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Re: [Z_Scale] fixing 0-8-8-0 Marklin Mallet.

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  • Loren Snyder
    Hi Garth, While I didn t try to carefully visualize every detail in your description of your repair procedures, (I don t have one of those beasts that is
    Message 1 of 6 , Nov 1, 2007
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      Hi Garth,

      While I didn't try to carefully visualize every detail in your description
      of your repair procedures, (I don't have one of those beasts that is acting
      up), I couldn't help but feel a sense of appreciation and pride in the
      detailed report you shared of your repair procedures. Your account gives
      the reader a concise analysis of what you did to repair the loco.

      In other words, I am impressed with the thought that you put forth in
      sharing your adventures in the "Mallet repair manual" It isn't easy to put
      your thoughts into words when writing instructions so that the reader will
      be able to visualize and understand what you are saying. Robert Ray once
      told me that writing instructions for a kit is the hardest part of the
      project.

      And to think that today there are folks out there who look at our tiny
      trains and think, "how cute".........never imagining the amount of detail,
      effort, and dedication that we Z modelers put forth to "make em run right"

      Me thinks that we Z scalers are a special bunch, whether the rest of the
      world knows it or not.

      Great job on the narrative....."equal to a case study report in the American
      medical journal"

      Good job Dr. Garth :O)

      Loren

      -------Original Message-------

      From: Garth Hamilton
      Date: 11/1/2007 7:31:22 AM
      To: Z_scale@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [Z_Scale] fixing 0-8-8-0 Marklin Mallet.

      Here is the text of the message that I placed on the Z-scale forum
      early last month.

      I do not know if anyone else out there has had problems with this
      engine (Marklin 0-8-8-0 Mallet) but Glenn and Sandy Stiska have a fix
      and gave me a clue as to the cure. They will do the work for a modest
      fee. At least modest in my estimation.

      The blind gear that is not pinned in the tower just has to be pinned
      in place. No quite so easy as it is said. It appears that over time
      with wear that the clearances open up enough to allow the blind gear
      to move laterally in the tower and when they do go it grabs the
      inside of the casting and looses contact with one of the axle gears
      and the whole thing jams up and stops. Classic symptom is side rods
      out of alinement.

      I used a piece of copper not brass tubing. The tubing was .0635
      inches in OD or 1.62 mm and I spun solder onto it to increase the OD
      to .0725 inches or 1.84mm after soldered a drill bit shank into the
      end of the tube. The drill bit was a slide fit into the tube and it
      was soldered in place before the spin soldering of the tube was done.
      The drill bit was .032 inches which is a No. 67 bit. When you look at
      your engine you will see on one side the hole is bigger than on the
      other. So I cut the drill shank so that .070 inches or 1.8 mm are
      showing and then pressed it into the hole. It was a tight fit going
      through the hole in the wheel wiper and I made sure the shaft did not
      protrude very far from the smaller hole on the other side of the
      tower. Once I was sure of the fit. I cut the tubing about .08 inches
      or 2.0 mm long and result is a stub shaft sticking out of a hub and
      the whole assembly is about .15 of an inch long. Once in place I used
      a drop of black nail varnish over the hub end only to hold it in the
      larger hole. This stub shaft prevents the blind gear in the tower
      from moving out of position laterally. The nail varnish will also
      prevent a short should it work its way out of position and touch the
      pickup strip. This brass tubing is a standard size from KS in my LHS.
      Total time to make two of these a fit them about 90 minutes. The
      tough part is spinning solder to increase the OD. This is a bit of an
      art and if you use a small amount of epoxy or locktite you can fix
      the tubing hub in place with out getting it to be a press fit. You
      could also fit the drill shank in place in the tubing using the same
      products. However when using these products there is a chance of
      contaminating the inside of the tower and freezing the gear(s) in
      place. To solder the drill shank into the brass tube you will need a
      special flux for use in soldering stainless steel to copper and
      brass. This hub goes into the chassis far enough to hold gear against
      far side of the tower while allowing it to rotate freely it is held
      upright and the drill shank becomes the axle for the blind gear and
      protrudes slightly from the smaller hole on the opposite side of the
      tower. The tower is just under .15 of an inch wide or 3.8mm.

      Here is some additional information on my make over.

      I used a K36 boiler shell and extended the firebox area a bit and
      used a K27 cab for my 2-8-8-2 Mallet and built my front porch from
      salvage from a Rivarossi Mallet pilot. My K27's will pull easily 20
      cars around my layout and the Mallet will pull 30 cars with the same
      ease. There is a picture of my beast under construction on my web
      site www.nn3.ca for those interested.

      Spin soldering - I chuck the pieces of tubing in a 3 jaw hand crank
      drill and clamp the hand drill in a vise with the crank on top and
      the tubing extending out horizontally. The tubing has to extend
      beyond the chuck by at least 3 inches for my 15 watt iron to do the
      job. I heat the end of the tubing and get it coated with solder and
      then start the crank and as the tub turns add more solder to it while
      keeping the heat to it. Then when it is flowing nicely I with draw
      the heat and solder and continue spinning and after the colour
      changes I let it sit for a bit and then dress it with a file while
      turning it. Then check to OD to see if it is close to what I want. I
      learned this trick in a silver smithing class.

      regards
      Garth






      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Glen Chenier
      ... gives ... ... Thank you Garth for sharing your skills. Garth s very detailed and informative article has been added to the wealth of information in the Z
      Message 2 of 6 , Nov 1, 2007
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        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Loren Snyder" <ljsnyder@...> wrote:
        ... I couldn't help but feel a sense of appreciation and pride in the
        > detailed report you shared of your repair procedures. Your account
        gives
        > the reader a concise analysis of what you did to repair the loco.
        ...

        Thank you Garth for sharing your skills. Garth's very detailed and
        informative article has been added to the wealth of information in
        the Z Scale enZyclopedia under Performance/Locomotives. For those
        not familiar with this feature of our Z_Scale list, scroll halfway
        down the home page and find the link between the home page photo and
        the most recent messages:

        "Got questions? Get answers!
        Z_Scale enZyclopedia
        (Everything you ever wanted to know about Z but didn't know where to
        look!)"

        And speaking of Home Page Photos, there are only 5 more left in the
        chute. I try to change the photo between once a week to twice a
        week, and soon more will be needed. To submit your favorite Z Scale
        photo just upload it to the Home Page Photo folder with title,
        description, name of owner, and credit for any items in the photo
        built by a fellow modeller. These photos will be captioned with the
        same information and placed on the Home Page in the chronological
        order in which they were posted.
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