Re: [z_scale] roadbed
- bjkronen@... wrote:
>Bill is right. Go out and look at some full size RR tracks. If you are
> > Hello, I am going to start constuction on my layout soon.
> Excellent !!! Take pictures of your progress.
> With cork:
> 1. Looks "right"
> 5. One commonly forgotten aspect of roadbeds is that they always have
> drainage ditches next to the right of way. With roadbed, and a foam
> base, it would take almost nothing to scribe in a ditch next to the roadbed edge.
> Life as seen though one set of eyes. Other thoughts out there?
> Bill Kronenberger
modeling mainlines go look at mainlines. Same for yards or branch
You must look at both the track and the area adjacent to the tracks.
You can recognize where the railroad track property ends and the
neighboring non railroad property begins. Your model track should
include all of this. You will probably have to compress your model
because actual RR track including the drainage ditches, cuts and fills
take a lot of space.
The problem with model railroaders is that they copy what other modelers
do and seldom go out and examine what the real RR's do. Take pictures
of what you see and use them as reference to build your model track.
If you are contemplating a fairly large Z scale layout you can take
advantage of your space and build some truly realistic railroad right of
The guys who model in the gigantic scales complain the Z scale lacks
details. For Z scale we can add details that the big clumsies leave
And, try not to lay your railroad ties directly on your base board. Use
some type of road bed. Almost all track is raised above the surrounding
area because of drainage. If you use a substantial roadbed you can use
it to start grades. You can use a thinner roadbed to model sidings and
yards, for they are almost always lower in elevation than the mainline.
Your base board is the absolute bottom level of your scenery. Rivers or
lakes may be lower but you must cut those out. Roads, houses and
buildings should be made on separate baseboards. Imagine if it should
rain on your layout. Where would all the water go. Would the homes
and business on your layout be flooded.
This may sound picky but it will improve the looks of your railroad.
Maybe YOUR should be capitalzed.
- Here's something I wrote about cork roadbed and ballast that might help:
At 08:33 PM 1/1/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello, I am going to start constuction on my layout soon. It is going to___________________________________________
>be 40in by 8 ft. I am planning to use a base of 2inch foam topped by 1/2
>in. high density foam board using the cookie cutter technique for the
>elevations. I am trying to decide whether ornot to use cork roadbedover
>the foam or mount the track directly to the foam.
>I would like to have some opinions pro or con on each procedure
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Dale Halterman <dnhalt@m...> wrote:
> Hello, I am going to start constuction on my layout soon. It isgoing to
> be 40in by 8 ft. I am planning to use a base of 2inch foam toppedby 1/2
> in. high density foam board using the cookie cutter technique forthe
> elevations. I am trying to decide whether ornot to use corkroadbedover
> the foam or mount the track directly to the foam.Hi Dale,
> I would like to have some opinions pro or con on each procedure
> Thanks, Dale
I like both approaches and have used them successfully on the Val
Ease Central. I have no particular preference.
Now, if I were to begin a modest new layout, I would probably use
cork. However, on a large layout with long runs of mainline, I would
be tempted to lay the track on the foam and carve landscape features
(I like to save a few bucks here and there, symbolically of
Everything my associates have contributed to this thread is valid. I
think the sound deadening argument in favour of cork gives it an edge
over foam. Another consideration that I just thought of is, if
someone asked me to build a layout for them, what would I choose?
Answer: cork, no question!
Have fun with whatever you choose, or do both and see
what you prefer.
- Has anyone been using AMI Instant Roadbed in Z scale? Getting ready to
start laying track for my first Z scale layout and could use any
suggestions anyone might have.
- I have used AMI on my module and in my cigar box. I like it a lot. I have
HO scale and it worked great for the double lines. For single it needs to
For my cigar box, I cut it in thirds and it looks good. For my layout I
will try N scale cut in half. It's easy to use. It's sticky on both sides.
Stays where you put it and holds track ballast very well. You can mold it a
bit to flatten the edges so it appears more realistic and can be painted
It can be curved with ease.
We have a Reverend in our club the MidweZt HaulerZ.
Berger Meister, Hertzberg.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- I have not used the AMI as much as I am going to in the future but I
have found one thing about it, it sure cuts down of the drum effect that
is produced when you glue cork roadbed to thin plywood. In addition, I
have been considering using a thin piece of it to dampen the vibration
of the new MTL track on plywood.
The Ttrak Z modules that I have currently use the 195mm R track and
Marklin 220MM R. I have noticed a really big diffenence in sound
deadening using the AMI under the Marklin track. I think that I will be
using a lot of the AMI in the future for its sound deadening qualities.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- Hello Charles,
Paul has already told you about the advantages of AMI Instant Roadbed.
I confess, I suggested it since I've been using it for a long time. All
of the modules the MidweZt HaulerZ currently display use it for roads
and parking lots as well as roadbed. It's flexible, holds track and
ballast well, and the track can be re-positioned fairly easily if it
hasn't been pressed down too firmly or been there for a long time. You
can see it in the pics of my modules here.
Keep ThoZe TrainZ Rollin'
Has anyone been using AMI Instant Roadbed in Z scale? Getting ready to
> start laying track for my first Z scale layout and could use any
> suggestions anyone might have.
- I hate it when links don't work....try this
- I have also used this product to lay track. When I placed the bed on
the ground surface I used some Liquid Nails to glue it down so that I
didn't have to press hard on a piece of delicate foam. I also glued
the track down the same. On the edges I took an Exacto blade and
beveled the bed so make it even on both sides. At this point I took
the finest ballast and sprinkled it all over the bed and track and
pressed it into the gummy material. Once I was satisfied with the
appearance I then took a Dust Buster vac to the remaining loose
ballast and salvaged the unused portion. This process has to be done
all in the same day or else your AMI bed will start to get hard and
lose it's flexibility and wond accept the ballast.
--- In email@example.com, "Thomas Welsch" <rvn20012000@...> wrote:
> Hello Charles,
> Paul has already told you about the advantages of AMI Instant Roadbed.
> I confess, I suggested it since I've been using it for a long time. All
> of the modules the MidweZt HaulerZ currently display use it for roads
> and parking lots as well as roadbed. It's flexible, holds track and
> ballast well, and the track can be re-positioned fairly easily if it
> hasn't been pressed down too firmly or been there for a long time. You
> can see it in the pics of my modules here.
> Keep ThoZe TrainZ Rollin'
> Thom Welsch
> MidweZt HaulreZ
> Has anyone been using AMI Instant Roadbed in Z scale? Getting ready to
> > start laying track for my first Z scale layout and could use any
> > suggestions anyone might have.
> > Thanks,
> > Charles
What is the preferred roadbed for z scale? Cork? Woodland Scenic roadbed? None? I had cork roadbed on my HO set when I was a kid (my dad and I never ballasted it) and it was easy to use and gave good sound dampening from the plywood base. I plan on ballasting my z scale layout and the base will be a mix of plywood and plaster/foam.
The ZoCal group uses on our Z-Bend modules Neoprene & Cork Strip Gasket, 1/8" Thick, 1" Width, 100' Length from McMaster-Carr. I cut mine on a Mat Cutter with a 45degree cutter. Works great even on curves.
- Cork from IBL for me.Dom
De : "afazzara@... [z_scale]" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
À : email@example.com
Envoyé le : Vendredi 6 février 2015 19h31
Objet : [Z_Scale] roadbed
What is the preferred roadbed for z scale? Cork? Woodland Scenic roadbed? None? I had cork roadbed on my HO set when I was a kid (my dad and I never ballasted it) and it was easy to use and gave good sound dampening from the plywood base. I plan on ballasting my z scale layout and the base will be a mix of plywood and plaster/foam.Anthony
- Some recent articles for HO and N scales suggest using two layers of
material in the roadbed for best sound deadening. The best combination
seemed to be foam tape with cork on top. The foam tape used was "campers
tape" which is slightly less dense than the Scotch sticky foam tape.
Other good materials were homosote (which is ground up compressed paper)
and auto foam tape for sound insulation. In N scale I have used cork
roadbed over picture framing matboard (dense paper sheet) or craft foam
sheeting which both do well on extruded foam scenery. I like Woodland
Scenics scenery glue to hold it down but there are cheaper brands. Most
of this material is available over the web at reasonable or even cheap
prices. Try Tape.com for starters.
- Homosote can be a good material. I have a 48 inch by 21 inch portable layout I bought from a friend about 25 years ago. He used 1/2 inch thick Homosote for the base and simply tacked Marklin track to it with small pins. The vast majority of pins are still holding well. I hauled this layout back and forth to two train shows each year for about 15 years and stored it in a garage. It is a paper product and should be somewhat sensitive to humidity changes, but I haven't noticed any problem. It is heavy though. I built a 2nd portable layout, 48 inches by 24 inches, using 3/4 inch Homosote for the base (it's all I could find locally). That layout was a bear to carry - way too heavy. I rebuilt it using foam board and cut the weight by many pounds.
I wouldn't recommend Homosote for a portable layout. It does have some good properties for use on a permanent layout. I don't know if it comes thinner than 1/2 inch. That's pretty thick for z-scale roadbed. And it would require a lot of trimming for the sloped edges. It does have excellent holding power and sound deadening qualities. I know a number of years back that those qualities made it popular, at least for a while, in HO scale.