Re: [Z_Scale] New to Z
- View SourceRob is right.......Z locos can run so slow that you get bored watching them
Regarding the Marklin 0-6-0s you need to run jumper wires from a car that is
hooked behind the loco permanently and wire the wheels for current pick up.
Then you have twice the electrical pickup and little chance of stalling.
Glen Chenier has done this on a 0-6-0 with good results.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] New to Z
In a message dated 5/1/08 1:47:21 PM, gevans@... writes:
> I am particularly concerned about slow speed operation & stalling
> out, operation through switches & such. Can they be run at realistic
> slow speeds? Have these issues improved over the years?
I think this is one of the real positives of modern Z scale. Companies like
American Z Line and Micro-Trains have worked hard to produce Z scale
locomotives that have a very good slow speed range. Running a realistic
completely possible and DCC is not required. The stand out locos for this
GP7s and SD70s from AZL and the GP9s and GP35s from MTL. Marklin locos can
achieve good slow speed operations, but these locos tend to be a bit light
which does cause them not to run as well at low speeds. As Jim mentioned,
like the 0-6-0s are fun, but tend to stall through turnouts at slow speeds.
Clean track is a must. Many of use the Gaugemaster rail cleaners. If you are
not running DCC, the Gaugemasters are a must, especially for slow speed
operations! Also, controllers like Zthek's Snail Speed controller are
realistic speeds in consideration (www.ztrackcenter.com).
From my personal experience, Z locos on average run exceptionally well. They
even run better than many N and HO locos! Z is about quality, and it shows
Ztrack Magazine Ltd.
6142 Northcliff Blvd.
Dublin, OH 43016
phone/fax: (614) 764-1703
Distributor American Z Line
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Z-scale: minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
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- View SourceI would like to thank everyone for the reply's to this post. I did check out the switching videos and it certainly seems plausible. I'm not too worried about the lack of steam, as I can always scratchbuild a boiler or just place it in 1955, where there are rtr options available. I do think that the USRA models and the AMC 2-8-4's would sell well in Z, they certainly have in other scales, causing Bachmann to make several in HO and N that are C&O specific, not just the name slapped on a generic body.
One thing if I can ask, can someone measure a AZL or MTL 2 bay offset hopper and let me know the length over the couplers? That will help me in my trackplanning tremendously.
C&O Piney Creek Branch, 1944
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Garth" <garth.a.hamilton@...> wrote:
> Welcome to Z scale and there are quite a few converts here like myself coming from N and NN3.
> despite several other messages about unlikely hood of anyone coming up with an American Mallet type engine in the near future. Marklin has made several in European outline so if you are prepared to make your own boiler shell and decorate it it is possible to make your own, but you have to be prepared to spend a few bucks for the donner and there is one mod required for long time running of these engines. I invested in a pewter boiler shell for another project and grandfathered it to my mallet. I started with an 0-8-8-0 and created a 2-8-8-2 with various parts from my project box and added a faulhaber 8mm motor with bell shaped flywheel over one end and Marklin worm on the other. As proof of concept here is my resulting engine with a log train.In American Z so fare there has been a Big Boy and a Challenger both in Brass for big budgets, I built my engine for about 25% of the cost of one of these brass engines. The next best thing is the Mikado's coming from AZL in March or April. I remember seeing another builders chassis for a big boy using Marklin Mikado chassis and motor in the tender that looked interesting. by going ahead 11 years in your time line the F& from Micro Trains is beast when it comes to pulling power and with the recent retooling of the A and B shells you can now have a powered B unit. so F7A-B-B-A would certainly provide the most pulling power of any 4 engines I know of currently. With a bit of work you can re power the F units with GP chassis and this would allow you to mix power between F& and GP7 while this would allow for easier adding of DCC to the engines 4 of these GP7's will not pull as much as 4 F7's look forward to seeing the new River Gorge in Z with long strings of hoppers.
> regards Garth
> enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSwYFfscKhQ
> --- In email@example.com, "joe vandenberg" <jitrainnut@> wrote:
> > Hi Group,
> > I am a longtime HO modeler focusing on the Chesapeake and Ohio's main and branch lines in the New River Gorge area of West Virginia. While I have built several layouts in HO and N, I was never really happy because I could not fit in everything that I wanted, and I really did not want to cut so much out. I focus on the WW2 era. I am an accomplished structure scratchbuilder, including in N, so that does not phase me. Toodling around on the 'net, I noticed that there is not much available in Z steam, but if I design and build a layout based on, say, 1955; then my options open up quite a bit. At that time, the C&O consisted mostly of GP-7, E-8, F-7, and rib side and offset side 2 and 3 bay hoppers. I've noticed that most if not all are available in Z ready to run. Most of the physical plant was the same in 1944 as it was in 1955, so backdating will be easy when that happens. I figure I'll draw up a plan, and if that works, I'll build a small display layout and see what I think. I have some questions, keeping in mind that my intention will be to backdate the layout as soon as USRA 2-6-6-2's become available, and a 2-6-6-6 would be awesome too! What should I use for a minimum radius? Average train length for passing sidings? In your experience, what maximum grade should I use? How about narrow guage? While I would do a lot of running, I also enjoy switching and building coal mines. Much as I hate to cut up a $200.00 engine, what is the feasibility of gutting a GP-7 and adding a sound decoder? Any comments you have would be appreciated.