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Modified 88836

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  • kim@blueneptune.com
    Folks, After many months of modifying my 88836 here is the result. http://www.blueneptune.com/~kim/88836/88836-2.JPG
    Message 1 of 9 , Dec 2, 2001
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    • jcubbin@optonline.net
      Kim, This is really amazing work, could you post up some text describing exactly what was done? I can t stop watching the large video! Thanks John
      Message 2 of 9 , Dec 2, 2001
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        Kim,

        This is really amazing work, could you post up some text describing exactly what was done? I can't stop watching the large video!

        Thanks

        John
        http://www.ztrains.com
        Exploring Basic Z Scale Ideas
      • Sönke Löffler-von Gierke
        Well, I can see strange wires, and an engineer, and some light from the firebox. http://www.blueneptune.com/~kim/88836/88836-2.JPG Seems the light even shines
        Message 3 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
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          Well, I can see strange wires, and an engineer, and some light from
          the firebox. http://www.blueneptune.com/~kim/88836/88836-2.JPG
          Seems the light even shines when the engine is standing.
          http://www.blueneptune.com/~kim/88836/M88836-3.MPG
          And the blinking green diode beneath the tender doesn't look like
          standard, too.

          But: How is it done?

          Sönke

          --- In z_scale@y..., jcubbin@o... wrote:
          > Kim,
          >
          > This is really amazing work, could you post up some text describing
          exactly what was done? I can't stop watching the large video!
          >
          > Thanks
          >
          > John
          > http://www.ztrains.com
          > Exploring Basic Z Scale Ideas
        • jmac_han@hotmail.com
          ... And the result is astounding. Flickering firebox glow, slow speed operation and rear tender lights (at least from what I saw in the hi- res MPEG) all run
          Message 4 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
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            --- In z_scale@y..., kim@b... wrote:
            > Folks,
            > After many months of modifying my 88836 here is the result.

            And the result is astounding. Flickering firebox glow, slow speed
            operation and rear tender lights (at least from what I saw in the hi-
            res MPEG) all run from a DZX121 decoder I imagine. When can you
            convert my locos? ;-)

            I'm curious to know what wires you used from the tender to the loco.
            They look thin enough to be commutator windings but what would I know.

            GREAT work, Kim.

            Cheers,
            Jeffrey MacHan
            Chief Imagineer
            Val Ease Central Railroad
          • kim@blueneptune.com
            Folks, Thanks for the complements. I had put in a few months of work in this loco I ll try to summarize all I can remember: 1) I first started with adding
            Message 5 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
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              Folks,
              Thanks for the complements. I had put in a few months of work
              in this loco I'll try to summarize all I can remember:
              1) I first started with adding tender pickup
              2) I used a DN142 Decoder which is full FX decoder. FX are the
              functions used for lighting that Digitrax claims "the ultimate in
              locomotive lighting which create realistic looking lighting effects"
              3) Added a lot of capacitors (1000uF) for better running (like a big
              flywheel)
              4) To compensate for all the added weight in the tender I added
              tungsten powder mixed with glue to the engine in the front and back,
              just above the motor. There was quite a bit of space to add weight in
              this loco.
              5) Added pick up on the wheels that did not have any in the loco
              6) The DN142 decoder has 4 outputs one for the front light one for the
              back of the tender and I had two more outputs so I used one for the
              fire box and the other to the lamp under the tender. I am not sure if
              that is really a light in the real loco at the tender, but it looked
              like one.

              The fire box: I used two of the Minatronics tiny lamps .75mm dia which
              is really small, perfect for this application. To install this lamp I
              filed the grove that is in the side of the motor on both sides and
              glued them in the grove. I then painted the top portion of it red and
              the bottom black.

              The light in the tender was the most challenging to add. I drilled
              two holes one from the top and one from the side so they meet. I then
              used a fiber optic 1mm dia (big one) with a white LED painted with
              yellow so it looks like a incandescent lamp. I then painted the inside
              with silver and black. After tinkering with it a bit it looks like
              the light comes from the concave surface and there are no lamps or
              fiber optic visible.

              7) I added two engineers on either side of the loco and one side
              waving his arm. The engineer you see in the picture has his arm
              broken, I just noticed it and need to fix it.
              8) Also added a couple of thin fiber optic cables to the back of the
              loco and connected it to a Yellow LED.
              Easy way to make this is to bring the fiber optic cable close to the
              soldering Iron and it melts the tip so it forms like a cone shape at
              the tip. Then you drill a hole where the fiberoptic goes and you push
              the cable flush.

              The wire that you see going from the tender to the loco is a gauge 36
              ~38 magnet wire. You will need 6~7 going from the tender to the loco
              for converting them to DCC. The technique I use to keep these wires
              neat is to use thin teflon tubes (sleeves from a teflon wire) glue two
              on top of the motor and drill two holes in the base of the tender
              parallel to the tracks and insert the teflon tubes through them so it
              has a nice conduit to run these wires. The reason I do this is once
              when I had a short circuit in the motor the wires heated up and melted
              the plastic in the tender where the wires came out, but with teflon it
              will not melt and keep the tender safe in a head on collision.

              A tip for using fiber optic cables, do not stick it with CA (super
              glue) it eats the fiber.
              All this is a little time consuming but once you see the loco
              performance you will feel it is worth it. Imagine a steam loco
              crawling across a double cross switch and never stalling?.

              Also those of you using Relco can your loco crawl across double slip
              turnouts without stalling? Just want to compare my loco performance
              after all this work.
              Kim



              --- In z_scale@y..., jmac_han@h... wrote:
              > --- In z_scale@y..., kim@b... wrote:
              > > Folks,
              > > After many months of modifying my 88836 here is the result.
              >
              > And the result is astounding. Flickering firebox glow, slow speed
              > operation and rear tender lights (at least from what I saw in the
              hi-
              > res MPEG) all run from a DZX121 decoder I imagine. When can you
              > convert my locos? ;-)
              >
              > I'm curious to know what wires you used from the tender to the loco.
              > They look thin enough to be commutator windings but what would I
              know.
              >
              > GREAT work, Kim.
              >
              > Cheers,
              > Jeffrey MacHan
              > Chief Imagineer
              > Val Ease Central Railroad
            • Robert Allbritton
              Kim, Very, very well done. I am impressed! Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the capacitors? After the decoder? Best place would be in-line
              Message 6 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
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                Kim,
                Very, very well done. I am impressed!

                Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the capacitors? After
                the decoder? Best place would be in-line with the decoder (let the decoder
                "see" the DCC signal, but have that full 1000uf to keep on functioning. That
                way you can have Back-EMF too)

                Best,
                -Rob

                -----Original Message-----
                From: kim@... [mailto:kim@...]
                Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 5:08 PM
                To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [z_scale] Re: Modified 88836


                Folks,
                Thanks for the complements. I had put in a few months of work
                in this loco I'll try to summarize all I can remember:
                1) I first started with adding tender pickup
                2) I used a DN142 Decoder which is full FX decoder. FX are the
                functions used for lighting that Digitrax claims "the ultimate in
                locomotive lighting which create realistic looking lighting effects"
                3) Added a lot of capacitors (1000uF) for better running (like a big
                flywheel)
                4) To compensate for all the added weight in the tender I added
                tungsten powder mixed with glue to the engine in the front and back,
                just above the motor. There was quite a bit of space to add weight in
                this loco.
                5) Added pick up on the wheels that did not have any in the loco
                6) The DN142 decoder has 4 outputs one for the front light one for the
                back of the tender and I had two more outputs so I used one for the
                fire box and the other to the lamp under the tender. I am not sure if
                that is really a light in the real loco at the tender, but it looked
                like one.

                The fire box: I used two of the Minatronics tiny lamps .75mm dia which
                is really small, perfect for this application. To install this lamp I
                filed the grove that is in the side of the motor on both sides and
                glued them in the grove. I then painted the top portion of it red and
                the bottom black.

                The light in the tender was the most challenging to add. I drilled
                two holes one from the top and one from the side so they meet. I then
                used a fiber optic 1mm dia (big one) with a white LED painted with
                yellow so it looks like a incandescent lamp. I then painted the inside
                with silver and black. After tinkering with it a bit it looks like
                the light comes from the concave surface and there are no lamps or
                fiber optic visible.

                7) I added two engineers on either side of the loco and one side
                waving his arm. The engineer you see in the picture has his arm
                broken, I just noticed it and need to fix it.
                8) Also added a couple of thin fiber optic cables to the back of the
                loco and connected it to a Yellow LED.
                Easy way to make this is to bring the fiber optic cable close to the
                soldering Iron and it melts the tip so it forms like a cone shape at
                the tip. Then you drill a hole where the fiberoptic goes and you push
                the cable flush.

                The wire that you see going from the tender to the loco is a gauge 36
                ~38 magnet wire. You will need 6~7 going from the tender to the loco
                for converting them to DCC. The technique I use to keep these wires
                neat is to use thin teflon tubes (sleeves from a teflon wire) glue two
                on top of the motor and drill two holes in the base of the tender
                parallel to the tracks and insert the teflon tubes through them so it
                has a nice conduit to run these wires. The reason I do this is once
                when I had a short circuit in the motor the wires heated up and melted
                the plastic in the tender where the wires came out, but with teflon it
                will not melt and keep the tender safe in a head on collision.

                A tip for using fiber optic cables, do not stick it with CA (super
                glue) it eats the fiber.
                All this is a little time consuming but once you see the loco
                performance you will feel it is worth it. Imagine a steam loco
                crawling across a double cross switch and never stalling?.

                Also those of you using Relco can your loco crawl across double slip
                turnouts without stalling? Just want to compare my loco performance
                after all this work.
                Kim



                --- In z_scale@y..., jmac_han@h... wrote:
                > --- In z_scale@y..., kim@b... wrote:
                > > Folks,
                > > After many months of modifying my 88836 here is the result.
                >
                > And the result is astounding. Flickering firebox glow, slow speed
                > operation and rear tender lights (at least from what I saw in the
                hi-
                > res MPEG) all run from a DZX121 decoder I imagine. When can you
                > convert my locos? ;-)
                >
                > I'm curious to know what wires you used from the tender to the loco.
                > They look thin enough to be commutator windings but what would I
                know.
                >
                > GREAT work, Kim.
                >
                > Cheers,
                > Jeffrey MacHan
                > Chief Imagineer
                > Val Ease Central Railroad



                "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


                Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              • kim@blueneptune.com
                Rob, To do this you have to remove the shrink wrap around the decoder. You will see four diodes (bridge rectifier) where two ends go to the track and the other
                Message 7 of 9 , Dec 3, 2001
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                  Rob,
                  To do this you have to remove the shrink wrap around the decoder.
                  You will see four diodes (bridge rectifier) where two ends go to the
                  track and the other two go to a zener diode (used to protect the
                  decoder against voltage spikes). The side of the diode that has the
                  black line (cathode) is the +. You can add the capacitor across the
                  diode, make sure cathode of the diode goes to the + of the capacitor.
                  I use size 'D' 100uF 16V SMD Tantalum Caps. This cap is the max uF for
                  size and voltage available. One can add ~6 to 15 in the tender
                  depending on the size.

                  Initially when I converted to DCC the performance of my steams was
                  poorer than DC control till I added the caps. Even a single 10uF cap
                  makes a big difference. The 10uF SMD caps are small enough to add to
                  diesel locos. I have added more than 200uF cap to the crocodile I
                  converted.

                  Kim


                  --- In z_scale@y..., "Robert Allbritton" <robert@p...> wrote:
                  > Kim,
                  > Very, very well done. I am impressed!
                  >
                  > Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the capacitors?
                  After
                  > the decoder? Best place would be in-line with the decoder (let the
                  decoder
                  > "see" the DCC signal, but have that full 1000uf to keep on
                  functioning. That
                  > way you can have Back-EMF too)
                  >
                  > Best,
                  > -Rob
                • ngntw@mtco.com
                  Kim, Would it be possible for you to post a picture of this installation somewhere? I d like to try adding caps to a decoder, but I d like to see a pic of it
                  Message 8 of 9 , Dec 4, 2001
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                    Kim,
                    Would it be possible for you to post a picture of this installation
                    somewhere? I'd like to try adding caps to a decoder, but I'd like to see a pic
                    of it before cutting into the decoder.
                    Mike
                    Quoting kim@...:

                    > Rob,
                    > To do this you have to remove the shrink wrap around the decoder.
                    > You will see four diodes (bridge rectifier) where two ends go to the
                    > track and the other two go to a zener diode (used to protect the
                    > decoder against voltage spikes). The side of the diode that has the
                    > black line (cathode) is the +. You can add the capacitor across the
                    > diode, make sure cathode of the diode goes to the + of the capacitor.
                    > I use size 'D' 100uF 16V SMD Tantalum Caps. This cap is the max uF for
                    > size and voltage available. One can add ~6 to 15 in the tender
                    > depending on the size.
                    >
                    > Initially when I converted to DCC the performance of my steams was
                    > poorer than DC control till I added the caps. Even a single 10uF cap
                    > makes a big difference. The 10uF SMD caps are small enough to add to
                    > diesel locos. I have added more than 200uF cap to the crocodile I
                    > converted.
                    >
                    > Kim
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In z_scale@y..., "Robert Allbritton" <robert@p...> wrote:
                    > > Kim,
                    > > Very, very well done. I am impressed!
                    > >
                    > > Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the capacitors?
                    > After
                    > > the decoder? Best place would be in-line with the decoder (let the
                    > decoder
                    > > "see" the DCC signal, but have that full 1000uf to keep on
                    > functioning. That
                    > > way you can have Back-EMF too)
                    > >
                    > > Best,
                    > > -Rob
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
                    >
                    >
                    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                    > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                  • kimvellore
                    Mike, I have posted the image at http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Z_Scale_DCC/lst Kim ... installation ... see a pic ... decoder. ... the ... the ... the
                    Message 9 of 9 , Dec 4, 2001
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                      Mike,
                      I have posted the image at
                      http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Z_Scale_DCC/lst
                      Kim

                      --- In z_scale@y..., ngntw@m... wrote:
                      > Kim,
                      > Would it be possible for you to post a picture of this
                      installation
                      > somewhere? I'd like to try adding caps to a decoder, but I'd like to
                      see a pic
                      > of it before cutting into the decoder.
                      > Mike
                      > Quoting kim@b...:
                      >
                      > > Rob,
                      > > To do this you have to remove the shrink wrap around the
                      decoder.
                      > > You will see four diodes (bridge rectifier) where two ends go to
                      the
                      > > track and the other two go to a zener diode (used to protect the
                      > > decoder against voltage spikes). The side of the diode that has
                      the
                      > > black line (cathode) is the +. You can add the capacitor across
                      the
                      > > diode, make sure cathode of the diode goes to the + of the
                      capacitor.
                      > > I use size 'D' 100uF 16V SMD Tantalum Caps. This cap is the max uF
                      for
                      > > size and voltage available. One can add ~6 to 15 in the tender
                      > > depending on the size.
                      > >
                      > > Initially when I converted to DCC the performance of my steams
                      was
                      > > poorer than DC control till I added the caps. Even a single 10uF
                      cap
                      > > makes a big difference. The 10uF SMD caps are small enough to add
                      to
                      > > diesel locos. I have added more than 200uF cap to the crocodile I
                      > > converted.
                      > >
                      > > Kim
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > --- In z_scale@y..., "Robert Allbritton" <robert@p...> wrote:
                      > > > Kim,
                      > > > Very, very well done. I am impressed!
                      > > >
                      > > > Question: where in the electrical chain did you add the
                      capacitors?
                      > > After
                      > > > the decoder? Best place would be in-line with the decoder (let
                      the
                      > > decoder
                      > > > "see" the DCC signal, but have that full 1000uf to keep on
                      > > functioning. That
                      > > > way you can have Back-EMF too)
                      > > >
                      > > > Best,
                      > > > -Rob
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                      > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
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