Re: [z_scale] Re: Affixing track to layout
> I would think that the glue mixture would be applies at the pointBe reminded, there are many ways to affix track. A search of this list would
> where the rail sections join, and maybe a spot in the middle on longer
> sections like the #8505. Is that correct?
produce folks very satisfied with epoxy, double-sided-foam tape, contact
(wood) cement, nails, silicone rubber, rubber cement, and just about anything
else that holds track down.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with any of them. Some are very permanent,
some are not. "Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder." I prefer to
translate that to "Results are in the finger tips of the beholder." Not
everyone has the same skill. Or desired end result.
Having said that, he's our version, including the use of N scale cork cut
down to just under 0.5 inch (each half):
1. Mark the track centerline on the plywood top (in our case, its a tracing
of a full size CAD drawing)
2. Run a 1/8" bead of white glue, full strength, down each side of the
centerline, such that the bead will be in the middle of each piece of cork
(i.e., the beads will be 0.25 inch away from the centerline)
3. Press each half of the cork down on the bead, observing the centerline
4. Put cans of food on the cork for about an hour for the glue to dry
5. Lay the track down on the cork, centering the track on the break in the
6. Use push pins to hold the track in place (use lots of them)
7. Using a lever type spray bottle, wet down everything with cheap 70%
8. Flood the center of the track with 50/50 mix of white glue/water till it
just starts to cover the tie/sleeper tops.
9. Use a cheap brush to work it in a little (don't panic at this point, its
looks like a mess)
10. Respray the track with cheap alcohol. Note how the glue begins to
disappear and snuggle down.
11. Put cans of food on the track to press it down to the cork
12. After 15 minutes, if you are concerned there is a build up of glue
somewhere, dip the cheap brush in water, and work the glue around. Respray
13. Don't panic. It takes hours for the glue to be absorbed into the cork.
14. Next day. Remove the cans and push pins and you should not be able to
see any visible glue anywhere. In the unlikely event you do, spray water on
the spot, wait 15 minutes, work it in with a brush and respray with alcohol.
Don't forget to clean the track well with a bright-boy, etc.
15. Many months later. To remove the track to add a turnout, etc. just
flood the area between the rails with water. Wait 15 minutes. Apply slight
pressure side-to-side on the track and it will come up. Use water and
patience, not force, to release the track. Put the track in the top basket
of your dishwasher and wash it (no heat dry cycle, please). It will be in
"store" condition when it comes out.
Other things to consider:
NEVER glue down a turnout. Keep glues of any kind well away from them.
Cover the turnout with tape to insure accidental spills don't occur.
If you apply ballast with a watery 60/40 water/glue, the track is still
removable in the future. Just be reminded to re-push-pin the track while the
ballast operation is going on, since all that water will partially loosen the
Some brands of white glue are really thick. If you have one of those brands,
increase the water by 10% so the solution is watery and flows easily, never
When pulling track out, we consider cork "expendable" since its $9 (or less)
for 75 feet. Track is always recovered. Use a wood chisel to get the cork
up from the plywood.
Why not try this method on 6 inches of track on a piece of scrap wood first,
to work out the learning curve, and verify its the method you prefer?
Hope this helps.