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Re: Objectives for Constant Intensity Lighting & my Z lighting experiences

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  • Glen Chenier
    ... ... they are shell mounted. This way the owner can choose to go back to using the bulb if desired in the future with no cutting or glueing to deal
    Message 1 of 7 , May 1, 2005
      --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hilliard <mchwilton@y...> wrote:
      <SNIP>
      > is as easy to install as replacing the original light bulb, and the
      >leds are directly behind the headlight holes when installed, you can
      >see the leds through the holes when the body is replaced, "as if"
      they >are shell mounted. This way the owner can choose to go back to
      using >the bulb if desired in the future with no cutting or glueing to
      deal >with, or live with.
      >
      > Personally I don't like the empty holes and no lenses and a lot of
      >people seem to feel the same way. <SNIP>

      Michael's solution for LED lighting the MTL F7 has proved to be very
      effective and easy to do with no chopping needed. The dual LED module
      replaces the original incandescent bulb and mounts the same way,
      giving much nicer and highly visible low speed lighting, much better
      than the original bulb, and works both with and without DCC. Is
      brighter on DCC of course with the higher and constant voltage at all
      speeds.

      The lenses are fairly easy to make with a bit of care and practice to
      get the size right, the plastic optical fiber is held near a candle
      flame and the end self-forms and expands into a lens shape. Then cut
      to length and glued into the holes in the shell so the inside end of
      the fiber is close to the LED, a small lens can be melted onto the
      inside end too. Light transmission is very effective through this
      lens. Even if a LED module is not used the lenses look so much better
      than the empty holes.
    • Jim Hinds
      There are a lot of ways to do these things. Anything that avoids chopping has to be great for Z Scale. I prefer to put the LEDs INSIDE the holes (just
      Message 2 of 7 , May 1, 2005
        There are a lot of ways to do these things. Anything that avoids chopping has to be great for Z Scale.

        I prefer to put the LEDs INSIDE the holes (just like the real thing), avoiding the empty holes AND the lenses.

        My experience is that when the lights are on and the lights are simple (e.g., not Mars Lights or Gyralights), you can't really tell how the lighting is accomplished if the light is bright.

        High brightness and constant intensity do not require DCC.

        Jim Hinds


        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Glen Chenier
        To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 10:22 AM
        Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Objectives for Constant Intensity Lighting & my Z lighting experiences


        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hilliard <mchwilton@y...> wrote:
        <SNIP>
        > is as easy to install as replacing the original light bulb, and the
        >leds are directly behind the headlight holes when installed, you can
        >see the leds through the holes when the body is replaced, "as if"
        they >are shell mounted. This way the owner can choose to go back to
        using >the bulb if desired in the future with no cutting or glueing to
        deal >with, or live with.
        >
        > Personally I don't like the empty holes and no lenses and a lot of
        >people seem to feel the same way. <SNIP>

        Michael's solution for LED lighting the MTL F7 has proved to be very
        effective and easy to do with no chopping needed. The dual LED module
        replaces the original incandescent bulb and mounts the same way,
        giving much nicer and highly visible low speed lighting, much better
        than the original bulb, and works both with and without DCC. Is
        brighter on DCC of course with the higher and constant voltage at all
        speeds.

        The lenses are fairly easy to make with a bit of care and practice to
        get the size right, the plastic optical fiber is held near a candle
        flame and the end self-forms and expands into a lens shape. Then cut
        to length and glued into the holes in the shell so the inside end of
        the fiber is close to the LED, a small lens can be melted onto the
        inside end too. Light transmission is very effective through this
        lens. Even if a LED module is not used the lenses look so much better
        than the empty holes.



        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Adam
        Glen, I d like to come by some time and check this out in person, if possible (and I m sure Tom and Stephen would be interested as well.) Also, is there any
        Message 3 of 7 , May 1, 2005
          Glen,

          I'd like to come by some time and check this out in person, if
          possible (and I'm sure Tom and Stephen would be interested as well.)

          Also, is there any word on progress of the MARS-capable (3-prong) LED?

          Thanks,
          Adam
        • Jim Hinds
          A standard LED is Mars-capable. My attempts to grind down two LEDs, bond them together, and drive the LEDs individually with various out-of-phase Mars patterns
          Message 4 of 7 , May 1, 2005
            A standard LED is Mars-capable.

            My attempts to grind down two LEDs, bond them together, and drive the LEDs individually with various out-of-phase Mars patterns ended in bad results. I don't know how to describe my results, but it certainly didn't look like a Mars light.

            Miniatronics sells something that ATTEMPTS this, and I'll let you decide whether it looks like anything that ever ran on a railroad. However, it may look great to some people, and you may like it better than any other option you discover. Some hobby shops have a demo unit you can evaluate.

            If you would really like to pursue this, here's a thought: Get two 603-size LEDs, bond them either face-to-face or back-to-back, drive them with whatever two different patterns you have in mind, and see if you like the results. That size LED is VERY small, and two bonded as I described will probably fit INSIDE the headlight hole of a MicroTrains F7. The key factor here is that a great deal of light comes out of the ENDS of these LEDs.

            Let us know if you try this.

            Jim Hinds




            ----- Original Message -----
            From: Adam
            To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 7:02 PM
            Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Objectives for Constant Intensity Lighting & my Z lighting experiences


            Glen,

            I'd like to come by some time and check this out in person, if
            possible (and I'm sure Tom and Stephen would be interested as well.)

            Also, is there any word on progress of the MARS-capable (3-prong) LED?

            Thanks,
            Adam





            -Z- WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!




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