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Re: [Z_Scale] soldering leads to Marklin contact tracks

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  • Kevin Brady
    Hi Marty,all, You can if you feel the connections might fail.How are your soldering skills? Best,Kev ... -- Dr. Dirt s Weathering Service [Non-text portions of
    Message 1 of 5 , Feb 7, 2013
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      Hi Marty,all,
      You can if you feel the connections might fail.How are
      your soldering skills?

      Best,Kev

      On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 10:35 AM, holdthefort57 <mmbless@...> wrote:

      > **
      >
      >
      > Looking for advice.. the Marklin contact tracks (like 8589) have 3 spring
      > clips for the electrical connections, which are blackened with
      > non-conductive paint. This doesn't seem to be a very robust connection
      > design; the wires can move in the clips and the contact area is very small.
      > Is it recommended to solder the wires to the clips?
      >
      > Marty
      >
      >
      >



      --
      Dr. Dirt's Weathering Service


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Garth
      If you are considering soldering and your wiring is below the layout you might want to consider soldering your wires to the bottom of rail joiners that are not
      Message 2 of 5 , Feb 7, 2013
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        If you are considering soldering and your wiring is below the layout you might want to consider soldering your wires to the bottom of rail joiners that are not already on a piece of track. then replace one on each rail instead of the ones already in place at a junction of two pieces of track, then drop the wires down through a hole to the bottom side of the layout. If you use two two different wire colours you can keep track of what is plus side and what is minus side of track power. unless you are good at soldering and have the right iron soldering to the rail directly or to rail joiners on the rail can lead to damaged track as excess heat can melt the plastic track spikes on sectional track. If you are going to solder wires to the Marklin connector track you might want to consider turning it over and soldering below the clips to hide your solder joints aqnd the wires, which can then be run below the layout or on top of the layout at your discretion.

        regards Garth
        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "holdthefort57" wrote:
        >
        > Looking for advice.. the Marklin contact tracks (like 8589) have 3 spring clips for the electrical connections, which are blackened with non-conductive paint. This doesn't seem to be a very robust connection design; the wires can move in the clips and the contact area is very small. Is it recommended to solder the wires to the clips?
        >
        > Marty
        >
      • holdthefort57
        Garth and Kev, Thanks for the responses! My soldering skills are a little rusty, but I ve been practicing on some scrap track and I ve gotten fairly good at
        Message 3 of 5 , Feb 7, 2013
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          Garth and Kev,

          Thanks for the responses!

          My soldering skills are a little rusty, but I've been practicing on some scrap track and I've gotten fairly good at soldering feeders to the sides of track without melting ties or to (loose) rail joiners.

          Flipping over the contract track, there is a nice spot to solder to on the single terminal side, in fact it looks like that whole terminal pad can be completely trimmed off, but the side with two terminals doesn't have much to work with on the bottom, just very small painted tabs. On the top side, I found that removing the upper half of the clips opens up a small oblong area that can be soldered to.

          Marty


          --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Garth" wrote:
          >
          > If you are considering soldering and your wiring is below the layout you might want to consider soldering your wires to the bottom of rail joiners that are not already on a piece of track. then replace one on each rail instead of the ones already in place at a junction of two pieces of track, then drop the wires down through a hole to the bottom side of the layout. If you use two two different wire colours you can keep track of what is plus side and what is minus side of track power. unless you are good at soldering and have the right iron soldering to the rail directly or to rail joiners on the rail can lead to damaged track as excess heat can melt the plastic track spikes on sectional track. If you are going to solder wires to the Marklin connector track you might want to consider turning it over and soldering below the clips to hide your solder joints aqnd the wires, which can then be run below the layout or on top of the layout at your discretion.
          >
          > regards Garth
          > --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "holdthefort57" wrote:
          > >
          > > Looking for advice.. the Marklin contact tracks (like 8589) have 3 spring clips for the electrical connections, which are blackened with non-conductive paint. This doesn't seem to be a very robust connection design; the wires can move in the clips and the contact area is very small. Is it recommended to solder the wires to the clips?
          > >
          > > Marty
          > >
          >
        • Kevin Brady
          Hi Marty,all, ... That is good advise to practice on scrape rail.I like to solder feeders under the rails and with a mico tip on the soldering iron it is easy
          Message 4 of 5 , Feb 8, 2013
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            Hi Marty,all,


            On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 6:04 PM, holdthefort57 <mmbless@...> wrote:

            > **
            >
            >
            > >My soldering skills are a little rusty, but I've been practicing on some
            > scrap track and I've gotten fairly good at soldering feeders to the sides
            > of track without melting ties or to (loose) rail joiners.<
            >

            That is good advise to practice on scrape rail.I like to solder feeders
            under the rails and with a mico tip on the soldering iron it is easy and if
            your unsure heat sinks can protect the plastic ties/sleepers.

            >Flipping over the contract track, there is a nice spot to solder to on the
            single terminal side, in fact it looks like that whole terminal pad can be
            completely trimmed off, but the side with two terminals doesn't have much
            to work with on the bottom, just very small painted tabs. On the top side,
            I found that removing the upper half of the clips opens up a small oblong
            area that can be soldered to. <

            >
            > Marty,what are you doing with the contact/circuit tracks?
            >

            Kev

            >
            >
            >
            > --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Garth" wrote:
            > >
            > > If you are considering soldering and your wiring is below the layout you
            > might want to consider soldering your wires to the bottom of rail joiners
            > that are not already on a piece of track. then replace one on each rail
            > instead of the ones already in place at a junction of two pieces of track,
            > then drop the wires down through a hole to the bottom side of the layout.
            > If you use two two different wire colours you can keep track of what is
            > plus side and what is minus side of track power. unless you are good at
            > soldering and have the right iron soldering to the rail directly or to rail
            > joiners on the rail can lead to damaged track as excess heat can melt the
            > plastic track spikes on sectional track. If you are going to solder wires
            > to the Marklin connector track you might want to consider turning it over
            > and soldering below the clips to hide your solder joints aqnd the wires,
            > which can then be run below the layout or on top of the layout at your
            > discretion.
            > >
            > > regards Garth
            > > --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "holdthefort57" wrote:
            > > >
            > > > Looking for advice.. the Marklin contact tracks (like 8589) have 3
            > spring clips for the electrical connections, which are blackened with
            > non-conductive paint. This doesn't seem to be a very robust connection
            > design; the wires can move in the clips and the contact area is very small.
            > Is it recommended to solder the wires to the clips?
            > > >
            > > > Marty
            > > >
            > >
            >
            >
            >



            --
            Dr. Dirt's Weathering Service


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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