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My Krok is a Crock! or, Rock Around the Croc ...

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  • jvmcsea@aol.com
    I was able to slightly rock the Krock back and forth (1/8 ) and the lights were coming on and staying on. Now, after another good ultrasonic cleaning, no
    Message 1 of 3 , Feb 1, 2007
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      I was able to slightly rock the Krock back and forth (1/8") and the lights
      were coming on and staying on.

      Now, after another good ultrasonic cleaning, no lights -- no nothing.

      I'll put it back on the track tomorrow ... or the day after.

      John McCollum


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Michael Hilliard
      Hi John and All, Zorry for the late responce. Between the Amherst Railway Society Train show and the lose of Bill K., I ve been slow this week, more on those
      Message 2 of 3 , Feb 1, 2007
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        Hi John and All,

        Zorry for the late responce. Between the Amherst Railway Society Train show and the lose of Bill K., I've been slow this week, more on those topics at a another time.

        This topic has come up many times, the clasic Marklin frozen oil syndrom. This is how I deal with it. Reynard has some good input, but I'll elaborate upon his suggestions.

        I use a proffesional 1 1/2 quart ultrasonic cleaner with "heat". They go for about the price of a low end, price wize, Z locomotive. For most situations, I just fill it with 70% rubbing alcohol, and warm it to somewhere between luke-warm to steaming, but not steaming hot, this can be accomplished with a microwave for a home unit, however a longer run time may be needed using a home unit, the transducer (what produces the ultasonic waves) is smaller. When things are really stuck, I use hand/dishwashing solution as Renard sugggested, but I use 1 part soap to 3 parts demineralized water. I run it for about 5-10 min. Then I empty the ulrtasonic cleaner and clean the tank and put nothing but deminerallized water in, allow it to warm, and run it another 5-10 min. This removes "most" of the soap residue. Then I empty and clean the cleaner one last time, and fill it up with the 70% alcohol again, and run it as previously stated. Then I shake out the alcohol and place it on a
        cloth to dry.

        In summary, the soap disolves the oil, the water removes the soap, and the alcohol acts as a drying agent and is non-conductive. The alcohol also acts as it dries to helps remove any last residue of soap/oil and water via evaporation. I've used this techneque on all my own locomotives and many Tri State Z Scalers as well, without any less than, it runs better than new being said! This was developed from my years of jewelry experience cleaning gold, silver and stones of every kind. This is just adapted to meet the cleaning needs of our precious Z trains. What would you say if I made a custom gold ring for you and you tried it on and said wow, then took it off and have it leave a black ring around your finger? It could be a scam and it's brass, not gold. But more likely, the jewler didn't clean the ring well enough to remove all the polishing compounds. Everything runs better when properly cleaned.

        There are also 2 other possibilitys I can think of off hand to help your situation if cleaning dosen't work. The brushes to the motor have disloged due to the frozen oil syndrome. The other is the brushes are worn and need to be replaced because it was sold as new but isn't. One last thing I can think of is a dead coil in the motor, which means the motor is fried and needs to be replaced.

        Anyway, after all that, I'd be happy to help a fellow New Englander at no charge if I can. Contact me off list if interested. It's a bit of a long haul from Maine, but I could "probably" fix and demonstrate this Sat. here at our Tri State Z Scalers meet, it would make a good workshop/how to, and you could zee first hand how to do it yourself <smile>.

        I hope you get the trains running zoon, hope this helps, All Z Bezt,

        Michael Hilliard
        Wilton, CT USA

        jvmcsea@... wrote:
        I was able to slightly rock the Krock back and forth (1/8") and the lights
        were coming on and staying on.

        Now, after another good ultrasonic cleaning, no lights -- no nothing.

        I'll put it back on the track tomorrow ... or the day after.

        John McCollum

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • miked_r
        Having watched Michael first-hand, and having been the recipient of many of his cleanings, I can tell you, the man knows of what he speaks! And it would be
        Message 3 of 3 , Feb 1, 2007
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          Having watched Michael first-hand, and having been the recipient of
          many of his cleanings, I can tell you, the man knows of what he speaks!

          And it would be great if we had a Maniac (they still call people from
          Maine, Maniacs, no?? :-) ) come visit the Tri-State Z Scalers this
          Saturday. Sure it's a long ride, but it's worth it!

          Of course then we might have to rename ourselves...

          Okay, it's way to late for me to be posting.

          Have a good night all!

          Michael



          --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hilliard <mchwilton@...> wrote:
          >
          > Hi John and All,
          >
          > Zorry for the late responce. Between the Amherst Railway Society
          Train show and the lose of Bill K., I've been slow this week, more on
          those topics at a another time.
          >
          > This topic has come up many times, the clasic Marklin frozen oil
          syndrom. This is how I deal with it. Reynard has some good input, but
          I'll elaborate upon his suggestions.
          >
          > I use a proffesional 1 1/2 quart ultrasonic cleaner with "heat".
          They go for about the price of a low end, price wize, Z locomotive.
          For most situations, I just fill it with 70% rubbing alcohol, and warm
          it to somewhere between luke-warm to steaming, but not steaming hot,
          this can be accomplished with a microwave for a home unit, however a
          longer run time may be needed using a home unit, the transducer (what
          produces the ultasonic waves) is smaller. When things are really
          stuck, I use hand/dishwashing solution as Renard sugggested, but I use
          1 part soap to 3 parts demineralized water. I run it for about 5-10
          min. Then I empty the ulrtasonic cleaner and clean the tank and put
          nothing but deminerallized water in, allow it to warm, and run it
          another 5-10 min. This removes "most" of the soap residue. Then I
          empty and clean the cleaner one last time, and fill it up with the 70%
          alcohol again, and run it as previously stated. Then I shake out the
          alcohol and place it on a
          > cloth to dry.
          >
          > In summary, the soap disolves the oil, the water removes the soap,
          and the alcohol acts as a drying agent and is non-conductive. The
          alcohol also acts as it dries to helps remove any last residue of
          soap/oil and water via evaporation. I've used this techneque on all my
          own locomotives and many Tri State Z Scalers as well, without any less
          than, it runs better than new being said! This was developed from my
          years of jewelry experience cleaning gold, silver and stones of every
          kind. This is just adapted to meet the cleaning needs of our precious
          Z trains. What would you say if I made a custom gold ring for you and
          you tried it on and said wow, then took it off and have it leave a
          black ring around your finger? It could be a scam and it's brass, not
          gold. But more likely, the jewler didn't clean the ring well enough to
          remove all the polishing compounds. Everything runs better when
          properly cleaned.
          >
          > There are also 2 other possibilitys I can think of off hand to
          help your situation if cleaning dosen't work. The brushes to the motor
          have disloged due to the frozen oil syndrome. The other is the brushes
          are worn and need to be replaced because it was sold as new but isn't.
          One last thing I can think of is a dead coil in the motor, which means
          the motor is fried and needs to be replaced.
          >
          > Anyway, after all that, I'd be happy to help a fellow New
          Englander at no charge if I can. Contact me off list if interested.
          It's a bit of a long haul from Maine, but I could "probably" fix and
          demonstrate this Sat. here at our Tri State Z Scalers meet, it would
          make a good workshop/how to, and you could zee first hand how to do it
          yourself <smile>.
          >
          > I hope you get the trains running zoon, hope this helps, All Z Bezt,
          >
          > Michael Hilliard
          > Wilton, CT USA
          >
          > jvmcsea@... wrote:
          > I was able to slightly rock the Krock back and forth
          (1/8") and the lights
          > were coming on and staying on.
          >
          > Now, after another good ultrasonic cleaning, no lights -- no nothing.
          >
          > I'll put it back on the track tomorrow ... or the day after.
          >
          > John McCollum
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
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