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Re: Re : [Z_Scale] Uncoupling

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  • Garth
    Dom There is a way to use a magnetic uncoupler from below the layout. I have used this in Nn3 with uses the same track and it worked fine. I used a HO under
    Message 1 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
      Dom

      There is a way to use a magnetic uncoupler from below the layout. I have used this in Nn3 with uses the same track and it worked fine. I used a HO under track uncoupler and drilled and taped some holes int he metal plate to attach a hinge to the metal plate below the ceramic or rare earth magnet. I put a block of wood the same thickness as the magnet and big enough to fit under the hinge and attached it to the layout and then attached the hinge to the spacer screwing through it into the bottom of the table top. At other end of the plate I drilled and taped two holes for 2072 screws and made a wire loop to capture the end ball of a pull light chain then attached a small pulley and took the chain over the pulley and connected to a pull wire on the side of the layout with two screws and a loop for the end of the pull. In one position the magnet is pulled up under the track and table and works to uncouple like an in track magnet but it is out of site. when released the magnet swings down and hangs below the layout and no unwanted uncouplings occur.

      In my case the magnet is working under 1/16 thick plywood with cork roadbed ontop and MTL flex above that. I think if I were mounting it under 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood I would use a chisel and open up a hole in several layers of the plywood and install the magnet so in the up position it flush with the bottom of the table top. The magnet and plate are just over a 1/4 inch in height. On the surface of the layout I mark the area with 2 signposts at each end of the magnet thoug I suppose one in the center would also do.


      --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, de Champeaux Dominique <ddechamp71@...> wrote:
      >
      > MTL coupler/uncoupler system is no less and no more than a Z scale sample of Kadee system (furthermore MTL was initially a subside of Kadee). To this extent one should avoid using a magnetic uncoupler on a main line where a train could experience parasite uncouplings. Rather than that one should use magnets on spurs or sidings, and electromagnets on a main line. That's what I'm doing on my layout (still missing the electromagnets but I think I'll solve that in a while), and provided the uncouplers are set on straight track switching operations are very easy with them. One should only be aware that it's necessary to  apply accurate adjustment on every coupler with a coupler setting tool from Micro-Trains (height, trip pin setting) for best results.
      >  
      > Dom
      >
      > --- En date de : Mar 3.11.09, Richard <ark_42@...> a écrit :
      >
      >
      > De: Richard <ark_42@...>
      > Objet: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling
      > À: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
      > Date: Mardi 3 Novembre 2009, 13h05
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      >
      >
      > Hi,
      > I'm looking into automated uncoupling for a layout I'm considering. To this end I'm trying both MTL's and Marklin's offerings.
      > Whilst the Marklin version requires a timed pulse on the ramp, if correctly timed it works 100%. The MTL version seems to be a bit "hit and miss" as to whether the couplings actually separate.
      > So I'm looking here to see what other people have experienced with this.
      > One further clue - I'm uncoupling on a slope, the MTL version is much better on the level.
      >
      > Regards
      >
      > Richard
      >
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      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
    • John Mui
      Richard, to get MTL s couplers to work 95% of the time, you have to tune the couplers. I have to varify that the couplers swing correctly. If the car is facing
      Message 2 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
        Richard, to get MTL's couplers to work 95% of the time, you have to tune the
        couplers. I have to varify that the couplers swing correctly. If the car is
        facing the rear of the locomotive, it should swing to the right. If it
        doesn't, you have to adjust the coupler pin. Also, on a grade, Uncouple the
        car on a flat and use automatic drop off. In fact, thats what I plan to do
        when I build a hump yard.

        John

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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      • de Champeaux Dominique
        ... Hi Garth I remember when you explained your clever idea. But in my case it s not a possible option as my track is on a surelevated section that doesn t
        Message 3 of 18 , Nov 5, 2009
          >Dom
          >
          >There is a way to use a magnetic uncoupler from below the layout. I have >used this in Nn3 with uses the same track and it worked fine. I used a HO >under track uncoupler and drilled and taped some holes int he metal plate >to attach a hinge to the metal plate below the ceramic or rare earth >magnet. I put a block of wood the same thickness as the magnet and big >enough to fit under the hinge and attached it to the layout and then >attached the hinge to the spacer screwing through it into the bottom of >the table top.....

          Hi Garth I remember when you explained your clever idea. But in my case it's not a possible option as my track is on a surelevated section that doesn't leave enough room for this system. Furthermore I'd like to install my uncoupling devices on a crossover and due to command rods linking turnouts to undertable machines I'm affraid your option should be a little bit tricky....

          Dom
        • Malcolm Cleaveland
          Folks, In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know the
          Message 4 of 18 , Jan 16, 2012
            Folks,

            In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
            in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
            the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
            Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
            approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
            question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
            easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.

            CheerZ,
            -- Malcolm Z
          • Lindley Ruddick
            As far as I know the old five fingered switcher (or in Z the three fingered switcher) is the only answer. :) Lindley ... [Non-text portions of this message
            Message 5 of 18 , Jan 16, 2012
              As far as I know the old five fingered switcher (or in Z the three fingered switcher) is the only answer. :)
              Lindley


              On Jan 16, 2012, at 10:43 PM, Malcolm Cleaveland wrote:

              > Folks,
              >
              > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
              > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
              > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
              > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
              > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
              > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
              > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
              >
              > CheerZ,
              > -- Malcolm Z
              >
              >



              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Garth
              I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains couplers but I
              Message 6 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2 use the same size of coupler.

                The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about .001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use. Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and smoothly.

                cheers Garth


                --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...> wrote:
                >
                > Folks,
                >
                > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
                >
                > CheerZ,
                > -- Malcolm Z
                >
              • Loren Snyder
                This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today. Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could make?
                Message 7 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                  This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                  Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                  make? Hmmmmm........




                  -------Original Message-------

                  From: Garth
                  Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                  To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                  I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                  around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                  couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                  use the same size of coupler.

                  The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick
                  which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                  001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                  that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                  metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                  Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                  knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                  knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                  enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                  for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                  purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                  sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                  stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                  The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                  slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                  inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                  smoothly.

                  cheers Garth



                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • John D. Duino
                  Obviously you don t mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile tool. How much ya willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I ll sell
                  Message 8 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                    Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I'll sell you two).


                    ----- Original Message -----
                    This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                    Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                    make? Hmmmmm........




                    -------Original Message-------

                    From: Garth
                    Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                    To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                    I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                    around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                    couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                    use the same size of coupler.

                    The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick
                    which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                    001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                    that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                    metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                    Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                    knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                    knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                    enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                    for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                    purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                    sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                    stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                    The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                    slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                    inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                    smoothly.

                    cheers Garth



                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                    ------------------------------------

                    Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                    Yahoo! Groups Links
                  • Kevin Brady
                    Hi all, If someone can send me some photos,I ll give it a go,... Kev ... -- Dr. Dirt s Weathering Service [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    Message 9 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                      Hi all,
                      If someone can send me some photos,I'll give it a go,...

                      Kev

                      On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Loren Snyder <ljsnyder@...> wrote:

                      > **
                      >
                      >
                      > This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.
                      >
                      > Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                      > make? Hmmmmm........
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > -------Original Message-------
                      >
                      > From: Garth
                      > Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                      > To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                      > Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling
                      >
                      > I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                      > around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                      > couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                      > use the same size of coupler.
                      >
                      > The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir
                      > stick
                      > which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                      > 001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                      > that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                      > metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                      > Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                      > knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                      > knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                      > enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                      > for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                      > purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                      > sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                      > stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                      > The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                      > slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                      > inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                      > smoothly.
                      >
                      > cheers Garth
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      >
                      >
                      >



                      --
                      Dr. Dirt's Weathering Service


                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • Loren Snyder
                      Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly. Some one
                      Message 10 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                        Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end
                        dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly.


                        Some one does need to reinvent this tool. Why don't you do it John and
                        become rich and famous......uh, I mean infamous.

                        Loren




                        -------Original Message-------

                        From: John D. Duino
                        Date: 01/17/12 09:38:41
                        To: z scale
                        Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                        Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile
                        tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I
                        ll sell you two).


                        ----- Original Message -----
                        This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                        Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                        make? Hmmmmm........




                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • John D. Duino
                        Thought I already was infamous...and only rich by the company I keep :) Me do it? Sure, why not...in all my free time :) Guess I ll have to get with Lajos to
                        Message 11 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                          Thought I already was infamous...and only rich by the company I keep :)

                          Me do it? Sure, why not...in all my free time :) Guess I'll have to get with Lajos to understand the phosphor bronze sourcing/etching business :) Hmm Rix Stix was kinda a cute name but the only thing I have to describe me which rhymes with Stix, er, well...we'll have to come up with a new name, I guess.

                          BTW, at the last show somebody referred to the '5-finger' (or 3- or 2- in our case) as the 0-5-0 switcher. I thought that was funny!


                          ----- Original Message -----
                          Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end
                          dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly.


                          Some one does need to reinvent this tool. Why don't you do it John and
                          become rich and famous......uh, I mean infamous.

                          Loren




                          -------Original Message-------

                          From: John D. Duino
                          Date: 01/17/12 09:38:41
                          To: z scale
                          Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                          Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile
                          tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I
                          ll sell you two).


                          ----- Original Message -----
                          This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                          Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                          make? Hmmmmm........




                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                          ------------------------------------

                          Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                          Yahoo! Groups Links
                        • ckuttner
                          I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in
                          Message 12 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                            I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in a small triangle of fairly stiff acetate and used it on my HO trains--I imagine one could use some of material used in blister-packing electronic gadgets to make one zuitable for Z.

                            --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <sjbazman49@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars.
                            >
                            >
                            > Jeff M
                            > SF Bay Area Z
                            >
                            > -----Original Message-----
                            > From: Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...>
                            > Sender: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                            > Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:43:51
                            > To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
                            > Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                            > Subject: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling
                            >
                            > Folks,
                            >
                            > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                            > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                            > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                            > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                            > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                            > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                            > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
                            >
                            > CheerZ,
                            > -- Malcolm Z
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > ------------------------------------
                            >
                            > Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                            > Yahoo! Groups Links
                            >
                          • de Champeaux Dominique
                            De : ckuttner À : z_scale@yahoogroups.com Envoyé le : Mercredi 18 Janvier 2012 6h35 Objet : [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling   ...    
                            Message 13 of 18 , Jan 18, 2012
                              De : ckuttner <ckuttner@...>
                              À : z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                              Envoyé le : Mercredi 18 Janvier 2012 6h35
                              Objet : [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling


                               
                              >I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in a small >triangle of fairly stiff acetate and used it on my HO trains--I imagine one could use some of material used in blister-packing electronic gadgets to make one >zuitable for Z.
                               
                               
                              There's a fairly easier, cheaper and faster way to obtain such a tool: using a brand new toothpick. That's what I'm doing in locations where I need to uncouple and where I (unproperly) didn't set any magnets or electromagnets.
                               
                              Dom

                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • Jeff
                              You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars. Jeff M SF Bay Area Z ... From: Malcolm
                              Message 14 of 18 , Jan 18, 2012
                                You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars.


                                Jeff M
                                SF Bay Area Z

                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...>
                                Sender: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                                Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:43:51
                                To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
                                Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                                Subject: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling

                                Folks,

                                In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                                in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                                the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                                Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                                approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                                question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                                easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.

                                CheerZ,
                                -- Malcolm Z



                                ------------------------------------

                                Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                                Yahoo! Groups Links
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