Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Precision Scratchbuilding Tools

Expand Messages
  • John Cubbin
    Hi, For most of my Z scratchbuilding so far I ve been using 1/32 bass wood, and making all cuts freehand using a self-healing mat and a steel ruler... but I d
    Message 1 of 4 , Apr 1 11:28 AM
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi,

      For most of my Z scratchbuilding so far I've been using 1/32" bass wood,
      and making all cuts freehand using a self-healing mat and a steel
      ruler... but I'd like to increase the accuracy of my cuts. I've seen
      various tools like the Chopper, and the Chopper II, does anyone have any
      tools suggestions along these lines?

      I've posted a picture in the "Photos" section in the "ztrains.com"
      folder, it's titled "platform.jpg". While I'm fairly happy with this for
      right now, I'd really like to tighten things up a bit, and I think some
      precision tools would help.

      Any suggestions appreciated.

      Thanks

      John
      http://www.ztrains.com
      Exploring Basic Z Scale Ideas


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Yuji Kuwabara
      Hello, ... I think caliper is necessary for pre-cut scribing and post-cut measuring. For flat and perpendicular cut face, TrueSander may be good. I have not
      Message 2 of 4 , Apr 1 7:05 PM
      • 0 Attachment
        Hello,

        > For most of my Z scratchbuilding so far I've been using 1/32" bass wood,
        > and making all cuts freehand using a self-healing mat and a steel
        > ruler... but I'd like to increase the accuracy of my cuts. I've seen
        > various tools like the Chopper, and the Chopper II, does anyone have any
        > tools suggestions along these lines?

        I think caliper is necessary for pre-cut scribing and post-cut
        measuring.

        For flat and perpendicular cut face, TrueSander may be good.
        I have not owned nor used it, but I made similar sanding jig.
        After I sand styrene strip cut face using the jig, the strip
        "stands" on desk.

        For metal pieces, finish with end mill may be perfect.


        Regards.

        Yuji Kuwabara
      • digistevez
        Hi Yuji, I have a Northwest Short Line The Chopper (thought it was a film editing thing at first when found at thrift shop). It is good for certain cutting
        Message 3 of 4 , Apr 2 8:18 PM
        • 0 Attachment
          Hi Yuji, I have a Northwest Short Line "The Chopper" (thought it was
          a film editing thing at first when found at thrift shop). It is good
          for certain cutting like small boards for walkways and some smaller
          building walls but I still prefer to go through 5 or so pointed
          exacto blades using a straight ruler with 2-3 passes, other wise you
          can get cut depression. I built two trolleys with the 1-sided razor
          blade chopper but want to replace the base which is masonite and
          wears with blade resulting in a groove, this distorts material being
          cut sometimes. I have also tried small W.german made paper cutter for
          1/32 Balsa and signage. Nothing really beats a blade and straight
          edge for reliability.

          Steve
        • Jay & Anne Greer
          Hello Yuji, One tool I couldn t do without is the parallel bar on my drafting table. One side of it has a steel edge for cutting long straight lines. A good
          Message 4 of 4 , Apr 3 6:58 AM
          • 0 Attachment
            Hello Yuji,
            One tool I couldn't do without is the parallel bar on my drafting table.
            One side of it has a steel edge for cutting long straight lines. A good set
            of drafting tools from a flea market or ebay are also a must. An digital
            scale calulator, scale card and scale ruler are also a help. Don't forget an
            adjustable circle cutter. If you really want to go for super tools, check
            out the mills and lathes offered by Sherline. There are digital calipers
            and optical aids such as the medical magnifiers made by "Optivue". One
            handy tool offered by Micro Mark is a magnetic clamping base to hold parts
            square for gluing. Tooth pics, Q-tips and razor blades are my best friends.
            Hope this helps,
            Jay Greer

            > From: "digistevez" <dgsteve@...>
            > Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
            > Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 04:18:21 -0000
            > To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
            > Subject: [z_scale] Re: Precision Scratchbuilding Tools
            >
            > Hi Yuji, I have a Northwest Short Line "The Chopper" (thought it was
            > a film editing thing at first when found at thrift shop). It is good
            > for certain cutting like small boards for walkways and some smaller
            > building walls but I still prefer to go through 5 or so pointed
            > exacto blades using a straight ruler with 2-3 passes, other wise you
            > can get cut depression. I built two trolleys with the 1-sided razor
            > blade chopper but want to replace the base which is masonite and
            > wears with blade resulting in a groove, this distorts material being
            > cut sometimes. I have also tried small W.german made paper cutter for
            > 1/32 Balsa and signage. Nothing really beats a blade and straight
            > edge for reliability.
            >
            > Steve
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
            >
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            >
            >
          Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.