm
      trying very hard to get a Z gauge layout up and running. Having a
      lot of trouble trying to stop my trains derailing especially when the
      2-6-0's running with the pony truck leading.


      Hello C,

      The model steam engine with a 2 wheel pony truck is the worlds best
      track tester. It will derail at the slightest hint of an imperfectly
      aligned rail or from a kink in the rail or from the track gauge being
      too wide or too narrow.

      Fist, mark each place where your 2-6-0's pony truck derails. Follow
      the rails back until you find the last point where two rails are
      joined. Run your fingers along the upper-inner edge of the rail to
      see if you can feel a snag.

      This upper-inner rail edge must be perfectly aligned. If you have a
      fine emery cloth you can also round off any sharp edges here. The
      light weight pony truck's flange will pick at any sharp edge and lift
      the wheel up and over the rail. Your engine may move forward a few
      inches before it falls off the track and give you a false indication
      of exactly where the derailment was caused.

      All other edges of your rail need not be aligned but this upper-inner
      EDGE of rail must be. Not the top of the rail or the side of the
      rail head but the upper-inner edge of both rails of the track. Sorry
      to be so redundant but sometimes this fact is hard to convey. The
      upper-inner EDGE (corner?) of the rail.

      If you have derailments else where, it could be because you fastened
      the track to your road bed or your to your base board by inserting a
      nail through one of the holes in a tie. If you should push this nail
      in too firmly, it can depress the center of the tie pushing it
      downward, bringing the rails up in an arc causing you to have
      narrowed the gauge sufficiently to squeeze the wheels up and off the
      track. The tie should not be fastened down so firmly that it cannot
      move slightly. The nail head should not be touching the top of the
      tie. And, if your nail is too large for the hole, it may cause the
      tie to bow simply from the friction between the nail and the tie.

      If your derailments are caused at one of your turnouts, then you
      should go to:

      http://www.zscale.org/articles/turnout.html

      This website will explain how to keep Marklin turnouts from derailing
      your trains.

      Some derailments happen only when you back a train along your track.
      The repair is the same. Trains backing up put different forces
      against the rails and may derail where trains being pulled will have
      no problems. Many people blame their trains for all their derailment
      problems but most times it is from the track not being perfectly
      aligned. But, there are also derailments caused by the trains
      themselves, such as, derailments caused because the train is too
      large to navigate a short radius curve. The trucks do not swing far
      enough. The couplers are too short and the corners of the cars
      navigating a curve touch and derail the train.

      Follow your train around the track and use a colored pin to mark each
      place where a derailment occurs and then investigate the reason.
      Little by little you will find that your trains travel further along
      the track until only your clumsy fingers or elbows knock the little
      things off the tracks.

      Good luck (not really, it is good detective work) and may your trains
      run derailment free always.

      Bill
      El Toro, Ca
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