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Re: handlaying track - jig??

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  • Ole Rosted
    Hello group, I have now both the materials and tools needed to begin handlaying code 40 rail. The trauma, that hit me as I saw the tiny rails emerge from the
    Message 1 of 4 , Feb 5, 2000
      Hello group,

      I have now both the materials and tools needed to begin handlaying
      code 40 rail.

      The trauma, that hit me as I saw the tiny rails emerge from the box,
      has gone. At least partially.

      Thank you all for replies and good advice on the subject.

      I have decided to use the fishbone method of laying tracks, that is: I
      will solder one rail to the PC ties and then place the fishbone on the
      layout and solder the second rail in using 3-point gauges (RLW)

      I have "invented" a jig built around a steel ruler. I will press the
      rail against the ruler in some way, place a PC tie at the end (I
      presume a 90 degree angle between the long side and the end of the
      ruler) and solder it to the prepared tie. Then I will shift the rail
      an inch or so and solder in the next tie. After placing the fishbone
      on the layout I will use a gauge to solder in the other rail of the
      track - take the assembly out, glue the wood ties in place - and then
      solder the completed track into the layout. One rail soldered to PC
      ties will give me a perfect flex-track I guess.

      Until now I have done nothing but look at my new fine/expensive tools
      - If anybody here feels like killing my jig-idea please do so before
      I make another false move.

      (The fishbone idea comes from www.fielder-rowe.freeserve.co.uk
      On their page about tracklaying a jig is shown. I think that one is an
      overkill, allthough I would by one if I could find it for sale
      somewhere. But I believe that my own version - as described above -
      will do the job).

      Any objections, opinions? I will recieve any input with gratitude.

      BTW I saw in a danish HO periodical a rail-cutter named Xuron
      mentioned.
      Is this the tool that was recommended here some time ago?
      I didn't pay much notice to it then, as I thought handlaying tracks
      was well beyond my horizon. And here I am. Was Xuron the name
      mentioned?

      regards Ole Rosted, Denmark
    • BJKRONEN@aol.com
      ... The Xuron cutter is the best $10usd you will ever spend. It works great !! But do NOT use the tool for cutting wires, plastic and other miscellaneous
      Message 2 of 4 , Feb 5, 2000
        Ole:

        > BTW I saw in a danish HO periodical a rail-cutter named Xuron
        > mentioned.
        > Is this the tool that was recommended here some time ago?
        > I didn't pay much notice to it then, as I thought handlaying tracks
        > was well beyond my horizon. And here I am. Was Xuron the name
        > mentioned?

        The Xuron cutter is the best $10usd you will ever spend. It works great !!
        But do NOT use the tool for cutting wires, plastic and other miscellaneous
        jobs. Save it ONLY for track cutting. The blades are cut at a strange angle
        that is perfect for track, but dulls quickly when used for "odd jobs" around
        the layout.

        My perceptions is the tool cuts best from top to bottom, although a
        side-to-side cut is still very clean. I've never had to file the ends of the
        rail, ever.

        Regards,
        Bill Kronenberger
        Houston
      • Bill Hoshiko
        Ole, I went to Mark Fielder s Nn3 web site and saw what you were speaking about. It is a very elaborate tie & rail jig. For the moment it is not needed. I
        Message 3 of 4 , Feb 5, 2000
          Ole,

          I went to Mark Fielder's Nn3 web site and saw what you were speaking
          about. It is a very elaborate tie & rail jig. For the moment it is not
          needed.

          I understand your idea, but you must first decide what spacing you want
          between the PC ties and the wooden ties. If you just do it randomly,
          you will not achieve the symmetrical look that the prototype track has.

          You should place some masking tape, sticky side up, on a flat surface
          and put down some wooden and PC ties, spacing them so that they look
          right for you. No need to measure the distance between them accurately
          but be certain that they approximate the prototype distance and that
          they look right to you. The ties are oversize anyway so measuring will
          not help. You are striving for a reasonable "look".

          Put some rail on top of these and eyeball them to see if they look
          "real". Once you are satisfied with the look of the spacing, mark your
          work table with the location of the PC ties. Now you can solder the
          ties to your rail at the marks made on your wife's kitchen table and
          have proper spacing for the wooden ties to fit between the PC ties
          without looking too irregular.

          After laying a few feet of track by hand, trying to keep the ties
          perpendicular to the rail, you will fashion a small pattern with what
          ever material that you have on hand (cardboard, styrene, wood, dried
          noodles) and make a jig of some sorts. And after a while you will make
          a jig for the wooden ties also because lining these up by eye will
          become laborious.

          After building several miles of track you will discard the jigs and go
          back to "eyeballing" because your eye sight would have become sensitive
          to the spacing and you will no longer need a jig.

          OR, sometime in the future we will see a notice on this list that you
          are offering a Z scale tie jig for sale to help others do what you did.
          :o))

          Ole, I hope that I haven't offended you by my remarks. Sometimes I
          just go too far with my off hand statements and I do not have the time
          to edit them out. The hands type before the brain reacts. (Most times
          the brain never reacts)

          I called most of the popular model train shops nearby (within 35 miles)
          and no one had any code 40 rail. I then called the Original Whistle
          Stop in Pasadena and they had some on hand. It is a one way trip of
          about 70 miles but the Original Whistle Stop is one of the Southern
          California train shops that must be visited at least once a year. If
          you think that Z scale is expensive, look at the brass O scale
          locomotives. I pay less for my automobiles and my automobiles have
          air-conditioning.

          By the way, Mark Fielder's web site at:

          http://www.fielder-rowe.freeserve.co.uk

          is a gold mine of information.

          Using the web for gaining information is so great. The education about
          model railroading that I got from reading the web would be equivalent of
          100 years of subscriptions to magazines. I do not limit my self to Z
          web sites. Mark Fielder's web pages is about Nn3 but Nn3 uses Z scale
          track. The mechanisms used to power Nn3 locomotives should inspire some
          in Z to scratch build Z locomotives,s.

          The problem with the web is that you can spend too much time on it and
          never get to running trains.

          Way over my allotted time.

          Bill

          Ole Rosted wrote:
          >
          > From: Ole Rosted <Ole.Rosted@...>
          >
          > deleted
        • Bim Bousman
          One of the best ways to decide how to do it is to do it. Make a little bit one way, and then try a little bit another way, and soon you will decide which you
          Message 4 of 4 , Feb 5, 2000
            One of the best ways to decide how to do it is to do it. Make a little
            bit one way, and then try a little bit another way, and soon you will
            decide which you like best.

            Several of the best, most experienced modellers on this list and the Nn3
            list have completely different approaches. All of them must work.

            For me, using lots of soldered PC ties works best because that way I can
            control the gauge closely. If I was better at pre-bending the track,
            maybe I would use less.

            BB

            Ole Rosted wrote:
            >
            > From: Ole Rosted <Ole.Rosted@...>
            >
            > Hello group,
            >
            > I have now both the materials and tools needed to begin handlaying
            > code 40 rail.
            >
            > The trauma, that hit me as I saw the tiny rails emerge from the box,
            > has gone. At least partially.
            >
            > Thank you all for replies and good advice on the subject.
            >
            > I have decided to use the fishbone method of laying tracks, that is: I
            > will solder one rail to the PC ties and then place the fishbone on the
            > layout and solder the second rail in using 3-point gauges (RLW)
            >
            > I have "invented" a jig built around a steel ruler. I will press the
            > rail against the ruler in some way, place a PC tie at the end (I
            > presume a 90 degree angle between the long side and the end of the
            > ruler) and solder it to the prepared tie. Then I will shift the rail
            > an inch or so and solder in the next tie. After placing the fishbone
            > on the layout I will use a gauge to solder in the other rail of the
            > track - take the assembly out, glue the wood ties in place - and then
            > solder the completed track into the layout. One rail soldered to PC
            > ties will give me a perfect flex-track I guess.
            >
            > Until now I have done nothing but look at my new fine/expensive tools
            > - If anybody here feels like killing my jig-idea please do so before
            > I make another false move.
            >
            > (The fishbone idea comes from www.fielder-rowe.freeserve.co.uk
            > On their page about tracklaying a jig is shown. I think that one is an
            > overkill, allthough I would by one if I could find it for sale
            > somewhere. But I believe that my own version - as described above -
            > will do the job).
            >
            > Any objections, opinions? I will recieve any input with gratitude.
            >
            > BTW I saw in a danish HO periodical a rail-cutter named Xuron
            > mentioned.
            > Is this the tool that was recommended here some time ago?
            > I didn't pay much notice to it then, as I thought handlaying tracks
            > was well beyond my horizon. And here I am. Was Xuron the name
            > mentioned?
            >
            > regards Ole Rosted, Denmark
            >
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