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Re: [z_scale] Re: Very poor running.

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  • Ralph.Scott
    Hi I just thought that I would add that Marklin say leave 0.1mm between the track pin head and the track tie (see their track pin instructions). Also if you
    Message 1 of 7 , Jun 1, 2003
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      Hi
      I just thought that I would add that Marklin say leave 0.1mm between the track pin head and the track tie (see their track pin instructions). Also if you use longer pins you are more likely to increase the possibility of not hitting them in perfectly straight causing some degree of rail missalignment. I have been guilty of this and have always had to redo the affected area! -especially where S curves are involved.
      regards Ralph.
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Reynard Wellman
      To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 5:42 PM
      Subject: Re: [z_scale] Re: Very poor running.


      Hello ELF

      I found out a long time ago that Z track is real sensitive to
      the slightest incursions, misalignments, off cambers,
      "S" curves and white glue. Marklin track works excellent right out
      of the box because basically we haven't interfered with
      it much when we first play with it. Take a new track set,
      connect it together and everything will work fine but
      once you start pinning it down, adding ballast and
      warping it to fit your track plan things can get pretty bad.

      Keeping the track somewhat loose and coplanar helps
      tremendously and I now pin my track down on the outside
      of the ties.

      On Sunday, June 1, 2003, at 12:12 AM, rohirrim98236 wrote:
      Edited For Length>
      >
      > I proceeded to remove ALL the nails (track was already held
      > in place by ballast and glue), and some of the problems
      > cleared up right away.
      >
      > Just a bit of experience which might be of help to you, or
      > someone.
      >
      > ELF
      >
      >


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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    • bill.foote
      One possible way of avoiding this problem is to drill holes through the ties(sleepers) and into the baseboard (very necessary if you have a fairly hard
      Message 2 of 7 , Jun 1, 2003
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        One possible way of avoiding this problem is to drill holes through the
        ties(sleepers) and into the baseboard (very necessary if you have a fairly
        hard material for a baseboard anyhow) - drill to a depth that just allows
        the end of track pins to "bite" into the baseboard, using a drill that is
        what I would describe as "barely clearance" for the track pins

        Well that is how I did it on my most recent layout, and it seems to work

        As ever, use as few pins as possible

        ----- Original Message -----
        From: "rohirrim98236" <rohirrim@...>
        To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 6:12 AM
        Subject: [z_scale] Re: Very poor running.


        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Terry J.N. Rowsell" <terryrowsell@y...> wr=
        ote:
        > Hi.
        >
        > I am at the point where all of my track is layed on my Z scale layout
        > and the scenery is coming along.
        > BUT I can never ever ever get my little locos to run around once
        > without stopping.
        > My two Z scale locos are Markln and for all intents and purposes 0-4-
        > 0 locos electrically which is itself frustrating.
        > I am at the end of my rope!


        [I am just back and catching up on a few weeks
        of emails, so please forgive the `step backwards".]

        I too had been suffering from a very similar experience
        (especially the rope part!). My two locos are Märklin
        8895 (five pole 2-6-0) and Märklin 8899 (three pole 4-6-0)
        steamers.

        I had the good fortune, a couple of weeks ago, of taking my
        locos to Terry Sutfin's house and running them on the
        Poorville and Debt City. They ran fine -- smooth, no
        hesitation and well at slow speeds. He graciously lent me
        a few of his (4 axle and 6 axle Märklin Diesel and
        Electrics) to try on my layout. Because of the much longer
        wheel base I was able to `see' problems in the track
        which were not apparent otherwise.

        Terry also questioned me about my tack nails. I was sure
        they had not been put in too deeply (which I could verify
        with an optivisor!), but he wondered if the tight fit in the
        molded-in hole might still create enough friction to cause
        just enough binding [leteral movement of the rail heads]
        to be a problem. (This guess was prompted by the fact that
        the locos run very well on the two sections on Faller bridges
        where NO nails had been used.)

        I proceeded to remove ALL the nails (track was already held
        in place by ballast and glue), and some of the problems
        cleared up right away.

        Just a bit of experience which might be of help to you, or
        someone.

        ELF




        "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


        Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      • Ralph.Scott
        On one of my earlier layouts I layed 1.5mm cork then added track withith the occassional pin partly driven in to hold the track in place then added catenary
        Message 3 of 7 , Jun 1, 2003
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          On one of my earlier layouts I layed 1.5mm cork then added track withith the occassional pin partly driven in to hold the track in place then added catenary supports and then the ballast material followed by diluted pva glue. This was fine until usage caused some ballast particles to come loose and get caught up in the locos' gears.
          This time I layed the cork but spray painted it with a thick coat of Plasti cote Fleck Stone. Then just before the paint was completely dry partialy pinned the track inplace and weighted it down until the paint dried and hardened. Then removed most of the track pins and near- homed the remaining few pins. The flek paint looks very like ballast and comes in different shades of granite from pink-brown through to grey -black.. it is also easy to clean.
          I have some photos but I am not quite sure how or where to post them or what size they should be
          Ralph.
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: bill.foote
          To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 9:19 PM
          Subject: Re: [z_scale] Re: Very poor running.


          One possible way of avoiding this problem is to drill holes through the
          ties(sleepers) and into the baseboard (very necessary if you have a fairly
          hard material for a baseboard anyhow) - drill to a depth that just allows
          the end of track pins to "bite" into the baseboard, using a drill that is
          what I would describe as "barely clearance" for the track pins

          Well that is how I did it on my most recent layout, and it seems to work

          As ever, use as few pins as possible

          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "rohirrim98236" <rohirrim@...>
          To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 6:12 AM
          Subject: [z_scale] Re: Very poor running.


          --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Terry J.N. Rowsell" <terryrowsell@y...> wr=
          ote:
          > Hi.
          >
          > I am at the point where all of my track is layed on my Z scale layout
          > and the scenery is coming along.
          > BUT I can never ever ever get my little locos to run around once
          > without stopping.
          > My two Z scale locos are Markln and for all intents and purposes 0-4-
          > 0 locos electrically which is itself frustrating.
          > I am at the end of my rope!


          [I am just back and catching up on a few weeks
          of emails, so please forgive the `step backwards".]

          I too had been suffering from a very similar experience
          (especially the rope part!). My two locos are Märklin
          8895 (five pole 2-6-0) and Märklin 8899 (three pole 4-6-0)
          steamers.

          I had the good fortune, a couple of weeks ago, of taking my
          locos to Terry Sutfin's house and running them on the
          Poorville and Debt City. They ran fine -- smooth, no
          hesitation and well at slow speeds. He graciously lent me
          a few of his (4 axle and 6 axle Märklin Diesel and
          Electrics) to try on my layout. Because of the much longer
          wheel base I was able to `see' problems in the track
          which were not apparent otherwise.

          Terry also questioned me about my tack nails. I was sure
          they had not been put in too deeply (which I could verify
          with an optivisor!), but he wondered if the tight fit in the
          molded-in hole might still create enough friction to cause
          just enough binding [leteral movement of the rail heads]
          to be a problem. (This guess was prompted by the fact that
          the locos run very well on the two sections on Faller bridges
          where NO nails had been used.)

          I proceeded to remove ALL the nails (track was already held
          in place by ballast and glue), and some of the problems
          cleared up right away.

          Just a bit of experience which might be of help to you, or
          someone.

          ELF




          "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


          Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




          Yahoo! Groups Sponsor





          "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


          Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • David George
          Don t use any pins at all ! just glue-tack the track with Mr Elmer. David G. bill.foote wrote: One possible way of avoiding this
          Message 4 of 7 , Jun 2, 2003
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            Don't use any pins at all ! just glue-tack the track with Mr Elmer.

            David G.

            "bill.foote" <bill.foote@...> wrote:
            One possible way of avoiding this problem is to drill holes through the
            ties(sleepers) and into the baseboard (very necessary if you have a fairly
            hard material for a baseboard anyhow) - drill to a depth that just allows
            the end of track pins to "bite" into the baseboard, using a drill that is
            what I would describe as "barely clearance" for the track pins

            Well that is how I did it on my most recent layout, and it seems to work

            As ever, use as few pins as possible

            ----- Original Message -----
            From: "rohirrim98236" <rohirrim@...>
            To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 6:12 AM
            Subject: [z_scale] Re: Very poor running.


            --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Terry J.N. Rowsell" <terryrowsell@y...> wr=
            ote:
            > Hi.
            >
            > I am at the point where all of my track is layed on my Z scale layout
            > and the scenery is coming along.
            > BUT I can never ever ever get my little locos to run around once
            > without stopping.
            > My two Z scale locos are Markln and for all intents and purposes 0-4-
            > 0 locos electrically which is itself frustrating.
            > I am at the end of my rope!


            [I am just back and catching up on a few weeks
            of emails, so please forgive the `step backwards".]

            I too had been suffering from a very similar experience
            (especially the rope part!). My two locos are M�rklin
            8895 (five pole 2-6-0) and M�rklin 8899 (three pole 4-6-0)
            steamers.

            I had the good fortune, a couple of weeks ago, of taking my
            locos to Terry Sutfin's house and running them on the
            Poorville and Debt City. They ran fine -- smooth, no
            hesitation and well at slow speeds. He graciously lent me
            a few of his (4 axle and 6 axle M�rklin Diesel and
            Electrics) to try on my layout. Because of the much longer
            wheel base I was able to `see' problems in the track
            which were not apparent otherwise.

            Terry also questioned me about my tack nails. I was sure
            they had not been put in too deeply (which I could verify
            with an optivisor!), but he wondered if the tight fit in the
            molded-in hole might still create enough friction to cause
            just enough binding [leteral movement of the rail heads]
            to be a problem. (This guess was prompted by the fact that
            the locos run very well on the two sections on Faller bridges
            where NO nails had been used.)

            I proceeded to remove ALL the nails (track was already held
            in place by ballast and glue), and some of the problems
            cleared up right away.

            Just a bit of experience which might be of help to you, or
            someone.

            ELF




            "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


            Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




            Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

            "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


            Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Steven Delibert
            Another nail-less possibility is the wonderful butyl rubber instant roadbed from AMI. We have just been using it for a few months, and love it-- pressing
            Message 5 of 7 , Jun 2, 2003
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              Another nail-less possibility is the wonderful butyl rubber "instant
              roadbed" from AMI.
              We have just been using it for a few months, and love it-- pressing down
              the track adheres it firmly; the "tack" of any single spot is little enough
              that you can move bits of track around for alignment, but the combined
              "tack" on a long section of track is enough that it seems determined to stay
              put for a long, long time.
              At one point we found after we had laid a good size stretch of track - 8
              ft long, much 2 and 3 track, 6 switches, etc - we just weren't happy with
              the general alignment; 2 of us were able to untack and lift up the entire
              stretch of track and roadbed from the base, move it several inches, and
              press it back down where it again adhered rock-hard.
              Has anyone found a downside to this stuff (except that it's sometimes
              hard to get)?
              Steve Delibert
              ----- Original Message -----
              From: "David George" <dlgeorgesr@...>
              To: <z_scale@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 12:30 PM
              Subject: Re: [z_scale] Re: Very poor running.


              Don't use any pins at all ! just glue-tack the track with Mr Elmer.

              David G.

              "bill.foote" <bill.foote@...> wrote:
              One possible way of avoiding this problem is to drill holes through the
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