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Uncoupling

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  • Richard
    Hi, I m looking into automated uncoupling for a layout I m considering. To this end I m trying both MTL s and Marklin s offerings. Whilst the Marklin version
    Message 1 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
      Hi,
      I'm looking into automated uncoupling for a layout I'm considering. To this end I'm trying both MTL's and Marklin's offerings.
      Whilst the Marklin version requires a timed pulse on the ramp, if correctly timed it works 100%. The MTL version seems to be a bit "hit and miss" as to whether the couplings actually separate.
      So I'm looking here to see what other people have experienced with this.
      One further clue - I'm uncoupling on a slope, the MTL version is much better on the level.


      Regards

      Richard
    • de Champeaux Dominique
      MTL coupler/uncoupler system is no less and no more than a Z scale sample of Kadee system (furthermore MTL was initially a subside of Kadee). To this extent
      Message 2 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
        MTL coupler/uncoupler system is no less and no more than a Z scale sample of Kadee system (furthermore MTL was initially a subside of Kadee). To this extent one should avoid using a magnetic uncoupler on a main line where a train could experience parasite uncouplings. Rather than that one should use magnets on spurs or sidings, and electromagnets on a main line. That's what I'm doing on my layout (still missing the electromagnets but I think I'll solve that in a while), and provided the uncouplers are set on straight track switching operations are very easy with them. One should only be aware that it's necessary to  apply accurate adjustment on every coupler with a coupler setting tool from Micro-Trains (height, trip pin setting) for best results.
         
        Dom

        --- En date de : Mar 3.11.09, Richard <ark_42@...> a écrit :


        De: Richard <ark_42@...>
        Objet: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling
        À: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Mardi 3 Novembre 2009, 13h05


         



        Hi,
        I'm looking into automated uncoupling for a layout I'm considering. To this end I'm trying both MTL's and Marklin's offerings.
        Whilst the Marklin version requires a timed pulse on the ramp, if correctly timed it works 100%. The MTL version seems to be a bit "hit and miss" as to whether the couplings actually separate.
        So I'm looking here to see what other people have experienced with this.
        One further clue - I'm uncoupling on a slope, the MTL version is much better on the level.

        Regards

        Richard



















        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Reynard Wellman
        Hi Richard, It sounds like you have already answered your own question. My personal preference is for the very fine appearance of MTL Kadee style couplers,
        Message 3 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
          Hi Richard,
          It sounds like you have already answered your own
          question. My personal preference is for the
          very fine appearance of MTL Kadee style couplers,
          therefor the "magnematic" method is one that I am
          already invested in.

          But you are correct; all of Marklin's electro-magnetic driven
          products are very well engineered and reliable.
          So the choice is between appearance vs operations.
          The MTL couplers do work but require experience
          with each section of ones layout to have fun with
          (sometimes cars uncouple at the most inconvenient times).

          I say "each to his own choice" and have fun!

          best regardZ,
          Reynard
          On Nov 3, 2009, at 4:05 AM, Richard wrote:

          > Hi,
          > I'm looking into automated uncoupling for a layout I'm considering.
          > To this end I'm trying both MTL's and Marklin's offerings.
          > Whilst the Marklin version requires a timed pulse on the ramp, if
          > correctly timed it works 100%. The MTL version seems to be a bit
          > "hit and miss" as to whether the couplings actually separate.
          > So I'm looking here to see what other people have experienced with
          > this.
          > One further clue - I'm uncoupling on a slope, the MTL version is
          > much better on the level.
          >
          > Regards
          >
          > Richard
          >
          >
          >



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Uwe Liermann
          Hello Dominique, ... there is a third system available on the market (sorry only in German):
          Message 4 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
            Hello Dominique,

            > one should use [...] electromagnets on a main line. That's what I'm
            > doing on my layout (still missing the electromagnets but I think
            > I'll solve that in a while)

            there is a third system available on the market (sorry only in German):

            http://www.system-joerger.de/shop/product_info.php?cPath=13&products_id=52

            This is a electromagnetic system, and the Maerklin couplers have to be
            modified by gluing a metal piece under the coupler. Those can also be
            bought from Jörger, but he also sells a jig to make those pieces from
            a paper staple.

            I haven't used this system myself yet, and especially not with MTL
            couplers, but I did read a post in the ZFE board that at least the MTL
            coupler is moved by the Jörger system. I also think that someone
            lately did write about testing the system with MTL couplers and had
            good results in one of the relevant boards.

            One detail to think about while using a electromagnetic system are the
            weights in the cars. If those are made from a magnetic metal, then
            the car itself might be influenced by the system. In this case the
            weight has to be changed to a nonmagnetic metal.

            --
            GreetingZ
            Uwe
          • Garth
            Dom There is a way to use a magnetic uncoupler from below the layout. I have used this in Nn3 with uses the same track and it worked fine. I used a HO under
            Message 5 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
              Dom

              There is a way to use a magnetic uncoupler from below the layout. I have used this in Nn3 with uses the same track and it worked fine. I used a HO under track uncoupler and drilled and taped some holes int he metal plate to attach a hinge to the metal plate below the ceramic or rare earth magnet. I put a block of wood the same thickness as the magnet and big enough to fit under the hinge and attached it to the layout and then attached the hinge to the spacer screwing through it into the bottom of the table top. At other end of the plate I drilled and taped two holes for 2072 screws and made a wire loop to capture the end ball of a pull light chain then attached a small pulley and took the chain over the pulley and connected to a pull wire on the side of the layout with two screws and a loop for the end of the pull. In one position the magnet is pulled up under the track and table and works to uncouple like an in track magnet but it is out of site. when released the magnet swings down and hangs below the layout and no unwanted uncouplings occur.

              In my case the magnet is working under 1/16 thick plywood with cork roadbed ontop and MTL flex above that. I think if I were mounting it under 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood I would use a chisel and open up a hole in several layers of the plywood and install the magnet so in the up position it flush with the bottom of the table top. The magnet and plate are just over a 1/4 inch in height. On the surface of the layout I mark the area with 2 signposts at each end of the magnet thoug I suppose one in the center would also do.


              --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, de Champeaux Dominique <ddechamp71@...> wrote:
              >
              > MTL coupler/uncoupler system is no less and no more than a Z scale sample of Kadee system (furthermore MTL was initially a subside of Kadee). To this extent one should avoid using a magnetic uncoupler on a main line where a train could experience parasite uncouplings. Rather than that one should use magnets on spurs or sidings, and electromagnets on a main line. That's what I'm doing on my layout (still missing the electromagnets but I think I'll solve that in a while), and provided the uncouplers are set on straight track switching operations are very easy with them. One should only be aware that it's necessary to  apply accurate adjustment on every coupler with a coupler setting tool from Micro-Trains (height, trip pin setting) for best results.
              >  
              > Dom
              >
              > --- En date de : Mar 3.11.09, Richard <ark_42@...> a écrit :
              >
              >
              > De: Richard <ark_42@...>
              > Objet: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling
              > À: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
              > Date: Mardi 3 Novembre 2009, 13h05
              >
              >
              >  
              >
              >
              >
              > Hi,
              > I'm looking into automated uncoupling for a layout I'm considering. To this end I'm trying both MTL's and Marklin's offerings.
              > Whilst the Marklin version requires a timed pulse on the ramp, if correctly timed it works 100%. The MTL version seems to be a bit "hit and miss" as to whether the couplings actually separate.
              > So I'm looking here to see what other people have experienced with this.
              > One further clue - I'm uncoupling on a slope, the MTL version is much better on the level.
              >
              > Regards
              >
              > Richard
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
            • John Mui
              Richard, to get MTL s couplers to work 95% of the time, you have to tune the couplers. I have to varify that the couplers swing correctly. If the car is facing
              Message 6 of 18 , Nov 3, 2009
                Richard, to get MTL's couplers to work 95% of the time, you have to tune the
                couplers. I have to varify that the couplers swing correctly. If the car is
                facing the rear of the locomotive, it should swing to the right. If it
                doesn't, you have to adjust the coupler pin. Also, on a grade, Uncouple the
                car on a flat and use automatic drop off. In fact, thats what I plan to do
                when I build a hump yard.

                John

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                ------------------------------------

                Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                Yahoo! Groups Links
              • de Champeaux Dominique
                ... Hi Garth I remember when you explained your clever idea. But in my case it s not a possible option as my track is on a surelevated section that doesn t
                Message 7 of 18 , Nov 5, 2009
                  >Dom
                  >
                  >There is a way to use a magnetic uncoupler from below the layout. I have >used this in Nn3 with uses the same track and it worked fine. I used a HO >under track uncoupler and drilled and taped some holes int he metal plate >to attach a hinge to the metal plate below the ceramic or rare earth >magnet. I put a block of wood the same thickness as the magnet and big >enough to fit under the hinge and attached it to the layout and then >attached the hinge to the spacer screwing through it into the bottom of >the table top.....

                  Hi Garth I remember when you explained your clever idea. But in my case it's not a possible option as my track is on a surelevated section that doesn't leave enough room for this system. Furthermore I'd like to install my uncoupling devices on a crossover and due to command rods linking turnouts to undertable machines I'm affraid your option should be a little bit tricky....

                  Dom
                • Malcolm Cleaveland
                  Folks, In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know the
                  Message 8 of 18 , Jan 16, 2012
                    Folks,

                    In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                    in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                    the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                    Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                    approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                    question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                    easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.

                    CheerZ,
                    -- Malcolm Z
                  • Lindley Ruddick
                    As far as I know the old five fingered switcher (or in Z the three fingered switcher) is the only answer. :) Lindley ... [Non-text portions of this message
                    Message 9 of 18 , Jan 16, 2012
                      As far as I know the old five fingered switcher (or in Z the three fingered switcher) is the only answer. :)
                      Lindley


                      On Jan 16, 2012, at 10:43 PM, Malcolm Cleaveland wrote:

                      > Folks,
                      >
                      > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                      > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                      > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                      > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                      > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                      > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                      > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
                      >
                      > CheerZ,
                      > -- Malcolm Z
                      >
                      >



                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • Garth
                      I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains couplers but I
                      Message 10 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                        I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2 use the same size of coupler.

                        The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about .001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use. Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                        The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and smoothly.

                        cheers Garth


                        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Folks,
                        >
                        > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                        > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                        > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                        > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                        > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                        > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                        > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
                        >
                        > CheerZ,
                        > -- Malcolm Z
                        >
                      • Loren Snyder
                        This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today. Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could make?
                        Message 11 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                          This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                          Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                          make? Hmmmmm........




                          -------Original Message-------

                          From: Garth
                          Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                          To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                          I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                          around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                          couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                          use the same size of coupler.

                          The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick
                          which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                          001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                          that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                          metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                          Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                          knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                          knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                          enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                          for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                          purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                          sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                          stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                          The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                          slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                          inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                          smoothly.

                          cheers Garth



                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • John D. Duino
                          Obviously you don t mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile tool. How much ya willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I ll sell
                          Message 12 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                            Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I'll sell you two).


                            ----- Original Message -----
                            This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                            Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                            make? Hmmmmm........




                            -------Original Message-------

                            From: Garth
                            Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                            To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                            Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                            I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                            around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                            couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                            use the same size of coupler.

                            The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir stick
                            which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                            001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                            that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                            metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                            Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                            knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                            knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                            enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                            for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                            purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                            sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                            stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                            The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                            slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                            inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                            smoothly.

                            cheers Garth



                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                            ------------------------------------

                            Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                            Yahoo! Groups Links
                          • Kevin Brady
                            Hi all, If someone can send me some photos,I ll give it a go,... Kev ... -- Dr. Dirt s Weathering Service [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            Message 13 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                              Hi all,
                              If someone can send me some photos,I'll give it a go,...

                              Kev

                              On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 11:25 AM, Loren Snyder <ljsnyder@...> wrote:

                              > **
                              >
                              >
                              > This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.
                              >
                              > Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                              > make? Hmmmmm........
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > -------Original Message-------
                              >
                              > From: Garth
                              > Date: 01/17/12 08:22:20
                              > To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                              > Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling
                              >
                              > I use a tool which I think came from Rix originally but I have not seen it
                              > around for years. It was originally sesigned for N scale Micro Trains
                              > couplers but I found it worked fine of Z as well as Nn3 of couse the last 2
                              > use the same size of coupler.
                              >
                              > The device was a piece of green plastic tubing like a fancy drink stir
                              > stick
                              > which was sliced at one end with a piece of phosphor bronze material about
                              > 001 think maybe .002 thick and the outline shape of a sharpened lead pencil
                              > that was slightly used. on the opposite end was a groove into which a small
                              > metal tab with a hole in it so you could hang the thing up when not in use.
                              > Anyway you position the phosphor bronze piece into gap between the fold
                              > knuckle part of both couplers and with slight twist it separates the two
                              > knuckles. I works better than a sharpened wooden stir stick as it is slim
                              > enough to easily slip between the two jaws. I lost the end at one point and
                              > for a short period of time used a similar piece of plastic straw until I
                              > purchased a piece of phosphor bronze shim stock and cut several from the
                              > sheet and glued them into razor saw slots on the end of some long bamboo
                              > stir sticks ( about 2.5 or 3 times the normal length of a tooth pick)
                              > The deal seems to be the material has to be thin enough and rigid enough to
                              > slip easily between the coupler's jaws and be about twice the width of the
                              > inside of the jaw so when you twist it opens the two knuckles easily and
                              > smoothly.
                              >
                              > cheers Garth
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              >
                              >
                              >



                              --
                              Dr. Dirt's Weathering Service


                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • Loren Snyder
                              Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly. Some one
                              Message 14 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                                Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end
                                dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly.


                                Some one does need to reinvent this tool. Why don't you do it John and
                                become rich and famous......uh, I mean infamous.

                                Loren




                                -------Original Message-------

                                From: John D. Duino
                                Date: 01/17/12 09:38:41
                                To: z scale
                                Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                                Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile
                                tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I
                                ll sell you two).


                                ----- Original Message -----
                                This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                                Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                                make? Hmmmmm........




                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              • John D. Duino
                                Thought I already was infamous...and only rich by the company I keep :) Me do it? Sure, why not...in all my free time :) Guess I ll have to get with Lajos to
                                Message 15 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                                  Thought I already was infamous...and only rich by the company I keep :)

                                  Me do it? Sure, why not...in all my free time :) Guess I'll have to get with Lajos to understand the phosphor bronze sourcing/etching business :) Hmm Rix Stix was kinda a cute name but the only thing I have to describe me which rhymes with Stix, er, well...we'll have to come up with a new name, I guess.

                                  BTW, at the last show somebody referred to the '5-finger' (or 3- or 2- in our case) as the 0-5-0 switcher. I thought that was funny!


                                  ----- Original Message -----
                                  Well, a million dollars does sound tempting, however I imagine the end
                                  dollar figure in my off shore account will continue to remain rather measly.


                                  Some one does need to reinvent this tool. Why don't you do it John and
                                  become rich and famous......uh, I mean infamous.

                                  Loren




                                  -------Original Message-------

                                  From: John D. Duino
                                  Date: 01/17/12 09:38:41
                                  To: z scale
                                  Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling

                                  Obviously you don't mean millions of DOLLARS, but it would be a worthwhile
                                  tool. How much ya' willing to pay for one? (tell me a million dollars and I
                                  ll sell you two).


                                  ----- Original Message -----
                                  This sounds like something that should be reinvented for us today.

                                  Anyone want to give it a try? Why just think of the millions you could
                                  make? Hmmmmm........




                                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                                  ------------------------------------

                                  Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                                  Yahoo! Groups Links
                                • ckuttner
                                  I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in
                                  Message 16 of 18 , Jan 17, 2012
                                    I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in a small triangle of fairly stiff acetate and used it on my HO trains--I imagine one could use some of material used in blister-packing electronic gadgets to make one zuitable for Z.

                                    --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <sjbazman49@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars.
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > Jeff M
                                    > SF Bay Area Z
                                    >
                                    > -----Original Message-----
                                    > From: Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...>
                                    > Sender: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                                    > Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:43:51
                                    > To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
                                    > Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                                    > Subject: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling
                                    >
                                    > Folks,
                                    >
                                    > In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                                    > in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                                    > the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                                    > Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                                    > approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                                    > question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                                    > easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.
                                    >
                                    > CheerZ,
                                    > -- Malcolm Z
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > ------------------------------------
                                    >
                                    > Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
                                    > Yahoo! Groups Links
                                    >
                                  • de Champeaux Dominique
                                    De : ckuttner À : z_scale@yahoogroups.com Envoyé le : Mercredi 18 Janvier 2012 6h35 Objet : [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling   ...    
                                    Message 17 of 18 , Jan 18, 2012
                                      De : ckuttner <ckuttner@...>
                                      À : z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                                      Envoyé le : Mercredi 18 Janvier 2012 6h35
                                      Objet : [Z_Scale] Re: Uncoupling


                                       
                                      >I read something similar in a tip in Model Railroading years ago. If I recall correctly, I used the shaft from a small paintbrush, cut a slit in it, and put in a small >triangle of fairly stiff acetate and used it on my HO trains--I imagine one could use some of material used in blister-packing electronic gadgets to make one >zuitable for Z.
                                       
                                       
                                      There's a fairly easier, cheaper and faster way to obtain such a tool: using a brand new toothpick. That's what I'm doing in locations where I need to uncouple and where I (unproperly) didn't set any magnets or electromagnets.
                                       
                                      Dom

                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    • Jeff
                                      You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars. Jeff M SF Bay Area Z ... From: Malcolm
                                      Message 18 of 18 , Jan 18, 2012
                                        You can use a very sharp (thin) pick to press into the coupler but its not perfect, especially with light cars.


                                        Jeff M
                                        SF Bay Area Z

                                        -----Original Message-----
                                        From: Malcolm Cleaveland <mcleavel@...>
                                        Sender: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                                        Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:43:51
                                        To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
                                        Reply-To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                                        Subject: [Z_Scale] Uncoupling

                                        Folks,

                                        In RR operations, coupling and uncoupling cars are critical operations
                                        in classification yards and when servicing trackside industries. I know
                                        the newest AZL couplers will couple when shoved against MTL, AZL or Full
                                        Throttle couplers (or at least most of the time). But what is the
                                        approved technique for uncoupling AZL or Full Throttle cars? I asked this
                                        question previously, but it was never answered. So I guess the answer is
                                        easy, and it's obvious to everyone except me.

                                        CheerZ,
                                        -- Malcolm Z



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