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Re: [z_scale] Re: Any Good Tips For Reseating Gears, 4-6-2

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  • John Engbers
    In the PROTOTYPE THE siderods have to be off center or the engine will get stuck. The local Shortline, Middletown and New Jersey had that problem with one of
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 3, 2003
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      In the PROTOTYPE THE siderods have to be off center or the engine will get stuck. The local Shortline, Middletown and New Jersey had that problem with one of their steamers. Regards, John Engbers.
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: John Cubbin
      To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 3:26 AM
      Subject: [z_scale] Re: Any Good Tips For Reseating Gears, 4-6-2


      Hi Kim,

      I appreciate your earlier email detailing your method of reseating the
      gears. As I wrote earlier, I accidentally broke one of the solder joints
      on the capacitor when I removed the motor. Having soldered that back in
      place, I went ahead with the gears. After all were in place correctly, I
      found it very tricky to then get everything to slide into place:

      1) The worm gear into the chassis and motor
      2) The ends of the capacitor into both sets of holes in the motor
      3) Making sure the pan on the gears didn't slip while I reassembled

      I did replace the screw on the front of the oil pan, but without that
      rear (pan & motor) screw in place, the pan can still move around a bit
      and one of the gears can slip out of position. After it was all
      assembled I placed it on the track, and the gears were binding
      immediately. Rather than remove the motor again, I removed the entire
      oil pan, and began reseating the gears. Since the worm gear was now in
      place, I followed your idea of starting with the wheel closest to the
      motor. After inserting and adjusting the three wheels, I then added the
      smaller (intermediate?) gears.

      I'd like to be able to say that was it, all ran smoothly, but it ran
      with a decided thump! I'm believe from a excessive push / pull force due
      to the side rods not being aligned just right. Since everything was
      pretty much assembled at this point, I was able to again just quickly
      remove the oil pan, make a minor adjustment to a gear or two, and try
      that out. After a couple of attempts this way, all fell into place
      nicely. The loco has been running for a couple of hours now, without
      question it's running smoother than when I started this whole process. I
      should also note that this is a brand new loco, all of a couple of days
      old. I find that a little puzzling also, but that's a story for another
      day.

      The biggest question I have is the one I mentioned earlier... why, when
      the side rods on one side of the loco are absolutely straight, the rods
      on the other side of the loco are off just a bit. I'm guessing that that
      this is just a manufacturing tolerance. If that is so, then there is a
      bit of tweaking to be done to maximize a loco's (every loco's)
      performance?

      It's been a fun project, and the 4-6-2 is running great....

      Again thanks for your advice here!

      John
      http://www.ztrains.com


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