Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: Modified 88836

Expand Messages
  • jcubbin@optonline.net
    Kim, This is really amazing work, could you post up some text describing exactly what was done? I can t stop watching the large video! Thanks John
    Message 1 of 9 , Dec 2, 2001
    • 0 Attachment
      Kim,

      This is really amazing work, could you post up some text describing exactly what was done? I can't stop watching the large video!

      Thanks

      John
      http://www.ztrains.com
      Exploring Basic Z Scale Ideas
    • Sönke Löffler-von Gierke
      Well, I can see strange wires, and an engineer, and some light from the firebox. http://www.blueneptune.com/~kim/88836/88836-2.JPG Seems the light even shines
      Message 2 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
      • 0 Attachment
        Well, I can see strange wires, and an engineer, and some light from
        the firebox. http://www.blueneptune.com/~kim/88836/88836-2.JPG
        Seems the light even shines when the engine is standing.
        http://www.blueneptune.com/~kim/88836/M88836-3.MPG
        And the blinking green diode beneath the tender doesn't look like
        standard, too.

        But: How is it done?

        Sönke

        --- In z_scale@y..., jcubbin@o... wrote:
        > Kim,
        >
        > This is really amazing work, could you post up some text describing
        exactly what was done? I can't stop watching the large video!
        >
        > Thanks
        >
        > John
        > http://www.ztrains.com
        > Exploring Basic Z Scale Ideas
      • jmac_han@hotmail.com
        ... And the result is astounding. Flickering firebox glow, slow speed operation and rear tender lights (at least from what I saw in the hi- res MPEG) all run
        Message 3 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
        • 0 Attachment
          --- In z_scale@y..., kim@b... wrote:
          > Folks,
          > After many months of modifying my 88836 here is the result.

          And the result is astounding. Flickering firebox glow, slow speed
          operation and rear tender lights (at least from what I saw in the hi-
          res MPEG) all run from a DZX121 decoder I imagine. When can you
          convert my locos? ;-)

          I'm curious to know what wires you used from the tender to the loco.
          They look thin enough to be commutator windings but what would I know.

          GREAT work, Kim.

          Cheers,
          Jeffrey MacHan
          Chief Imagineer
          Val Ease Central Railroad
        • kim@blueneptune.com
          Folks, Thanks for the complements. I had put in a few months of work in this loco I ll try to summarize all I can remember: 1) I first started with adding
          Message 4 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
          • 0 Attachment
            Folks,
            Thanks for the complements. I had put in a few months of work
            in this loco I'll try to summarize all I can remember:
            1) I first started with adding tender pickup
            2) I used a DN142 Decoder which is full FX decoder. FX are the
            functions used for lighting that Digitrax claims "the ultimate in
            locomotive lighting which create realistic looking lighting effects"
            3) Added a lot of capacitors (1000uF) for better running (like a big
            flywheel)
            4) To compensate for all the added weight in the tender I added
            tungsten powder mixed with glue to the engine in the front and back,
            just above the motor. There was quite a bit of space to add weight in
            this loco.
            5) Added pick up on the wheels that did not have any in the loco
            6) The DN142 decoder has 4 outputs one for the front light one for the
            back of the tender and I had two more outputs so I used one for the
            fire box and the other to the lamp under the tender. I am not sure if
            that is really a light in the real loco at the tender, but it looked
            like one.

            The fire box: I used two of the Minatronics tiny lamps .75mm dia which
            is really small, perfect for this application. To install this lamp I
            filed the grove that is in the side of the motor on both sides and
            glued them in the grove. I then painted the top portion of it red and
            the bottom black.

            The light in the tender was the most challenging to add. I drilled
            two holes one from the top and one from the side so they meet. I then
            used a fiber optic 1mm dia (big one) with a white LED painted with
            yellow so it looks like a incandescent lamp. I then painted the inside
            with silver and black. After tinkering with it a bit it looks like
            the light comes from the concave surface and there are no lamps or
            fiber optic visible.

            7) I added two engineers on either side of the loco and one side
            waving his arm. The engineer you see in the picture has his arm
            broken, I just noticed it and need to fix it.
            8) Also added a couple of thin fiber optic cables to the back of the
            loco and connected it to a Yellow LED.
            Easy way to make this is to bring the fiber optic cable close to the
            soldering Iron and it melts the tip so it forms like a cone shape at
            the tip. Then you drill a hole where the fiberoptic goes and you push
            the cable flush.

            The wire that you see going from the tender to the loco is a gauge 36
            ~38 magnet wire. You will need 6~7 going from the tender to the loco
            for converting them to DCC. The technique I use to keep these wires
            neat is to use thin teflon tubes (sleeves from a teflon wire) glue two
            on top of the motor and drill two holes in the base of the tender
            parallel to the tracks and insert the teflon tubes through them so it
            has a nice conduit to run these wires. The reason I do this is once
            when I had a short circuit in the motor the wires heated up and melted
            the plastic in the tender where the wires came out, but with teflon it
            will not melt and keep the tender safe in a head on collision.

            A tip for using fiber optic cables, do not stick it with CA (super
            glue) it eats the fiber.
            All this is a little time consuming but once you see the loco
            performance you will feel it is worth it. Imagine a steam loco
            crawling across a double cross switch and never stalling?.

            Also those of you using Relco can your loco crawl across double slip
            turnouts without stalling? Just want to compare my loco performance
            after all this work.
            Kim



            --- In z_scale@y..., jmac_han@h... wrote:
            > --- In z_scale@y..., kim@b... wrote:
            > > Folks,
            > > After many months of modifying my 88836 here is the result.
            >
            > And the result is astounding. Flickering firebox glow, slow speed
            > operation and rear tender lights (at least from what I saw in the
            hi-
            > res MPEG) all run from a DZX121 decoder I imagine. When can you
            > convert my locos? ;-)
            >
            > I'm curious to know what wires you used from the tender to the loco.
            > They look thin enough to be commutator windings but what would I
            know.
            >
            > GREAT work, Kim.
            >
            > Cheers,
            > Jeffrey MacHan
            > Chief Imagineer
            > Val Ease Central Railroad
          • Robert Allbritton
            Kim, Very, very well done. I am impressed! Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the capacitors? After the decoder? Best place would be in-line
            Message 5 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
            • 0 Attachment
              Kim,
              Very, very well done. I am impressed!

              Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the capacitors? After
              the decoder? Best place would be in-line with the decoder (let the decoder
              "see" the DCC signal, but have that full 1000uf to keep on functioning. That
              way you can have Back-EMF too)

              Best,
              -Rob

              -----Original Message-----
              From: kim@... [mailto:kim@...]
              Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 5:08 PM
              To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [z_scale] Re: Modified 88836


              Folks,
              Thanks for the complements. I had put in a few months of work
              in this loco I'll try to summarize all I can remember:
              1) I first started with adding tender pickup
              2) I used a DN142 Decoder which is full FX decoder. FX are the
              functions used for lighting that Digitrax claims "the ultimate in
              locomotive lighting which create realistic looking lighting effects"
              3) Added a lot of capacitors (1000uF) for better running (like a big
              flywheel)
              4) To compensate for all the added weight in the tender I added
              tungsten powder mixed with glue to the engine in the front and back,
              just above the motor. There was quite a bit of space to add weight in
              this loco.
              5) Added pick up on the wheels that did not have any in the loco
              6) The DN142 decoder has 4 outputs one for the front light one for the
              back of the tender and I had two more outputs so I used one for the
              fire box and the other to the lamp under the tender. I am not sure if
              that is really a light in the real loco at the tender, but it looked
              like one.

              The fire box: I used two of the Minatronics tiny lamps .75mm dia which
              is really small, perfect for this application. To install this lamp I
              filed the grove that is in the side of the motor on both sides and
              glued them in the grove. I then painted the top portion of it red and
              the bottom black.

              The light in the tender was the most challenging to add. I drilled
              two holes one from the top and one from the side so they meet. I then
              used a fiber optic 1mm dia (big one) with a white LED painted with
              yellow so it looks like a incandescent lamp. I then painted the inside
              with silver and black. After tinkering with it a bit it looks like
              the light comes from the concave surface and there are no lamps or
              fiber optic visible.

              7) I added two engineers on either side of the loco and one side
              waving his arm. The engineer you see in the picture has his arm
              broken, I just noticed it and need to fix it.
              8) Also added a couple of thin fiber optic cables to the back of the
              loco and connected it to a Yellow LED.
              Easy way to make this is to bring the fiber optic cable close to the
              soldering Iron and it melts the tip so it forms like a cone shape at
              the tip. Then you drill a hole where the fiberoptic goes and you push
              the cable flush.

              The wire that you see going from the tender to the loco is a gauge 36
              ~38 magnet wire. You will need 6~7 going from the tender to the loco
              for converting them to DCC. The technique I use to keep these wires
              neat is to use thin teflon tubes (sleeves from a teflon wire) glue two
              on top of the motor and drill two holes in the base of the tender
              parallel to the tracks and insert the teflon tubes through them so it
              has a nice conduit to run these wires. The reason I do this is once
              when I had a short circuit in the motor the wires heated up and melted
              the plastic in the tender where the wires came out, but with teflon it
              will not melt and keep the tender safe in a head on collision.

              A tip for using fiber optic cables, do not stick it with CA (super
              glue) it eats the fiber.
              All this is a little time consuming but once you see the loco
              performance you will feel it is worth it. Imagine a steam loco
              crawling across a double cross switch and never stalling?.

              Also those of you using Relco can your loco crawl across double slip
              turnouts without stalling? Just want to compare my loco performance
              after all this work.
              Kim



              --- In z_scale@y..., jmac_han@h... wrote:
              > --- In z_scale@y..., kim@b... wrote:
              > > Folks,
              > > After many months of modifying my 88836 here is the result.
              >
              > And the result is astounding. Flickering firebox glow, slow speed
              > operation and rear tender lights (at least from what I saw in the
              hi-
              > res MPEG) all run from a DZX121 decoder I imagine. When can you
              > convert my locos? ;-)
              >
              > I'm curious to know what wires you used from the tender to the loco.
              > They look thin enough to be commutator windings but what would I
              know.
              >
              > GREAT work, Kim.
              >
              > Cheers,
              > Jeffrey MacHan
              > Chief Imagineer
              > Val Ease Central Railroad



              "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


              Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            • kim@blueneptune.com
              Rob, To do this you have to remove the shrink wrap around the decoder. You will see four diodes (bridge rectifier) where two ends go to the track and the other
              Message 6 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
              • 0 Attachment
                Rob,
                To do this you have to remove the shrink wrap around the decoder.
                You will see four diodes (bridge rectifier) where two ends go to the
                track and the other two go to a zener diode (used to protect the
                decoder against voltage spikes). The side of the diode that has the
                black line (cathode) is the +. You can add the capacitor across the
                diode, make sure cathode of the diode goes to the + of the capacitor.
                I use size 'D' 100uF 16V SMD Tantalum Caps. This cap is the max uF for
                size and voltage available. One can add ~6 to 15 in the tender
                depending on the size.

                Initially when I converted to DCC the performance of my steams was
                poorer than DC control till I added the caps. Even a single 10uF cap
                makes a big difference. The 10uF SMD caps are small enough to add to
                diesel locos. I have added more than 200uF cap to the crocodile I
                converted.

                Kim


                --- In z_scale@y..., "Robert Allbritton" <robert@p...> wrote:
                > Kim,
                > Very, very well done. I am impressed!
                >
                > Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the capacitors?
                After
                > the decoder? Best place would be in-line with the decoder (let the
                decoder
                > "see" the DCC signal, but have that full 1000uf to keep on
                functioning. That
                > way you can have Back-EMF too)
                >
                > Best,
                > -Rob
              • ngntw@mtco.com
                Kim, Would it be possible for you to post a picture of this installation somewhere? I d like to try adding caps to a decoder, but I d like to see a pic of it
                Message 7 of 9 , Dec 4, 2001
                • 0 Attachment
                  Kim,
                  Would it be possible for you to post a picture of this installation
                  somewhere? I'd like to try adding caps to a decoder, but I'd like to see a pic
                  of it before cutting into the decoder.
                  Mike
                  Quoting kim@...:

                  > Rob,
                  > To do this you have to remove the shrink wrap around the decoder.
                  > You will see four diodes (bridge rectifier) where two ends go to the
                  > track and the other two go to a zener diode (used to protect the
                  > decoder against voltage spikes). The side of the diode that has the
                  > black line (cathode) is the +. You can add the capacitor across the
                  > diode, make sure cathode of the diode goes to the + of the capacitor.
                  > I use size 'D' 100uF 16V SMD Tantalum Caps. This cap is the max uF for
                  > size and voltage available. One can add ~6 to 15 in the tender
                  > depending on the size.
                  >
                  > Initially when I converted to DCC the performance of my steams was
                  > poorer than DC control till I added the caps. Even a single 10uF cap
                  > makes a big difference. The 10uF SMD caps are small enough to add to
                  > diesel locos. I have added more than 200uF cap to the crocodile I
                  > converted.
                  >
                  > Kim
                  >
                  >
                  > --- In z_scale@y..., "Robert Allbritton" <robert@p...> wrote:
                  > > Kim,
                  > > Very, very well done. I am impressed!
                  > >
                  > > Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the capacitors?
                  > After
                  > > the decoder? Best place would be in-line with the decoder (let the
                  > decoder
                  > > "see" the DCC signal, but have that full 1000uf to keep on
                  > functioning. That
                  > > way you can have Back-EMF too)
                  > >
                  > > Best,
                  > > -Rob
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
                  >
                  >
                  > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                  > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                • kimvellore
                  Mike, I have posted the image at http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Z_Scale_DCC/lst Kim ... installation ... see a pic ... decoder. ... the ... the ... the
                  Message 8 of 9 , Dec 4, 2001
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Mike,
                    I have posted the image at
                    http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Z_Scale_DCC/lst
                    Kim

                    --- In z_scale@y..., ngntw@m... wrote:
                    > Kim,
                    > Would it be possible for you to post a picture of this
                    installation
                    > somewhere? I'd like to try adding caps to a decoder, but I'd like to
                    see a pic
                    > of it before cutting into the decoder.
                    > Mike
                    > Quoting kim@b...:
                    >
                    > > Rob,
                    > > To do this you have to remove the shrink wrap around the
                    decoder.
                    > > You will see four diodes (bridge rectifier) where two ends go to
                    the
                    > > track and the other two go to a zener diode (used to protect the
                    > > decoder against voltage spikes). The side of the diode that has
                    the
                    > > black line (cathode) is the +. You can add the capacitor across
                    the
                    > > diode, make sure cathode of the diode goes to the + of the
                    capacitor.
                    > > I use size 'D' 100uF 16V SMD Tantalum Caps. This cap is the max uF
                    for
                    > > size and voltage available. One can add ~6 to 15 in the tender
                    > > depending on the size.
                    > >
                    > > Initially when I converted to DCC the performance of my steams
                    was
                    > > poorer than DC control till I added the caps. Even a single 10uF
                    cap
                    > > makes a big difference. The 10uF SMD caps are small enough to add
                    to
                    > > diesel locos. I have added more than 200uF cap to the crocodile I
                    > > converted.
                    > >
                    > > Kim
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > --- In z_scale@y..., "Robert Allbritton" <robert@p...> wrote:
                    > > > Kim,
                    > > > Very, very well done. I am impressed!
                    > > >
                    > > > Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the
                    capacitors?
                    > > After
                    > > > the decoder? Best place would be in-line with the decoder (let
                    the
                    > > decoder
                    > > > "see" the DCC signal, but have that full 1000uf to keep on
                    > > functioning. That
                    > > > way you can have Back-EMF too)
                    > > >
                    > > > Best,
                    > > > -Rob
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                    > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                  Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.