90% (91%) alcohol
- As long as your 91% alcohol is isopropyl, you should not have a
problem with your paint. If there is any acetone or other solvent
other than water, WATCH OUT. Unless of course you are stripping the
paint, and planning on giving the item a new paint job.
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Dave Hjortnaes" <dlhort1955@j...> wrote:
>Everybody take heed! Isopropyl will damage paint.
> As long as your 91% alcohol is isopropyl, you should not have a
> problem with your paint. If there is any acetone or other solvent
> other than water, WATCH OUT. Unless of course you are stripping the
> paint, and planning on giving the item a new paint job.
I use 99% isopropanol to strip paint from my models. Most paint will
come off eventually from plastic models and will not harm plastic nor
metals. I have had a few hopper cars soaking in the stuff for the last
6 months, because the previous owner chose to paint them with an
enamel based paint intended mostly for metal surfaces. The plastic to
this day remains intact, I'm just waiting for a day when I can finish
scraping off the paint in the hidden crevases. Acetone additives will
indeed melt plastic and paint but nothing more. I did make the mistake
of using a paint made mostly for metal models and it dissolved the
plastic surface and would not strip off without using an invasive
solvent which damaged the plastic surface. Older Floquil paints are
off limits as well as ScaleCoat I. ScaleCoat II is just fine and the
newer formula of Floquil is OK as long as you don't apply it too
thickly (airbrush preferred in thin layers.)
I have found it difficult to get paint to adhere to my resin castings
even after scuffing the surface with a fiberglass brush. The only
solvent I found to damage resin so far is superglue debonder. I think
that has a solvent similar to acetone, although it doesn't smell the
same, more like Butyl nitrate.
I hope I have helped others to not try something costly.
SuZee-Line Rail Models