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Very poor running.

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  • Terry J.N. Rowsell
    Hi. I am at the point where all of my track is layed on my Z scale layout and the scenery is coming along. BUT I can never ever ever get my little locos to run
    Message 1 of 3 , May 14, 2003
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      Hi.

      I am at the point where all of my track is layed on my Z scale layout
      and the scenery is coming along.

      BUT I can never ever ever get my little locos to run around once
      without stopping. I am an experienced N scaler so I have tried all
      of my track laying tricks for smooth running but the locos run ragged
      here and there and they stop LOTS and need tapping tapping tapping.

      The track is finicky when it comes to dirt but I don't mind constant
      cleaning. The locos are a headache to keep everything from the
      wipers to the wheels clean.

      Just when I have spent hours on everything the darned things STOP
      here and there!

      I am spoiled I guess by Kato N scale locos that can run smoothly over
      even moderately dirty track and run so smooth and glassy that it is
      amazing.

      My two Z scale locos are Markln and for all intents and purposes 0-4-
      0 locos electrically which is itself frustrating.

      I am at the end of my rope! Is there something I am missing???

      I have had years without ANY of these worries in N scale.

      TERRY

      I am at the
    • rohirrim98236
      ... [I am just back and catching up on a few weeks of emails, so please forgive the `step backwards .] I too had been suffering from a very similar experience
      Message 2 of 3 , May 31, 2003
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        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Terry J.N. Rowsell" <terryrowsell@y...> wr=
        ote:
        > Hi.
        >
        > I am at the point where all of my track is layed on my Z scale layout
        > and the scenery is coming along.
        > BUT I can never ever ever get my little locos to run around once
        > without stopping.
        > My two Z scale locos are Markln and for all intents and purposes 0-4-
        > 0 locos electrically which is itself frustrating.
        > I am at the end of my rope!


        [I am just back and catching up on a few weeks
        of emails, so please forgive the `step backwards".]

        I too had been suffering from a very similar experience
        (especially the rope part!). My two locos are Märklin
        8895 (five pole 2-6-0) and Märklin 8899 (three pole 4-6-0)
        steamers.

        I had the good fortune, a couple of weeks ago, of taking my
        locos to Terry Sutfin's house and running them on the
        Poorville and Debt City. They ran fine -- smooth, no
        hesitation and well at slow speeds. He graciously lent me
        a few of his (4 axle and 6 axle Märklin Diesel and
        Electrics) to try on my layout. Because of the much longer
        wheel base I was able to `see' problems in the track
        which were not apparent otherwise.

        Terry also questioned me about my tack nails. I was sure
        they had not been put in too deeply (which I could verify
        with an optivisor!), but he wondered if the tight fit in the
        molded-in hole might still create enough friction to cause
        just enough binding [leteral movement of the rail heads]
        to be a problem. (This guess was prompted by the fact that
        the locos run very well on the two sections on Faller bridges
        where NO nails had been used.)

        I proceeded to remove ALL the nails (track was already held
        in place by ballast and glue), and some of the problems
        cleared up right away.

        Just a bit of experience which might be of help to you, or
        someone.

        ELF
      • Reynard Wellman
        Hello ELF I found out a long time ago that Z track is real sensitive to the slightest incursions, misalignments, off cambers, S curves and white glue.
        Message 3 of 3 , May 31, 2003
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          Hello ELF

          I found out a long time ago that Z track is real sensitive to
          the slightest incursions, misalignments, off cambers,
          "S" curves and white glue. Marklin track works excellent right out
          of the box because basically we haven't interfered with
          it much when we first play with it. Take a new track set,
          connect it together and everything will work fine but
          once you start pinning it down, adding ballast and
          warping it to fit your track plan things can get pretty bad.

          Keeping the track somewhat loose and coplanar helps
          tremendously and I now pin my track down on the outside
          of the ties.

          On Sunday, June 1, 2003, at 12:12 AM, rohirrim98236 wrote:
          Edited For Length>
          >
          > I proceeded to remove ALL the nails (track was already held
          > in place by ballast and glue), and some of the problems
          > cleared up right away. 
          >
          > Just a bit of experience which might be of help to you, or
          > someone.
          >
          > ELF
          >
          >


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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