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Front coupler on steam locomotive?

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  • zscale@retrograde.net
    I m still curious whether anyone has successfully added a front coupler to a Marklin steam locomotive. I m especially interested in putting a front coupler on
    Message 1 of 10 , Sep 29, 2000
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      I'm still curious whether anyone has successfully added a front
      coupler to a Marklin steam locomotive. I'm especially interested in
      putting a front coupler on a US-prototype steamer. I know a number of
      you had planned on attempting this at one time or another. Perhaps it
      remains an unconquered Z challenge?

      Thanks,

      -- Andy
    • Anders Lattermann
      Which number(s) does the loco(s) have that you are thinking of adding a front coupler to? Best regards from the Stockholm night! /Anders
      Message 2 of 10 , Sep 29, 2000
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        Which number(s) does the loco(s) have that you are thinking of adding a
        front coupler to?

        Best regards from the Stockholm night!
        /Anders

        > -----Original Message-----
        > From: zscale@... [mailto:zscale@...]
        > Sent: den 29 september 2000 23:15
        > To: z_scale@egroups.com
        > Subject: [z_scale] Front coupler on steam locomotive?
        >
        >
        > I'm still curious whether anyone has successfully added a front
        > coupler to a Marklin steam locomotive. I'm especially interested in
        > putting a front coupler on a US-prototype steamer. I know a number of
        > you had planned on attempting this at one time or another. Perhaps it
        > remains an unconquered Z challenge?
        >
        > Thanks,
        >
        > -- Andy
        >
        >
        >
        > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
        >
        >
      • zscale@retrograde.net
        ... adding a ... I m thinking of the locomotive body Marklin uses for all their US-prototype 4-6-2 Pacific and 2-8-2 Mikado locomotives. 8807, 8808, and
        Message 3 of 10 , Sep 29, 2000
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          > Which number(s) does the loco(s) have that you are thinking of
          adding a
          > front coupler to?

          I'm thinking of the locomotive body Marklin uses for all their
          US-prototype 4-6-2 "Pacific" and 2-8-2 "Mikado" locomotives. 8807,
          8808, and 8810 are examples. I have an 8881 set with a 4-6-2, and I
          should have a couple 2-8-2's soon. These do not have buffers, unlike
          most European locomotives I've seen. Instead they have a small,
          late-era version of the American cow-catcher right above the tracks.
          Above this is a small knob of material, which is Marklin's
          approximation of the prototype's front coupler.

          > Best regards from the Stockholm night!

          It isn't night here in Seattle quite yet, but it might as well be!
          Gloomy and rainy.

          -- Andy
        • Reynard Wellman
          Hello Andy, Unless you plan to gang together multiple Mikados or Pacifics, I wouldn t mess up the chassis. These big steamers were usually solo haulers that
          Message 4 of 10 , Sep 29, 2000
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            Hello Andy,

            Unless you plan to gang together multiple Mikados or Pacifics, I
            wouldn't mess up the chassis. These big steamers were usually solo haulers
            that seldom used the front coupler anyway. Micro-Trains' sub-contracted and

            built a beautiful 2-6-0 Southern Pacific switcher with a working front
            coupler.
            $500.00 though.

            I wish you the best of luck anyway. I don't have enough guts to try it
            myself.

            regards,
            Reynard

            zscale@... wrote:

            > I'm still curious whether anyone has successfully added a front
            > coupler to a Marklin steam locomotive. I'm especially interested in
            > putting a front coupler on a US-prototype steamer. I know a number of
            > you had planned on attempting this at one time or another. Perhaps it
            > remains an unconquered Z challenge?
            >
            > Thanks,
            >
            > -- Andy
            >
            >
            > "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
          • Dan MacKellar
            Yes, I have one on my 2-8-2. I added a Kadee to it. This involved drilling a hole out in the front pilot, squaring it up to accept a Kadee coupler box, as
            Message 5 of 10 , Sep 30, 2000
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              Yes, I have one on my 2-8-2. I added a Kadee to it. This involved
              drilling a hole out in the front pilot, squaring it up to accept a Kadee
              coupler box, as well as trim a bit off the front of the pilot to clear
              the "air hose". I then drilled a hole thru the pilot sill, tapped it for
              a Kadee screw and viola. The little nub that represents the coupler
              was cut off with a hobby knife.

              The pilot truck needs to be removed to do this surgery, but remember
              to put the screws back in before you flip the loco over. I didn't, and
              my Mike currently resides in my toolbox, awating the time when I'm
              patient enough to set the drivers...

              The reason I added a coupler was due to the fact that this loco was
              to be assigned to a mine run (still will be) which involves some on-line
              switching. I've also added Kadee couplers to the tenders of both
              my 2-8-2 (which has also been shortened due to the localness of
              the run) and my 4-6-2 (which remains front-couplerless at this time)

              Hope this helps,

              Regards,
              Dan MacKellar

              -----Original Message-----
              From: zscale@... <zscale@...>
              To: z_scale@egroups.com <z_scale@egroups.com>
              Date: Friday, September 29, 2000 4:15 PM
              Subject: [z_scale] Front coupler on steam locomotive?


              >I'm still curious whether anyone has successfully added a front
              >coupler to a Marklin steam locomotive. I'm especially interested in
              >putting a front coupler on a US-prototype steamer. I know a number of
              >you had planned on attempting this at one time or another. Perhaps it
              >remains an unconquered Z challenge?
              >
              >Thanks,
              >
              >-- Andy
              >
              >
              >
              >"Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
              >
              >
            • Roy Stevens
              I managed to sqeeze a dummy knuckle on the front of one of my Nn3 steamers by taking apart a MT coupler and thinning the knuckle and catch to almost the
              Message 6 of 10 , Sep 30, 2000
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                I managed to sqeeze a dummy knuckle on the front of one of my Nn3 steamers
                by taking apart a MT coupler and thinning the knuckle and catch to almost
                the thickness of the two pieces that fit in the box. Then I cut half of the
                back loop off and threaded the other half through a hole drilled
                horozontally in the pilot. I arranged the pieces so that a coupler would
                latch and catch if brought against the pilot and glued it in place.
                Unfortunately it will not uncouple automatically. But at least I can now
                double-head, and if I want to use it as a switcher I'll use and idler flat.

                Roy
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              • Anders Lattermann
                Hi! ... 8807 and 8808 has the same chassi as 8827 and others. You can put the front runner from a 8895 on that one. The cow catcher (or whatever it s called)
                Message 7 of 10 , Oct 1, 2000
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                  Hi!

                  > I'm thinking of the locomotive body Marklin uses for all their
                  > US-prototype 4-6-2 "Pacific" and 2-8-2 "Mikado" locomotives. 8807, 8808

                  8807 and 8808 has the same chassi as 8827 and others. You can put the front
                  runner from a 8895 on that one. The cow catcher (or whatever it's called)
                  might be in the way and you probably have to file it down/saw it off.

                  > , and 8810 are examples.

                  8810 seams trickier, it has the same chassi as 8885 and others and I have
                  never seen a factory made chassi like this with hook or coupler in the front
                  which means you have to invent something. You might be able to glue (with
                  super glue) a metal piece bent into the same shape as the 8895 hook to the
                  front runner. Soldering is probably better but is trickier if you don't have
                  any soldering experience for metal.

                  Good luck and best regards from Stockholm/Sweden!
                  /Anders Lattermann

                  -------------------------------------
                  The amaZing Z-scale site:
                  http://www.lattermann.com/amaZing
                  -------------------------------------
                • zscale@retrograde.net
                  Thanks for the info, Dan (and everyone else, too). It just so happens that both my Mikados arrived today (!), so I can take a close look at them. I suspected
                  Message 8 of 10 , Oct 2, 2000
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                    Thanks for the info, Dan (and everyone else, too). It just so happens
                    that both my Mikados arrived today (!), so I can take a close look at
                    them. I suspected I'd need to cut a rectangular hole in the front, so
                    your description confirms that. Since your Mikado is currently living
                    in your toolbox, does that mean you haven't had a chance to road-test
                    the new coupler yet?

                    Reynard, as you mentioned, the goal is indeed to "double-head" a pair
                    of Mikados. I've seen it done in a number of old photographs, and in
                    the area I'm hoping to model (well, roughly anyway), I understand
                    steam double-heading was quite common. Plus, it seems like just the
                    thing to pull longer trains up the grades -- without resorting to my
                    F7 A-B <grin>.

                    While Marklin's American 2-8-2 has a virtually identical body to
                    their American 4-6-2, its chassis is probably slightly heavier and
                    its drivers are smaller, so I hope for a little less wheel slippage
                    on hills.

                    It's interesting that despite the number of "powered axles"
                    advertised by Marklin, the 2-8-2 and the 4-6-2 have the same number
                    of powered wheels doing the work -- four! The other drivers don't
                    quite touch the rails. Why are they designed this way? For better
                    traction or better electrical contact? Some other reason?

                    -- Andy


                    > Yes, I have one on my 2-8-2. I added a Kadee to it. This involved
                    > drilling a hole out in the front pilot, squaring it up to accept a
                    Kadee
                    > coupler box, as well as trim a bit off the front of the pilot to
                    clear
                    > the "air hose". I then drilled a hole thru the pilot sill, tapped
                    it for
                    > a Kadee screw and viola. The little nub that represents the coupler
                    > was cut off with a hobby knife.
                  • Jeffrey MacHan
                    ... The reason is to allow the long wheelbase locos to negociate the tightest of M s curves. JRM
                    Message 9 of 10 , Oct 2, 2000
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                      >
                      >It's interesting that despite the number of "powered axles"
                      >advertised by Marklin, the 2-8-2 and the 4-6-2 have the same number
                      >of powered wheels doing the work -- four! The other drivers don't
                      >quite touch the rails. Why are they designed this way? For better
                      >traction or better electrical contact? Some other reason?
                      >
                      >-- Andy

                      The reason is to allow the long wheelbase locos to negociate the tightest of
                      M's curves.

                      JRM


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                    • Garth A. Hamilton - VE3HO
                      I do not believe that this is correct since the electrical pickup is only on the drivers at the extreme ends of the locomotive, the other interior axles are
                      Message 10 of 10 , Oct 2, 2000
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                        I do not believe that this is correct since the electrical pickup is only on the drivers at the extreme ends of the locomotive, the other interior axles are elevated to place more weight on the drivers and hence on the track ensuring better electrical pickup. The adhesion comes from the total weight of the locomotive on the rails and is not a function of how many wheels are on the rail. The weight is divided by the number of driving wheels on the rail. Increasing the number of wheels on the track just reduces the adhesion per wheel but the total remains the same so the engine does not pull more just does with a better electric supply.

                        On uneven track without the interior axles being elevated you could loose electrical contact on one or more axles. I enhance the loco's performance by adding a wiper to the other drivers and have even added tender pick up on some. Whenever I add the additional electrical pickup I also file the small tit on the cover plate that elevates that interior axle bringing it down to the track. These two things increase the electrical pickup and engines are less likely to stall. The trick is finding the fine phosphor bronze sheet stock in the right size. Some times When I run out of sheet stock I use a brass wire wiper which has an inverted V shape at 90 degrees to the wiper arm and runs on the tire at the top of the wheel where it is out of site and this can also act as a spring on the interior driver to keep weight on the driver placing it on the track most of the time. This adds drag to the drive train and is not as efficient as the wide wiper strips, but it is better than no wiper.

                        Garth

                        At 01:02 AM 10/03/2000 +0000, you wrote:
                        >>
                        >>It's interesting that despite the number of "powered axles"
                        >>advertised by Marklin, the 2-8-2 and the 4-6-2 have the same number
                        >>of powered wheels doing the work -- four! The other drivers don't
                        >>quite touch the rails. Why are they designed this way? For better
                        >>traction or better electrical contact? Some other reason?
                        >>
                        >>-- Andy
                        >
                        >The reason is to allow the long wheelbase locos to negociate the tightest of
                        >M's curves.
                        >
                        >JRM
                        >
                        >
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                        >
                        >"Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
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