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Re: New to Z

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  • Ztrack@aol.com
    Welcome to Z scale! Yes, Z is perfect if space is limited. I is also perfect if you have unlimited space and plan on building a large layout! You mentioned
    Message 1 of 42 , Feb 1, 2000
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      Welcome to Z scale!

      Yes, Z is perfect if space is limited. I is also perfect if you have
      unlimited space and plan on building a large layout! You mentioned signaling.
      I it quite possible to operate trains and run them by signal in Z. I I use
      signals to control a number of sidings on my layout to store trains and
      regulate operation.

      Z tends to be more expensive then other scales. Availability and pricing
      though depends on what your interest may be. If you are looking to model U.S.
      prototype, Micro-Trains items are less than M�rklin�s. MT offers a nice line
      of U.S. prototypes. Companies such as PENZEE are now offering U.S. hoppers to
      fill the gaps left in the MT and M�rklin lines.

      M�rklin offers an extensive line of European prototypes and some select but
      quite nice U.S. prototypes. They are continually expanding their line with
      new body styles, paint schemes and accessories.

      As for scratch building, likely some will be necessary, but if you are
      planning a small layout, you will find manufacturers such as Micro-Structures,
      Micron-Art, Vollmer and Kibri offer nice lines of Z items.

      I hope this helps!

      Rob Kluz
      Ztrack Magazine
    • joe vandenberg
      I would like to thank everyone for the reply s to this post. I did check out the switching videos and it certainly seems plausible. I m not too worried about
      Message 42 of 42 , Dec 26, 2012
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        I would like to thank everyone for the reply's to this post. I did check out the switching videos and it certainly seems plausible. I'm not too worried about the lack of steam, as I can always scratchbuild a boiler or just place it in 1955, where there are rtr options available. I do think that the USRA models and the AMC 2-8-4's would sell well in Z, they certainly have in other scales, causing Bachmann to make several in HO and N that are C&O specific, not just the name slapped on a generic body.
        One thing if I can ask, can someone measure a AZL or MTL 2 bay offset hopper and let me know the length over the couplers? That will help me in my trackplanning tremendously.
        Thanks,
        Joe Vandenberg
        C&O Piney Creek Branch, 1944

        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Garth" <garth.a.hamilton@...> wrote:
        >
        > Welcome to Z scale and there are quite a few converts here like myself coming from N and NN3.
        >
        > despite several other messages about unlikely hood of anyone coming up with an American Mallet type engine in the near future. Marklin has made several in European outline so if you are prepared to make your own boiler shell and decorate it it is possible to make your own, but you have to be prepared to spend a few bucks for the donner and there is one mod required for long time running of these engines. I invested in a pewter boiler shell for another project and grandfathered it to my mallet. I started with an 0-8-8-0 and created a 2-8-8-2 with various parts from my project box and added a faulhaber 8mm motor with bell shaped flywheel over one end and Marklin worm on the other. As proof of concept here is my resulting engine with a log train.In American Z so fare there has been a Big Boy and a Challenger both in Brass for big budgets, I built my engine for about 25% of the cost of one of these brass engines. The next best thing is the Mikado's coming from AZL in March or April. I remember seeing another builders chassis for a big boy using Marklin Mikado chassis and motor in the tender that looked interesting. by going ahead 11 years in your time line the F& from Micro Trains is beast when it comes to pulling power and with the recent retooling of the A and B shells you can now have a powered B unit. so F7A-B-B-A would certainly provide the most pulling power of any 4 engines I know of currently. With a bit of work you can re power the F units with GP chassis and this would allow you to mix power between F& and GP7 while this would allow for easier adding of DCC to the engines 4 of these GP7's will not pull as much as 4 F7's look forward to seeing the new River Gorge in Z with long strings of hoppers.
        >
        > regards Garth
        >
        > enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSwYFfscKhQ
        >
        > --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "joe vandenberg" <jitrainnut@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Hi Group,
        > > I am a longtime HO modeler focusing on the Chesapeake and Ohio's main and branch lines in the New River Gorge area of West Virginia. While I have built several layouts in HO and N, I was never really happy because I could not fit in everything that I wanted, and I really did not want to cut so much out. I focus on the WW2 era. I am an accomplished structure scratchbuilder, including in N, so that does not phase me. Toodling around on the 'net, I noticed that there is not much available in Z steam, but if I design and build a layout based on, say, 1955; then my options open up quite a bit. At that time, the C&O consisted mostly of GP-7, E-8, F-7, and rib side and offset side 2 and 3 bay hoppers. I've noticed that most if not all are available in Z ready to run. Most of the physical plant was the same in 1944 as it was in 1955, so backdating will be easy when that happens. I figure I'll draw up a plan, and if that works, I'll build a small display layout and see what I think. I have some questions, keeping in mind that my intention will be to backdate the layout as soon as USRA 2-6-6-2's become available, and a 2-6-6-6 would be awesome too! What should I use for a minimum radius? Average train length for passing sidings? In your experience, what maximum grade should I use? How about narrow guage? While I would do a lot of running, I also enjoy switching and building coal mines. Much as I hate to cut up a $200.00 engine, what is the feasibility of gutting a GP-7 and adding a sound decoder? Any comments you have would be appreciated.
        > >
        >
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