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Re: Dirty talk,was: Ground Color and Cover Material (soaked with alcohol)

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  • KEVIN BRADY
    Hi Wendy,all, I have no problem with it. Mine are NOT original ideas! Good luck and don t drink and drive,...trains! ;-) Dr Dirt. ... From: Wendy Harlow To:
    Message 1 of 1 , Sep 5, 2006
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      Hi Wendy,all,
      I have no problem with it. Mine are NOT original ideas! Good luck and don't drink and drive,...trains! ;-)

      Dr Dirt.


      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Wendy Harlow
      To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 9:31 AM
      Subject: RE: Fw: Re: [Z_Scale] Ground Color and Cover Material (soaked with alcohol)


      Hi everyone -

      I second Michael's suggestion about Apple Barrel paints. They're
      inexpensive, and they dry to a slightly chalky, matte finish, unlike some
      others that dry shiny.

      A question: Would you all mind terribly if I quote you for a scenery article
      I'm writing for our regional NMRA newsletter/magazine? It was entirely
      inspired by all the "dirty" talk, see.

      ~Wendy Harlow

      _____

      From: z_scale@yahoogroups.com [mailto:z_scale@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
      Michael Hilliard
      Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 6:42 PM
      To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: Fw: Re: [Z_Scale] Ground Color and Cover Material (soaked with
      alcohol)

      Hi All and Dr. Dirt,

      First about paint, remember Walmart sells 2 oz acrlic paints in a spectrum
      of colors for only 44 cents a bottle, sold under the Apple Barrel Colors
      name in the craft dept. Larger bottles also available. I swear security has
      watched me as I picked out colors, as I must have looked very strange
      sitting on the floor while doing this (my local Walmart has these paints
      near the floor, sitting down takes the strain off my back).

      As for "dirt" from mother nature, here's a tip from the horticulture
      industry that you and your spouse, I hope, will appreciate. After you dig
      and sift your dirt "outdoors", Before bringing it indoors, wash your hands
      and your choise of scoop and get a cheap disposible aluminum pan and foil.
      While outdoors, fill the pan with your dirt (with clean hands) and cover
      with foil. Now preheat your oven to 400 degrees and put your dirt in the
      oven for 30-120 min. depending on how much dirt you're processing, poke
      holes in foil after 5 min. to vent.

      Why go through this added process? Obviously to steralize the dirt just like
      potting soil is. Furthermore, even if you're not worried about bateria,
      etc., even after the finest siffting, you could be bringing into your home
      and onto your layout micro sized insect eggs that can then hatch on your
      layout/module/entire home. Personally, I'd rather save the fumigation
      process after bringing un-sterle dirt/soil into my home. The disposible
      aluminum pan and foil suggestion is so your spouse hopefully doesn't
      complain about putting dirt in her pans <smile>. Remember to keep you hands
      washed to for best results, with the spouse.

      I think most of your questions were answered otherwise John B. Since last I
      knew you're residing in Germany, feel free to contact me off-list if you'd
      like some authentic northeast U.S.A. dirt, just pay shipping to Germany.
      Since it would be sterile, there's no agricultral shipping concerns.
      Everyone else, you know how to do it yourself now with everyone's
      suggestions.

      I'm glad this topic came up at this time, I usually think about using dirt
      for scenry material after the ground is frozen here and I don't feel like
      getting out a ice pick to get some "Dirt", literally. Hope this helps,

      Michael Hilliard
      Wilton, CT USA
      (New England)

      Loren Snyder <ljsnyder@charter. <mailto:ljsnyder%40charter.net> net> wrote:

      Jeffrey,

      Thanks for the tips on getting "earthy". Now I am going to have to stop
      along the highway up near Salem and get me some of that red earth and go to
      it. Hope the state police don't think I am pilfering any of Oregon's
      natural resources if they stop to inquire......"honest officer, you mix this
      with alcohol and it goes down great".........hmmmmmm..............

      Do appreciate the info. Hope you are having a great labor day, or do you
      take a day off to rest up like we do down here? Only 2 more hours until
      BBQ time at my nephew's.......yum, yum!!

      Old enough to both dribble and drool,
      Loren

      -------Original Message-------

      From: Jeffrey MacHan
      Date: 09/04/06 12:41:06
      To: z_scale@yahoogroups <mailto:z_scale%40yahoogroups.com> .com
      Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Ground Color and Cover Material (soaked with alcohol)

      Hi Loren,

      Latex paint is rather thick, fies quickly and forms a film on the
      surface. That is why it is important to add dirt or scenery foam
      while the paint is still tacky. If the paint is runny, then you put
      too much paint on the surface. NOTE: a helpful trick to help the dirt
      and foam settle into the paint is to mist the area with rubbing
      alcohol (after appying the ground foam or dirt) so that the surface
      tension is broken by the alcohol. (no jokes about playing Misty for me!).

      I have had great success applying foliage clusters and small clumps
      (in the role of bushes and small shrubs) by pinching off small clumps
      from the big clumps and placing them in "natural" settings. I then
      wet the clumps with rubbing alcohol, using a needle point applicator,
      and then dribble dilute craft glue over the wet clumps (I said dribble
      not drool, not quite that old, yet!). The glue settles through the
      shrubs and bushes right to the base. When dry, the clumps are
      resistant to breakage but still flexible and hold up really well to
      rough handling, like on modules or portable layouts.

      Hope this helps,
      Jeffrey

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