Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: My engines wont go

Expand Messages
  • Andy Hunting
    Hi, Chuck -- To clean out gunky old oil and other collected crud, I use QD contact cleaner, also known as tuner cleaner , which is available at electronics
    Message 1 of 4 , Dec 1, 2003
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi, Chuck --

      To clean out gunky old oil and other collected crud, I use "QD"
      contact cleaner, also known as "tuner cleaner", which is available at
      electronics stores and often at hardware stores in the electrical
      section. "QD" is not a brand name; I think it means "quick drying",
      because this liquid evaporates almost instantly once it's out of the
      spray can. Make sure that you select a cleaner which does not attack
      plastic, and which does not leave lubricants or any other residue
      behind.

      I remove the locomotive shell and then give the gears a few good
      blasts with my can of cleaner. While I'm at it, I make sure that
      cleaner fluid has gotten to the wheel wipers and the brushes. Be sure
      that your high-pressure spray can doesn't dislodge the brushes,
      though!

      I turn steamers upside down and loosen the belly-pan screws -just-
      enough- to lift the belly pan slightly, and then I spray some cleaner
      into the gears through the crack under the lifted pan. IMPORTANT:
      only loosen the belly pan screws enough to allow cleaner to spray in;
      loosen them too far, and the spray-can pressure may cause a gear to
      move and skip a tooth. Mis-aligned steamer gears are a big hassle to
      re-align. Once the gears have had a good bath, tighten the belly-pan
      screws and turn the loco right-side-up again.

      I usually run the loco -very-briefly- to rotate the works, distribute
      any un-evaporated cleaner, and expose any remaining dirt and old
      oil. Since the loco is essentially un-lubricated at this point, I
      run it for a very short time to avoid damaging the dry gears.
      Then I give it a second bath as above. If old, congealed oil was the
      true problem with a loco, it should run freely now.

      With the old oil and gunk cleaned out, it's time to put in new oil.
      Please see David Karp's excellent article for info on oiling. Here's
      the address:

      http://www.zscale.org/articles/revival.html

      Occasionally, a locomotive with good oil will foul its brushes, in
      which case the headlight will come on but the motor will not turn OR
      hum. Removing the shell and blowing on the brushes and armature may
      fix it. Sometimes I'll remove the brushes, clean them and the
      armature with some rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab, and then put the
      brushes back on (keep track of which brush came from which side!).
      I'll usually put a tiny drop of oil on the motor bearing(s)
      afterwards, just in case the alcohol removed some oil.

      Happy fixing,

      -- Andy Hunting



      --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "deadskunk01" <deadskunk01@y...>
      wrote:
      > I have several Marklin engines of veries types, that have been in
      > stored in a closet for a few years. I got them out to exercise
      them,
      > and the oil in the gear boxs and moters has Junked up. the lights
      > come on and reverse when the power is reversed. I can hear the
      moters
      > buzz too. What I need to Know is how to clean the Junk out of my
      > engines so I can get my powered rolling stock moving again.
      >
      > Chuck
    • Ralph Scott
      You could try CRC CO contact cleaner - let it soak in and evaporare then relube . On double truck Locos some times the simple act of removing the pivot pin and
      Message 2 of 4 , Dec 2, 2003
      • 0 Attachment
        You could try CRC CO contact cleaner - let it soak in and evaporare then relube . On double truck Locos some times the simple act of removing the pivot pin and removing the truck will allow you to spray cleaning fluid directly onto the gears. this will also allow you to check when the gears are freely moving.

        You may need a set of jewelers screwdrivers, tweezers or small piers and a bright light and possibly a magnifying glass to help you do this

        If a simple spray clean fails then the only alternative is to carefully disasemble clean and reassemble the gearbox. This can be problematic so you need to take careful note of where each gear is located and which way around they sit in the chassis,. It would pay to make a drawing as you disassemble and lay the parts out on a piece of paper in the order and position you take them apart. Only disasemble one truck at a time -this will make fault finding easier. if the loko has wheels with driving rods attached eg crocodile try to mark the inside of the wheels so you can relocate them in their original exact position. watch out for very tiny internal idler gears that pivot on the inside of the chassis.
        this job requires a lot of time and patience!
        Ralph
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: deadskunk01
        To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 3:51 PM
        Subject: [z_scale] My engines wont go


        I have several Marklin engines of veries types, that have been in
        stored in a closet for a few years. I got them out to exercise them,
        and the oil in the gear boxs and moters has Junked up. the lights
        come on and reverse when the power is reversed. I can hear the moters
        buzz too. What I need to Know is how to clean the Junk out of my
        engines so I can get my powered rolling stock moving again.

        Chuck



        Yahoo! Groups Sponsor



        "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


        Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Glen Chenier
        ... Good advice. I d like to add every part should be marked with a fine tipped felt marker with an identifying number and left/right/front/rear orientation
        Message 3 of 4 , Dec 2, 2003
        • 0 Attachment
          --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph Scott" <ralph.scott@x> wrote:
          > >
          > If a simple spray clean fails then the only alternative is to
          >carefully disasemble clean and reassemble the gearbox. This can be
          >problematic so you need to take careful note of where each gear is
          >located and which way around they sit in the chassis,. It would pay
          >to make a drawing as you disassemble and lay the parts out on a
          >piece of paper in the order and position you take them apart.

          Good advice. I'd like to add every part should be marked with a fine
          tipped felt marker with an identifying number and
          left/right/front/rear orientation to help with re-assembly. Gear
          teeth wear in a pattern dependent on their mating gears, even parts
          that were identical when new will become individual after wear.
        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.