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Re: fixing 0-8-8-0 Marklin Mallet.

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  • Garth Hamilton
    Hi Jeff I expect there was a plan for there to be a pin here but it was either missed on production set up or they could not fit it with the production
    Message 1 of 6 , Oct 2, 2007
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      Hi Jeff

      I expect there was a plan for there to be a pin here but it was
      either missed on production set up or they could not fit it with the
      production equipment. I do not recall there ever being a pin here and
      this means the gear which is steel floats in the slot between the
      nylon or plastic gear that connects with the worm and the two axle
      gears and over time the clearance increases to the point where the
      system jams up when the gear moves to far to one side and no longers
      contacts both axle gears. I expect with only casual running it does
      not happen any time soon but appears after a period of continual
      running and sitting between shows. Since Glenn and Sandy Stiska have
      a fix for it they have obviously seen the problem at least once and
      fixed it.

      regards
      Garth



      --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff BAZ-man" <sjbazman49@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > So was the pin missing originally? Why would this pin need to be
      > added in a standard production version?
      >
      > Jeff
      > SF Bay Area Z
      >
      > --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Garth Hamilton <garthah@> wrote:
      > >
      > > I do not know if anyone else out there has had problems with this
      > > engine but Glenn and Sandy Stiska have a fix and gave me a clue
      as
      > to
      > > the cure. They will do the work for a modest fee. At least modest
      > in
      > > my estimation.
      > >
      > > The blind gear that is not pinned in the tower just has to be
      > pinned
      > > in place. No quite so easy as it is said. I used a piece of
      copper
      > > not brass tubing. The tubing was .0635 inches in OD or 1.62 mm
      and
      > I
      > > spun solder onto it to increase the OD to .0725 inches or 1.84mm
      > and
      > > soldered a drill bit shank into the end of the tube. The drill
      bit
      > > was a slide fit into the tube and it was soldered in place
      before
      > > the spin soldering of the tube was done. The drill bit was .032
      > > inches which is a No. 67 bit. When you look at your engine you
      > will
      > > see on one side the hole is bigger than on the other. So I cut
      the
      > > drill shank so that .070 inches or 1.8 mm are showing and then
      > > pressed it into the hole. I was a tight fit going through the
      hole
      > in
      > > the wheel wiper and I made sure the shaft did not protrude very
      > far
      > > from the smaller hole on the other side of the tower. Once I was
      > sure
      > > of the fit. I cut the tubing about .08 inches or 2.0 mm long and
      > > result is a stub shaft sticking out of a hub and the whole
      > assembly
      > > is about .15 of an inch long. Once in place I used a drop of nail
      > > varnish over the hub end only to hold it in the larger hole. This
      > > stub shaft prevents the blind gear in the tower from moving out
      of
      > > position. The nail varnish will also prevent a short should it
      > work
      > > it way out of position. This brass tubing is a standard size from
      > KS
      > > in my LHS. Total time to make two of these a fit them about 90
      > > minutes. The tough part is spinning solder to increase the OD.
      > This
      > > is a bit of an art and if you use a small amount of epoxy or
      > locktite
      > > you can fix the tubing hub in place with out getting it to be a
      > press
      > > fit. You could also fit the drill shank in place in the tubing
      > using
      > > the same products. To solder the drill shank into the brass tube
      > you
      > > will need a special flux for use in soldering stainless steel to
      > > copper and brass. This hub goes into the chassis far enough to
      > hold
      > > gear against far side of the tower while allowing it to rotate
      > freely
      > > and the drill shank becomes the axle for the blind gear and
      > protrudes
      > > slightly from the smaller hole. The tower is just under .15 of an
      > > inch wide or 3.8mm.
      > >
      > > regards
      > > Garth
      > >
      >
    • Garth Hamilton
      Here is the text of the message that I placed on the Z-scale forum early last month. I do not know if anyone else out there has had problems with this engine
      Message 2 of 6 , Nov 1, 2007
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        Here is the text of the message that I placed on the Z-scale forum
        early last month.

        I do not know if anyone else out there has had problems with this
        engine (Marklin 0-8-8-0 Mallet) but Glenn and Sandy Stiska have a fix
        and gave me a clue as to the cure. They will do the work for a modest
        fee. At least modest in my estimation.

        The blind gear that is not pinned in the tower just has to be pinned
        in place. No quite so easy as it is said. It appears that over time
        with wear that the clearances open up enough to allow the blind gear
        to move laterally in the tower and when they do go it grabs the
        inside of the casting and looses contact with one of the axle gears
        and the whole thing jams up and stops. Classic symptom is side rods
        out of alinement.

        I used a piece of copper not brass tubing. The tubing was .0635
        inches in OD or 1.62 mm and I spun solder onto it to increase the OD
        to .0725 inches or 1.84mm after soldered a drill bit shank into the
        end of the tube. The drill bit was a slide fit into the tube and it
        was soldered in place before the spin soldering of the tube was done.
        The drill bit was .032 inches which is a No. 67 bit. When you look at
        your engine you will see on one side the hole is bigger than on the
        other. So I cut the drill shank so that .070 inches or 1.8 mm are
        showing and then pressed it into the hole. It was a tight fit going
        through the hole in the wheel wiper and I made sure the shaft did not
        protrude very far from the smaller hole on the other side of the
        tower. Once I was sure of the fit. I cut the tubing about .08 inches
        or 2.0 mm long and result is a stub shaft sticking out of a hub and
        the whole assembly is about .15 of an inch long. Once in place I used
        a drop of black nail varnish over the hub end only to hold it in the
        larger hole. This stub shaft prevents the blind gear in the tower
        from moving out of position laterally. The nail varnish will also
        prevent a short should it work its way out of position and touch the
        pickup strip. This brass tubing is a standard size from KS in my LHS.
        Total time to make two of these a fit them about 90 minutes. The
        tough part is spinning solder to increase the OD. This is a bit of an
        art and if you use a small amount of epoxy or locktite you can fix
        the tubing hub in place with out getting it to be a press fit. You
        could also fit the drill shank in place in the tubing using the same
        products. However when using these products there is a chance of
        contaminating the inside of the tower and freezing the gear(s) in
        place. To solder the drill shank into the brass tube you will need a
        special flux for use in soldering stainless steel to copper and
        brass. This hub goes into the chassis far enough to hold gear against
        far side of the tower while allowing it to rotate freely it is held
        upright and the drill shank becomes the axle for the blind gear and
        protrudes slightly from the smaller hole on the opposite side of the
        tower. The tower is just under .15 of an inch wide or 3.8mm.

        Here is some additional information on my make over.

        I used a K36 boiler shell and extended the firebox area a bit and
        used a K27 cab for my 2-8-8-2 Mallet and built my front porch from
        salvage from a Rivarossi Mallet pilot. My K27's will pull easily 20
        cars around my layout and the Mallet will pull 30 cars with the same
        ease. There is a picture of my beast under construction on my web
        site www.nn3.ca for those interested.

        Spin soldering - I chuck the pieces of tubing in a 3 jaw hand crank
        drill and clamp the hand drill in a vise with the crank on top and
        the tubing extending out horizontally. The tubing has to extend
        beyond the chuck by at least 3 inches for my 15 watt iron to do the
        job. I heat the end of the tubing and get it coated with solder and
        then start the crank and as the tub turns add more solder to it while
        keeping the heat to it. Then when it is flowing nicely I with draw
        the heat and solder and continue spinning and after the colour
        changes I let it sit for a bit and then dress it with a file while
        turning it. Then check to OD to see if it is close to what I want. I
        learned this trick in a silver smithing class.

        regards
        Garth
      • Loren Snyder
        Hi Garth, While I didn t try to carefully visualize every detail in your description of your repair procedures, (I don t have one of those beasts that is
        Message 3 of 6 , Nov 1, 2007
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          Hi Garth,

          While I didn't try to carefully visualize every detail in your description
          of your repair procedures, (I don't have one of those beasts that is acting
          up), I couldn't help but feel a sense of appreciation and pride in the
          detailed report you shared of your repair procedures. Your account gives
          the reader a concise analysis of what you did to repair the loco.

          In other words, I am impressed with the thought that you put forth in
          sharing your adventures in the "Mallet repair manual" It isn't easy to put
          your thoughts into words when writing instructions so that the reader will
          be able to visualize and understand what you are saying. Robert Ray once
          told me that writing instructions for a kit is the hardest part of the
          project.

          And to think that today there are folks out there who look at our tiny
          trains and think, "how cute".........never imagining the amount of detail,
          effort, and dedication that we Z modelers put forth to "make em run right"

          Me thinks that we Z scalers are a special bunch, whether the rest of the
          world knows it or not.

          Great job on the narrative....."equal to a case study report in the American
          medical journal"

          Good job Dr. Garth :O)

          Loren

          -------Original Message-------

          From: Garth Hamilton
          Date: 11/1/2007 7:31:22 AM
          To: Z_scale@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [Z_Scale] fixing 0-8-8-0 Marklin Mallet.

          Here is the text of the message that I placed on the Z-scale forum
          early last month.

          I do not know if anyone else out there has had problems with this
          engine (Marklin 0-8-8-0 Mallet) but Glenn and Sandy Stiska have a fix
          and gave me a clue as to the cure. They will do the work for a modest
          fee. At least modest in my estimation.

          The blind gear that is not pinned in the tower just has to be pinned
          in place. No quite so easy as it is said. It appears that over time
          with wear that the clearances open up enough to allow the blind gear
          to move laterally in the tower and when they do go it grabs the
          inside of the casting and looses contact with one of the axle gears
          and the whole thing jams up and stops. Classic symptom is side rods
          out of alinement.

          I used a piece of copper not brass tubing. The tubing was .0635
          inches in OD or 1.62 mm and I spun solder onto it to increase the OD
          to .0725 inches or 1.84mm after soldered a drill bit shank into the
          end of the tube. The drill bit was a slide fit into the tube and it
          was soldered in place before the spin soldering of the tube was done.
          The drill bit was .032 inches which is a No. 67 bit. When you look at
          your engine you will see on one side the hole is bigger than on the
          other. So I cut the drill shank so that .070 inches or 1.8 mm are
          showing and then pressed it into the hole. It was a tight fit going
          through the hole in the wheel wiper and I made sure the shaft did not
          protrude very far from the smaller hole on the other side of the
          tower. Once I was sure of the fit. I cut the tubing about .08 inches
          or 2.0 mm long and result is a stub shaft sticking out of a hub and
          the whole assembly is about .15 of an inch long. Once in place I used
          a drop of black nail varnish over the hub end only to hold it in the
          larger hole. This stub shaft prevents the blind gear in the tower
          from moving out of position laterally. The nail varnish will also
          prevent a short should it work its way out of position and touch the
          pickup strip. This brass tubing is a standard size from KS in my LHS.
          Total time to make two of these a fit them about 90 minutes. The
          tough part is spinning solder to increase the OD. This is a bit of an
          art and if you use a small amount of epoxy or locktite you can fix
          the tubing hub in place with out getting it to be a press fit. You
          could also fit the drill shank in place in the tubing using the same
          products. However when using these products there is a chance of
          contaminating the inside of the tower and freezing the gear(s) in
          place. To solder the drill shank into the brass tube you will need a
          special flux for use in soldering stainless steel to copper and
          brass. This hub goes into the chassis far enough to hold gear against
          far side of the tower while allowing it to rotate freely it is held
          upright and the drill shank becomes the axle for the blind gear and
          protrudes slightly from the smaller hole on the opposite side of the
          tower. The tower is just under .15 of an inch wide or 3.8mm.

          Here is some additional information on my make over.

          I used a K36 boiler shell and extended the firebox area a bit and
          used a K27 cab for my 2-8-8-2 Mallet and built my front porch from
          salvage from a Rivarossi Mallet pilot. My K27's will pull easily 20
          cars around my layout and the Mallet will pull 30 cars with the same
          ease. There is a picture of my beast under construction on my web
          site www.nn3.ca for those interested.

          Spin soldering - I chuck the pieces of tubing in a 3 jaw hand crank
          drill and clamp the hand drill in a vise with the crank on top and
          the tubing extending out horizontally. The tubing has to extend
          beyond the chuck by at least 3 inches for my 15 watt iron to do the
          job. I heat the end of the tubing and get it coated with solder and
          then start the crank and as the tub turns add more solder to it while
          keeping the heat to it. Then when it is flowing nicely I with draw
          the heat and solder and continue spinning and after the colour
          changes I let it sit for a bit and then dress it with a file while
          turning it. Then check to OD to see if it is close to what I want. I
          learned this trick in a silver smithing class.

          regards
          Garth






          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Glen Chenier
          ... gives ... ... Thank you Garth for sharing your skills. Garth s very detailed and informative article has been added to the wealth of information in the Z
          Message 4 of 6 , Nov 1, 2007
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            --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Loren Snyder" <ljsnyder@...> wrote:
            ... I couldn't help but feel a sense of appreciation and pride in the
            > detailed report you shared of your repair procedures. Your account
            gives
            > the reader a concise analysis of what you did to repair the loco.
            ...

            Thank you Garth for sharing your skills. Garth's very detailed and
            informative article has been added to the wealth of information in
            the Z Scale enZyclopedia under Performance/Locomotives. For those
            not familiar with this feature of our Z_Scale list, scroll halfway
            down the home page and find the link between the home page photo and
            the most recent messages:

            "Got questions? Get answers!
            Z_Scale enZyclopedia
            (Everything you ever wanted to know about Z but didn't know where to
            look!)"

            And speaking of Home Page Photos, there are only 5 more left in the
            chute. I try to change the photo between once a week to twice a
            week, and soon more will be needed. To submit your favorite Z Scale
            photo just upload it to the Home Page Photo folder with title,
            description, name of owner, and credit for any items in the photo
            built by a fellow modeller. These photos will be captioned with the
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