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Re: Weathering wood box car

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  • Russ Meier
    Hi Tom, It s a 40 double-sheathed wood box car. The model is plastic, of course, but the prototype was wood. It was built in 1901! Russ Meier Milwaukee, WI
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 2, 2006
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      Hi Tom,

      It's a 40' double-sheathed wood box car. The model is plastic, of course, but the
      prototype was wood. It was built in 1901!

      Russ Meier
      Milwaukee, WI
      MILW, UP, and CP in Z.

      --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Tom Fisher <tfisher10@...> wrote:
      >
      > Are you saying that this car is made of wood or are
      > you saying that this is a plastic model of a prototype
      > that was made of wood?
      >
      > --- Russ Meier <agentink_and_zfan@...> wrote:
      >
      > > Hello fellow Z-sters,
      > >
      > > Well, that lovely wife of mine has done it again --
      > > she went out and found a place in
      > > Milwaukee that has LOTS of older Microtrains cars.
      > > She picked up a year 2000 CP 40'
      > > wood box car for me yesterday. It's number 19442.
      > > A quick scan of the unofficial
      > > microtrains release report (UMTRR) shows it was a
      > > March 2000 release. It is clearly brand
      > > new -- in the original box with original packing,
      > > and no signs of wear/tear/or even use.
      > >
      > > I thought it was great that she thought of getting
      > > me something train-related "just
      > > because". Anyway, here's my question -- I've never
      > > had a wood boxcar before. How do
      > > you weather wood? Any thoughts? I would want it to
      > > be quite old because I'll plan on
      > > pulling it around with the GEEP. I realize that
      > > this car is steam era -- but what the hey --
      > > it's MY train! The color is boxcar red with white
      > > lettering. I'm looking for suggestions/
      > > ideas for weathering with and without an airbrush.
      > >
      > > Grafitti of course, but what else on wood...?
      > >
      > >
      > > Russ Meier
      > > Milwaukee, WI
      > > MILW, UP, and CP in Z.
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
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    • Lionel Gazeau
      Russ Apply a VERY thin wash of grimy black, this will bring out the details and each board will be visible. I use acrylics. this might be all you need. If you
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 2, 2006
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        Russ

        Apply a VERY thin wash of grimy black, this will bring out the details
        and each board will be visible. I use acrylics. this might be all you
        need.

        If you want you can first take a boxcar red or a paint that is close
        to the original color and add a little bit of white or yellow to make
        it look like faded paint, dry brush the car with that, especially the
        bottom portion, then a thin wash of grimy black.

        Apply rust to the metal parts including the trucks but not the
        journals or wheels which would be oily greasy black.

        You'll find several examples of car weathering in my website including
        some nicely done cars by Robert Ray. I am also planning articles for
        Ztrack on just this subject.

        Lionel

        http://theotherlionel.com
      • Russ Meier
        Lionel, Out of curiosity -- what wash ratio do you use for your paints? And do you use alcohol or water to dilute? Russ Meier Milwaukee, WI MILW, UP, and CP
        Message 3 of 6 , Jun 2, 2006
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          Lionel,

          Out of curiosity -- what wash ratio do you use for your paints? And do you use alcohol or
          water to dilute?

          Russ Meier
          Milwaukee, WI
          MILW, UP, and CP in Z.


          --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Lionel Gazeau" <zeelionel@...> wrote:
          >
          > Russ
          >
          > Apply a VERY thin wash of grimy black, this will bring out the details
          > and each board will be visible. I use acrylics. this might be all you
          > need.
          >
          > If you want you can first take a boxcar red or a paint that is close
          > to the original color and add a little bit of white or yellow to make
          > it look like faded paint, dry brush the car with that, especially the
          > bottom portion, then a thin wash of grimy black.
          >
          > Apply rust to the metal parts including the trucks but not the
          > journals or wheels which would be oily greasy black.
          >
          > You'll find several examples of car weathering in my website including
          > some nicely done cars by Robert Ray. I am also planning articles for
          > Ztrack on just this subject.
          >
          > Lionel
          >
          > http://theotherlionel.com
          >
        • Lionel Gazeau
          Russ My off-line email should have answered that but for the benefit of others: For a wash I use one drop of paint to six drops of water to which I add a tiny
          Message 4 of 6 , Jun 2, 2006
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            Russ

            My off-line email should have answered that but for the benefit of others:

            For a wash I use one drop of paint to six drops of water to which I
            add a tiny tiny sliver of soap. You can also cut the water with a few
            of drops of alcohol, or, believe it or not, Future Floor Wax works too.

            I guess it depends on the effect you are trying to achieve. A very
            thin wash will only stain depressed ares like between boards, a
            thicker wash will do the same but will stain the rest of the car too.
            The good thing about acrylics is you can just wipe or rinse off what
            you don't like.

            Lionel

            http://theotherlionel.com



            --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Russ Meier" <agentink_and_zfan@...>
            wrote:
            >
            > Lionel,
            >
            > Out of curiosity -- what wash ratio do you use for your paints? And
            do you use alcohol or
            > water to dilute?
            >
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