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Re: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling

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  • John Mui
    Richard, to get MTL s couplers to work 95% of the time, you have to tune the couplers. I have to varify that the couplers swing correctly. If the car is facing
    Message 1 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
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      Richard, to get MTL's couplers to work 95% of the time, you have to tune the
      couplers. I have to varify that the couplers swing correctly. If the car is
      facing the rear of the locomotive, it should swing to the right. If it
      doesn't, you have to adjust the coupler pin. Also, on a grade, Uncouple the
      car on a flat and use automatic drop off. In fact, thats what I plan to do
      when I build a hump yard.

      John

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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    • de Champeaux Dominique
      ... Hi Garth I remember when you explained your clever idea. But in my case it s not a possible option as my track is on a surelevated section that doesn t
      Message 2 of 18 , Nov 5, 2009
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        >Dom
        >
        >There is a way to use a magnetic uncoupler from below the layout. I have >used this in Nn3 with uses the same track and it worked fine. I used a HO >under track uncoupler and drilled and taped some holes int he metal plate >to attach a hinge to the metal plate below the ceramic or rare earth >magnet. I put a block of wood the same thickness as the magnet and big >enough to fit under the hinge and attached it to the layout and then >attached the hinge to the spacer screwing through it into the bottom of >the table top.....

        Hi Garth I remember when you explained your clever idea. But in my case it's not a possible option as my track is on a surelevated section that doesn't leave enough room for this system. Furthermore I'd like to install my uncoupling devices on a crossover and due to command rods linking turnouts to undertable machines I'm affraid your option should be a little bit tricky....

        Dom
      • Malcolm Cleaveland
        Folks, In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know the
        Message 3 of 18 , Jan 16, 2012
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          Folks,

          In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
          in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
          the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
          Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
          approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
          question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
          easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.

          CheerZ,
          -- Malcolm Z
        • Lindley Ruddick
          As far as I know the old five fingered switcher (or in Z the three fingered switcher) is the only answer. :) Lindley ... [Non-text portions of this message
          Message 4 of 18 , Jan 16, 2012
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            As far as I know the old five fingered switcher (or in Z the three fingered switcher) is the only answer. :)
            Lindley


            On Jan 16, 2012, at 10:43 PM, Malcolm Cleaveland wrote:

            > Folks,
            >
            > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
            > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
            > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
            > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
            > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
            > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
            > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
            >
            > CheerZ,
            > -- Malcolm Z
            >
            >



            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Garth
            I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains couplers but I
            Message 5 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
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              I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2 use the same size of coupler.

              The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about .001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use. Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
              The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and smoothly.

              cheers Garth


              --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...> wrote:
              >
              > Folks,
              >
              > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
              > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
              > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
              > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
              > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
              > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
              > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
              >
              > CheerZ,
              > -- Malcolm Z
              >
            • Loren Snyder
              This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today. Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could make?
              Message 6 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
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                This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                make? Hmmmmm........




                -------Original Message-------

                From: Garth
                Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                use the same size of coupler.

                The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick
                which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                smoothly.

                cheers Garth



                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • John D. Duino
                Obviously you don t mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile tool. How much ya willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I ll sell
                Message 7 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
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                  Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I'll sell you two).


                  ----- Original Message -----
                  This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                  Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                  make? Hmmmmm........




                  -------Original Message-------

                  From: Garth
                  Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                  To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                  I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                  around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                  couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                  use the same size of coupler.

                  The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick
                  which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                  001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                  that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                  metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                  Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                  knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                  knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                  enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                  for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                  purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                  sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                  stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                  The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                  slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                  inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                  smoothly.

                  cheers Garth



                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                  ------------------------------------

                  Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                  Yahoo! Groups Links
                • Kevin Brady
                  Hi all, If someone can send me some photos,I ll give it a go,... Kev ... -- Dr. Dirt s Weathering Service [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  Message 8 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
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                    Hi all,
                    If someone can send me some photos,I'll give it a go,...

                    Kev

                    On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Loren Snyder <ljsnyder@...> wrote:

                    > **
                    >
                    >
                    > This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.
                    >
                    > Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                    > make? Hmmmmm........
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > -------Original Message-------
                    >
                    > From: Garth
                    > Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                    > To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                    > Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling
                    >
                    > I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                    > around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                    > couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                    > use the same size of coupler.
                    >
                    > The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir
                    > stick
                    > which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                    > 001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                    > that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                    > metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                    > Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                    > knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                    > knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                    > enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                    > for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                    > purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                    > sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                    > stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                    > The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                    > slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                    > inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                    > smoothly.
                    >
                    > cheers Garth
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    >
                    >
                    >



                    --
                    Dr. Dirt's Weathering Service


                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Loren Snyder
                    Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly. Some one
                    Message 9 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
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                      Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end
                      dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly.


                      Some one does need to reinvent this tool. Why don't you do it John and
                      become rich and famous......uh, I mean infamous.

                      Loren




                      -------Original Message-------

                      From: John D. Duino
                      Date: 01/17/12 09:38:41
                      To: z scale
                      Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                      Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile
                      tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I
                      ll sell you two).


                      ----- Original Message -----
                      This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                      Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                      make? Hmmmmm........




                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • John D. Duino
                      Thought I already was infamous...and only rich by the company I keep :) Me do it? Sure, why not...in all my free time :) Guess I ll have to get with Lajos to
                      Message 10 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
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                        Thought I already was infamous...and only rich by the company I keep :)

                        Me do it? Sure, why not...in all my free time :) Guess I'll have to get with Lajos to understand the phosphor bronze sourcing/etching business :) Hmm Rix Stix was kinda a cute name but the only thing I have to describe me which rhymes with Stix, er, well...we'll have to come up with a new name, I guess.

                        BTW, at the last show somebody referred to the '5-finger' (or 3- or 2- in our case) as the 0-5-0 switcher. I thought that was funny!


                        ----- Original Message -----
                        Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end
                        dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly.


                        Some one does need to reinvent this tool. Why don't you do it John and
                        become rich and famous......uh, I mean infamous.

                        Loren




                        -------Original Message-------

                        From: John D. Duino
                        Date: 01/17/12 09:38:41
                        To: z scale
                        Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                        Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile
                        tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I
                        ll sell you two).


                        ----- Original Message -----
                        This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                        Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                        make? Hmmmmm........




                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                        ------------------------------------

                        Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                        Yahoo! Groups Links
                      • ckuttner
                        I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in
                        Message 11 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
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                          I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in a small triangle of fairly stiff acetate and used it on my HO trains--I imagine one could use some of material used in blister-packing electronic gadgets to make one zuitable for Z.

                          --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <sjbazman49@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars.
                          >
                          >
                          > Jeff M
                          > SF Bay Area Z
                          >
                          > -----Original Message-----
                          > From: Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...>
                          > Sender: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                          > Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:43:51
                          > To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
                          > Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                          > Subject: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling
                          >
                          > Folks,
                          >
                          > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                          > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                          > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                          > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                          > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                          > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                          > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
                          >
                          > CheerZ,
                          > -- Malcolm Z
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > ------------------------------------
                          >
                          > Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                          > Yahoo! Groups Links
                          >
                        • de Champeaux Dominique
                          De : ckuttner À : z_scale@yahoogroups.com Envoyé le : Mercredi 18 Janvier 2012 6h35 Objet : [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling   ...    
                          Message 12 of 18 , Jan 18, 2012
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                            De : ckuttner <ckuttner@...>
                            À : z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                            Envoyé le : Mercredi 18 Janvier 2012 6h35
                            Objet : [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling


                             
                            >I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in a small >triangle of fairly stiff acetate and used it on my HO trains--I imagine one could use some of material used in blister-packing electronic gadgets to make one >zuitable for Z.
                             
                             
                            There's a fairly easier, cheaper and faster way to obtain such a tool: using a brand new toothpick. That's what I'm doing in locations where I need to uncouple and where I (unproperly) didn't set any magnets or electromagnets.
                             
                            Dom

                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          • Jeff
                            You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars. Jeff M SF Bay Area Z ... From: Malcolm
                            Message 13 of 18 , Jan 18, 2012
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                              You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars.


                              Jeff M
                              SF Bay Area Z

                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...>
                              Sender: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                              Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:43:51
                              To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
                              Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                              Subject: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling

                              Folks,

                              In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                              in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                              the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                              Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                              approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                              question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                              easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.

                              CheerZ,
                              -- Malcolm Z



                              ------------------------------------

                              Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                              Yahoo! Groups Links
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