Re: Re : [Z_Scale] Car spacing, Dummy couplers, Kadee alternative
- What it's getting down to here is not so much how or where the coupler is mounted, but the sheer size of the knuckle. With the back of the knuckle set practically flush against the end of a freight car, the car spacing will still be off (at least for earlier freight cars without cushioned couplers).
At one time in the past I had created my own special "couplers" that had a pair of truly Z scale (albeit non-functional) couplers fabricated from a single piece of strip styrene. These coupling parts were screwed to one car (in such a way as to swivel) and then connected to the next car using a pin that fit in a hole on the coupler shank. The car spacing was dead-on, but of course the cars could not be coupled or uncoupled except by hand.
This is where Z scale hits the wall of functional practicality: one cannot achieve (at least in any practical sense) operational couplers that are scale in size. Thus we must choose: grossly-oversized couplers that work, or scale couplers that don't.
--- In email@example.com, Alan Cox <alan@...> wrote:
> > While closer coupling might be desireable for some of us, I do not think it makes a big difference to the viewing public or to the large number of us operating these little beauties.
> Different things to different people I guess. I don't think its a problem
> for "aeroplane view" layouts but in my view for side on or camera shots
> its quite noticable although nothing like as bad as the Z scale track.
> European N uses smarter coupler mounts so the couplings are scale gaps
> on the straight and open out on curves. That of course is doubly
> important due to the use in many cases of buffered stock.
- I am totally with you about how nasty the couplers look on Z scale equipment. Back when I started I would cut the back of the box off:
Then I would file a flat spot on the bolster and mount the coupler back against it:
The wheels would run on 195mm curves so I have to make two notches (shown in red) to give the wheels room.
Moving the couplers back on the boxcars was a bit of a pain because I had to drill the new mounting hole right between the two holes already there. Not much room. This is what it looks like when done:
Now I have about 20 pairs of Bowser trucks that I plan to use, but I'm not sure if I will suck in those couplers or not. Haven't had time to play yet.
- There was an interesting article in an old model railroader about linking 20foot ore jimmy cars together using bars rather than couplers so that they looked more realistic (it was in H.O i think, back in the 80s). I had planned to make a few modeled off an HO car next time i came accross one at one of the local stores, I have an N scale car i bought for the same reason, but there are are a few quite a few differences in both scales. and I am pretty sure I could mock up 2 or 3 till i one just right, then try casting it in resin, and do a couple of strings with bars... you could basically do a string number 3-12 units with 2 couplers .. also, you could potentially do them in groups of 6 or 12, and have it so you can replace the coupler adding in another draw bar.. then u have a double headder potential 24 ore car freight drag...
Oh the other idea was, wait until microtrains does a coupler for T scale, then we can do what N scalers are doing with Z couplers.. and steal them for our selves.. lol :D ((I am pretty sure you can get replacement T scale couplers, they look like the smaller standard N scale square ones, but smaller...
*not a spam for the site, but great picture of coupler*
scroll down towards the bottom of the page
part number 103-007
Coupler w/ Spring $1.90 Au (about 1.10 US)
Large picture T gauge coupler link...
Hope it helps..