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FW: Step by slow step

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  • Jim Sr Glass
    First, this message has been tested by MS Defender and AVG for virus s. How much of this email is applicable to Z scale DCC? Altho retired as an Engineer
    Message 1 of 1 , Mar 24, 2009
      First, this message has been tested by MS Defender and AVG for virus's.



      How much of this email is applicable to Z scale DCC? Altho retired as an Engineer (Software) for MS, I am not really knowledgeable as the other kind of Engineer (double E) :-). I do own all of the DCC books except the latest one reviewed in Scale Rails current issue, p 57 (See also p. 55, NMRA DCC Certified Decoders listing).

      JimGl Redmond, WA



      > Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 10:15:10 -0700
      > From: gurriesm@...
      > Subject: Re: Step by slow step
      > To: DCCSIG-L@...
      >
      > >Hi,
      > > I'm totally a beginner at model trains.
      > > I just finish my benchwork three weeks ago; I've laid my track to
      > >mark the center line so that I can put the roadbed down. But before I
      > lay
      > >the track on the roadbed I need to know how to determine where to put
      > the
      > >plastic rail joiner.
      >
      > The Figure 8 + oval creates 2 independent reversing sections. This
      > problem and solution is the same for DC and DCC and as such you can use
      > an Atlas #220 Controller for each reversing section.
      >
      > The Atlas #220 looks like this:
      >
      > http://e-hobbyland.com/controller.html
      >
      > and is available at almost any Hobby shop. Remember you will need 2 of
      > these.
      >
      > NOTE: If you go 100% DCC, the 2 Atlas #220's can be removed and replaced
      > with a DCC autoreverser. This devices automates the reverse loop such
      > that you can enter the track without any concern about polarity. But
      > these devices do NOT work for DC. So if you want to run DC and DCC, you
      > must stick with the manual solution....Atlas.
      >
      > One other recommendation. Run the layout on DC or DCC. Never use BOTH
      > at the same time. Otherwise you will have lots of problems as you
      > operate (shorting DC and DCC together at the track level) and risk
      > damaging your equipment at the same time.
      >
      > >I plan on using DCC on my layout when it comes to
      > >wiring.
      >
      > The wiring for DCC is the same as DC. There is nothing you need to do
      > that is special for the size of layout your describing.
      >
      > >If I could get an example using an oval layout with a figure 8 in
      > >the center this could possibly help me understand the placement of the
      > >plastic rail joiners.
      >
      > Place them on both rails at the beginning and end (right at the track
      > switch) of each crossing leg of the "X". The train must be shorter then
      > the length of the leg or the train will not run reliably through any
      > portion of the X.
      >
      > I am very sure there is a Atlas book on how to wire this type of layout.
      > It is a very common/popular 4x8 plywood design. Atlas sells a layout
      > book and your layout might be in there.
      >
      > http://www.prestigehobbies.com/Atlas-HO-Layout-Plan-Books-p-16854.html
      >
      > I would also even recommend you purchase this book.
      >
      > http://www.prestigehobbies.com/The-Complete-Atlas-Wiring-Book-p-16853.
      > html
      >
      > The Atlas wiring system is completely compatible with DCC.
      >
      > >Also I've learn that I should wire the track every 3
      > >feet using 20 AWG wire and the bus wire should be 14 AWG solid core.
      >
      > Without know the exact size and shape of the layout and the power level
      > of the booster your planning on using, it hard to say if that is
      > overkill or not. But there is nothing wrong with going overkill other
      > than its effect on your pocketbook.
      >
      > If you start with a Entry Level System DCC system (1-3Amp booster) and
      > your layout is the size of a
      >
      > 1) two car garage perimeter run, 14AWG is a good size.
      > 2) one car garage perimeter run, 16AWG is a good size.
      > 3) 4x8 layout or a bit larger central layout, 18-20AWG is a good size.
      >
      > With the price of wire, something to think about.
      >
      > You might find this useful for more information about DCC wiring.
      >
      > http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track.htm
      >
      > http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/dcc/presentations.html
      >
      > More specifically
      >
      > http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/dcc/2008/Wiring.pdf
      >
      > > What is the best use for turnout controls? Meaning should I use
      > >under the table controls, what kind?
      >
      > That is a personal preference thing. All methods have advantages and
      > disadvantages.
      >
      > >I'm using Atlas track code 83, how do I wire the turnout?
      >
      > No special wiring is required for Atlas switches.
      >
      > Hope this helps.
      >
      > Best Regards,
      >
      > Mark Gurries
      > Linear Technology
      > Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
      > ---------------------------------------------------------
      > Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:
      > http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/index.html
      > --------------------------------------------------------
      > Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)
      > http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/gurriesm/
      > ----------------------------------------------------------


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