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Serious Answer to a Good Question

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  • Reynard Wellman
    Guys, Aside from my comic April Fools digression, I do have some serious observations. There are at least five ways to uncouple Z trains, none of them
    Message 1 of 4 , Apr 2, 2002
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      Guys,

      Aside from my comic April Fools digression, I do have some serious
      observations. There are at least five ways to uncouple Z trains, none of
      them reliable. Most of you are very familiar with these things but
      others may not be:

      1] If you have converted to all MTL Kadee style couplers then the
      "under-the-track" #921 magnet works fairly well in level and graded
      areas. However, you will have to install a lot of them to cover many
      possible sidings. And it takes practise to jiggle your trains back and
      forth with your power supply to get the right pair of cars to uncouple.
      But it is very effective once you have mastered the skill, grasshopper.

      2] MicroTrains also makes a pair of magnets on a swizzle stick that
      goes down around the pair of knuckles you are uncoupling. I've found
      this tool awkward (easy to knock the cars off track). It works
      sometimes.

      3] A bamboo skewer, styrene rod or brass tubing can be formed into a
      decoupling tool as well. Be carefull because just barely touching the
      cars knocks them off the track especially if the place where you are
      uncoupling is a stretch to reach.

      4] Naturally those who have opted to stay with Marklin couplers have the
      option of using their uncoupling track which is solenoid driven. Your
      cars have to be perfectly spotted over this device. It will cost mucho
      dinero to install and use these items on all your sidings.

      5] Marklin couplers decouple ok by hand. Just a little poking around
      under the couplers with your skewer or a toothpick will work sometimes.

      Finally, for MTL coupler users I would recommend MTL's Z & Nn3 Height
      Gauge. And yes, adjusting the magnetic trip pin might help if your
      couplers are somewhat out of whack. Curved sections of track should be
      avoided for coupling and decoupling, though Marklin couplers seem to
      connect easily just about anywhere.

      It's been one of many Z scale challenges. Because this problem has been
      a big unresolved nuisance, it needs some serious research by a very
      innovative and well educated engineering team.

      ciao,

      Reynard
      ddechamp71 wrote:

      > --- In z_scale@y..., "The President" <epsilonlyrae@l...> wrote:
      > > Hi all,
      > >
      > > reading on other groups, in particular those related to Layout
      > Operations in HO and N, I realized that most part of operators
      > prefer to use manual uncoupling instead of using electric or magnetic
      > devices. It is more realistic and reliable.
      > > Moreover many use handheld tools like a "bamboo skewer" that is
      > something obscure to me...
      > >
      > > So the question is: what about we Zers?
      > >
      > > Do you uncouple the cars preferably by hands or using MTL
      > (magnetic) and MKL (electric) uncouplers? Do you use any handheld
      > tool?
      > > In particular, for Magne-matic couplers any suggestion about how to
      > better perform uncoupling activities without partially removing one
      > side of a car form the track? I mean uncoupling possibly just
      > touching the couplers as I presume a "bamboo skewer" should do.....
      > >
      > > Thanks in advance,
      > >
      > > Alex
      >
      >
      > Alex, in my case I use Magnematic Z scale decouplers, as I'm MT/KD
      > coupler equipped. I have difficulties with several cars to uncouple
      > them, it must be the result of a bad adjusting of the trip pin. To
      > solve this problem that must not be uncommon, I have heard that some
      > modellers use N scale Magnematic uncouplers.....
      > Cheers
      > Dominique from Paris, France
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
      ADVERTISEMENT


      >
      > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
      >
      >
      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • David George
      I just rip them apart like a Gozilla. Then again when I m sane , I use a dental picking tool. David G. Spring,Tex. ...
      Message 2 of 4 , Apr 2, 2002
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        I just rip them apart like a Gozilla.
        Then again when I'm sane , I use a dental picking tool.
        David G.
        Spring,Tex.
        --- Reynard Wellman <micron@...> wrote:
        > Guys,
        >
        > Aside from my comic April Fools digression, I do have some serious
        > observations. There are at least five ways to uncouple Z trains, none of
        > them reliable. Most of you are very familiar with these things but
        > others may not be:
        >
        > 1] If you have converted to all MTL Kadee style couplers then the
        > "under-the-track" #921 magnet works fairly well in level and graded
        > areas. However, you will have to install a lot of them to cover many
        > possible sidings. And it takes practise to jiggle your trains back and
        > forth with your power supply to get the right pair of cars to uncouple.
        > But it is very effective once you have mastered the skill, grasshopper.
        >
        > 2] MicroTrains also makes a pair of magnets on a swizzle stick that
        > goes down around the pair of knuckles you are uncoupling. I've found
        > this tool awkward (easy to knock the cars off track). It works
        > sometimes.
        >
        > 3] A bamboo skewer, styrene rod or brass tubing can be formed into a
        > decoupling tool as well. Be carefull because just barely touching the
        > cars knocks them off the track especially if the place where you are
        > uncoupling is a stretch to reach.
        >
        > 4] Naturally those who have opted to stay with Marklin couplers have the
        > option of using their uncoupling track which is solenoid driven. Your
        > cars have to be perfectly spotted over this device. It will cost mucho
        > dinero to install and use these items on all your sidings.
        >
        > 5] Marklin couplers decouple ok by hand. Just a little poking around
        > under the couplers with your skewer or a toothpick will work sometimes.
        >
        > Finally, for MTL coupler users I would recommend MTL's Z & Nn3 Height
        > Gauge. And yes, adjusting the magnetic trip pin might help if your
        > couplers are somewhat out of whack. Curved sections of track should be
        > avoided for coupling and decoupling, though Marklin couplers seem to
        > connect easily just about anywhere.
        >
        > It's been one of many Z scale challenges. Because this problem has been
        > a big unresolved nuisance, it needs some serious research by a very
        > innovative and well educated engineering team.
        >
        > ciao,
        >
        > Reynard
        > ddechamp71 wrote:
        >
        > > --- In z_scale@y..., "The President" <epsilonlyrae@l...> wrote:
        > > > Hi all,
        > > >
        > > > reading on other groups, in particular those related to Layout
        > > Operations in HO and N, I realized that most part of operators
        > > prefer to use manual uncoupling instead of using electric or magnetic
        > > devices. It is more realistic and reliable.
        > > > Moreover many use handheld tools like a "bamboo skewer" that is
        > > something obscure to me...
        > > >
        > > > So the question is: what about we Zers?
        > > >
        > > > Do you uncouple the cars preferably by hands or using MTL
        > > (magnetic) and MKL (electric) uncouplers? Do you use any handheld
        > > tool?
        > > > In particular, for Magne-matic couplers any suggestion about how to
        > > better perform uncoupling activities without partially removing one
        > > side of a car form the track? I mean uncoupling possibly just
        > > touching the couplers as I presume a "bamboo skewer" should do.....
        > > >
        > > > Thanks in advance,
        > > >
        > > > Alex
        > >
        > >
        > > Alex, in my case I use Magnematic Z scale decouplers, as I'm MT/KD
        > > coupler equipped. I have difficulties with several cars to uncouple
        > > them, it must be the result of a bad adjusting of the trip pin. To
        > > solve this problem that must not be uncommon, I have heard that some
        > > modellers use N scale Magnematic uncouplers.....
        > > Cheers
        > > Dominique from Paris, France
        > >
        > >
        > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
        > ADVERTISEMENT
        >
        >
        > >
        > > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
        > >
        > >
        > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
        >


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      • Reynard Wellman
        Hello David, Hey, that s a perfect solution for manually uncoupling those grabby MTL couplers! I m going to order one. Nice one, David Regards, Reynard ...
        Message 3 of 4 , Apr 2, 2002
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          Hello David,

          Hey, that's a perfect solution for manually uncoupling those grabby MTL
          couplers! I'm going to order one.

          Nice one, David

          Regards,
          Reynard
          David George wrote:

          > I just rip them apart like a Gozilla.
          > Then again when I'm sane , I use a dental picking tool.
          > David G.
          > Spring,Tex.


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • The President
          Thanks everybody for the interesting replies to my questions. Ciao, Alex [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          Message 4 of 4 , Apr 4, 2002
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            Thanks everybody for the interesting replies to my questions.

            Ciao,

            Alex


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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