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Re: Any Good Tips For Reseating Gears, 4-6-2

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  • superchip62
    Hi guys, I had good reason to pull apart my 2-10-0 Loco the other night (8884) and It was real fun! trying to reset all the cogs and stuff! I found that by
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 2 10:09 AM
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      Hi guys, I had good reason to pull apart my 2-10-0 Loco the other
      night (8884) and It was real fun! trying to reset all the cogs and
      stuff! I found that by lifting the individual axle and jiggling it
      the wheels could be made to align. As a reference I set the front
      wheel counterbalance at a determined point (i.e 12 o'clock) then
      gently lifted the others in turn to align as above. In some cases I
      had to remove the intermedeate cog and the pop it back. The biggest
      gripe was the weel contacts that would pop out if the axle was
      lifted too high. You need a fair bit of patience, infact a lot of
      patience, and the ability to hold your breath for long periods!!

      So nice to have a part

      Nick (UK)






      --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, John Cubbin <jcubbin@o...> wrote:
      > Hi,
      >
      > I've been playing a bit with a 4-6-2 Pacific and have had a heck
      of a
      > time getting the gears to really sit well. I have aligned the side
      rods
      > so they are all level, yet many times upon attempting to run the
      loco,
      > the gears would bind up almost immediately. More than once I would
      > reseat the gears and there would be a pronounced "thump" as the
      train
      > ran. The subtleties involved here are really surprising me.
      >
      > Does anyone have a preferred method for reseating the gears cleanly
      > right off the bat, or is this just a matter of playing with the
      gears
      > until they mesh just so? I haven't run into this with any of my
      #8803s,
      > they seem to fall right into place, but this 4-6-2 Pacific is a
      good
      > deal more challenging.
      >
      > Any thoughts or tips appreciated.
      >
      > Thanks,
      > John
      > http://www.ztrains.com
    • kimvellore
      John, Dont remove the side rods because it goes back to the same location after you remove it and will not help if misalligned. I remove and install the gears
      Message 2 of 9 , Apr 2 11:02 AM
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        John,
        Dont remove the side rods because it goes back to the same
        location after you remove it and will not help if misalligned.

        I remove and install the gears all the time it takes me a few minutes
        to put it back together. I will try to explain the way I do it.

        First remove the motor and the worm gear if there are any in between
        the motor and the wheels.

        Now you can spin the wheels freely to check if it is binding or not.
        I will start with all the gears removed.

        First install the three gears with the wheels and side rods and
        allign the side rods so they are straight.

        Now you have two more gears to install in between. Start with the end
        closest to the motor and keeping one wheel fixed (the last one close
        to the motor) insert the gear in between. you will see the center
        wheel turn a little during the process, this is the amount of
        missalignment. Now still keeping the last wheel fixed spin the center
        wheeel in the opposite direction the center gear will come out from
        its location when you do this continue to spin in the same direction
        so it slips one or two gear sprocket with respect to the center gear.
        Spin the center wheel back so the three gears are set (you still have
        to keep the last wheel from spinning) and the side rods are still
        straight and free.

        Repeat the same process now keeping the center wheel fixed. You will
        get a hang of it after you get it right once. now put back the gear
        cover (oil pan?) and spin the wheels to make sure there is no
        binding. if there is it is usually the last wheel you worked on so
        repear the process of alligning the gear till it is set right.

        If you still have problems I can make up some pictures and describe
        it.
        Kim



        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, John Cubbin <jcubbin@o...> wrote:
        > Hi Dan,
        >
        > I'd like to ask you a question on this gear reseating business. I
        read
        > the Garth Hamilton FAQ (Thanks Jeffrey) where he says he removes the
        > side rods from the wheel sets to reseat his gears.... do you do
        this as
        > well? I would think this runs a really high chance of bending a
        side rod
        > or the rod's holding pin.
        >
        > I imagine this is how they are initially assembled at the factory,
        as
        > attempting to install the gears with the side rods in place just
        > wouldn't be a cost effective method. Are the side rod's holding pins
        > just snug fit, or are they actually some type of rivet that expands
        and
        > locks itself in place in the wheel?
        >
        > If you do remove the side rods, how do you remove the holding pins
        in
        > those rods?
        >
        > Since I posted this question last night, I have reseated the gears
        (a
        > few times!) and the loco is actually running smoother at low (app.
        1.2
        > volts) speeds than it did out of the box. Still, if there's a way to
        > more effective way to do this I'd like to know.
        >
        > Thanks,
        > John
        > http://www.ztrains.com
      • uptoolateny
        Hi Kim, As I write this I m in the process of following your instructions. I have to wait a moment for the old soldering iron to heat as I accidently broke one
        Message 3 of 9 , Apr 2 12:55 PM
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          Hi Kim,

          As I write this I'm in the process of following your instructions. I have to wait a moment for the old soldering iron
          to heat as I accidently broke one of the capicator's solder joints as I was seating the gears! I use David Karp's
          method of removing and replacing the motor on a steam engine so normally I don't need any soldering, I just
          slip the new motor onto the exsisting capacitor.

          One thing I have noticed, after lining up the side rods very evenly, I can turn the loco chassis around and see
          that the side rods on the opposite side are not all sitting in quite as nice a horizontal plane. I have run the
          wheels and I don't detect any binding at all. I imagine that fact that the side rods can be perfectly level on one
          side and not quite so perfectly level on the other is just a manufacturing tolerance?

          I'll post back when I'm up and running!

          Thanks Kim,
          John
          http://www.ztrains.com
        • John Cubbin
          Hi Kim, I appreciate your earlier email detailing your method of reseating the gears. As I wrote earlier, I accidentally broke one of the solder joints on the
          Message 4 of 9 , Apr 3 12:26 AM
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            Hi Kim,

            I appreciate your earlier email detailing your method of reseating the
            gears. As I wrote earlier, I accidentally broke one of the solder joints
            on the capacitor when I removed the motor. Having soldered that back in
            place, I went ahead with the gears. After all were in place correctly, I
            found it very tricky to then get everything to slide into place:

            1) The worm gear into the chassis and motor
            2) The ends of the capacitor into both sets of holes in the motor
            3) Making sure the pan on the gears didn't slip while I reassembled

            I did replace the screw on the front of the oil pan, but without that
            rear (pan & motor) screw in place, the pan can still move around a bit
            and one of the gears can slip out of position. After it was all
            assembled I placed it on the track, and the gears were binding
            immediately. Rather than remove the motor again, I removed the entire
            oil pan, and began reseating the gears. Since the worm gear was now in
            place, I followed your idea of starting with the wheel closest to the
            motor. After inserting and adjusting the three wheels, I then added the
            smaller (intermediate?) gears.

            I'd like to be able to say that was it, all ran smoothly, but it ran
            with a decided thump! I'm believe from a excessive push / pull force due
            to the side rods not being aligned just right. Since everything was
            pretty much assembled at this point, I was able to again just quickly
            remove the oil pan, make a minor adjustment to a gear or two, and try
            that out. After a couple of attempts this way, all fell into place
            nicely. The loco has been running for a couple of hours now, without
            question it's running smoother than when I started this whole process. I
            should also note that this is a brand new loco, all of a couple of days
            old. I find that a little puzzling also, but that's a story for another
            day.

            The biggest question I have is the one I mentioned earlier... why, when
            the side rods on one side of the loco are absolutely straight, the rods
            on the other side of the loco are off just a bit. I'm guessing that that
            this is just a manufacturing tolerance. If that is so, then there is a
            bit of tweaking to be done to maximize a loco's (every loco's)
            performance?

            It's been a fun project, and the 4-6-2 is running great....

            Again thanks for your advice here!

            John
            http://www.ztrains.com
          • John Engbers
            In the PROTOTYPE THE siderods have to be off center or the engine will get stuck. The local Shortline, Middletown and New Jersey had that problem with one of
            Message 5 of 9 , Apr 3 5:32 AM
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              In the PROTOTYPE THE siderods have to be off center or the engine will get stuck. The local Shortline, Middletown and New Jersey had that problem with one of their steamers. Regards, John Engbers.
              ----- Original Message -----
              From: John Cubbin
              To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 3:26 AM
              Subject: [z_scale] Re: Any Good Tips For Reseating Gears, 4-6-2


              Hi Kim,

              I appreciate your earlier email detailing your method of reseating the
              gears. As I wrote earlier, I accidentally broke one of the solder joints
              on the capacitor when I removed the motor. Having soldered that back in
              place, I went ahead with the gears. After all were in place correctly, I
              found it very tricky to then get everything to slide into place:

              1) The worm gear into the chassis and motor
              2) The ends of the capacitor into both sets of holes in the motor
              3) Making sure the pan on the gears didn't slip while I reassembled

              I did replace the screw on the front of the oil pan, but without that
              rear (pan & motor) screw in place, the pan can still move around a bit
              and one of the gears can slip out of position. After it was all
              assembled I placed it on the track, and the gears were binding
              immediately. Rather than remove the motor again, I removed the entire
              oil pan, and began reseating the gears. Since the worm gear was now in
              place, I followed your idea of starting with the wheel closest to the
              motor. After inserting and adjusting the three wheels, I then added the
              smaller (intermediate?) gears.

              I'd like to be able to say that was it, all ran smoothly, but it ran
              with a decided thump! I'm believe from a excessive push / pull force due
              to the side rods not being aligned just right. Since everything was
              pretty much assembled at this point, I was able to again just quickly
              remove the oil pan, make a minor adjustment to a gear or two, and try
              that out. After a couple of attempts this way, all fell into place
              nicely. The loco has been running for a couple of hours now, without
              question it's running smoother than when I started this whole process. I
              should also note that this is a brand new loco, all of a couple of days
              old. I find that a little puzzling also, but that's a story for another
              day.

              The biggest question I have is the one I mentioned earlier... why, when
              the side rods on one side of the loco are absolutely straight, the rods
              on the other side of the loco are off just a bit. I'm guessing that that
              this is just a manufacturing tolerance. If that is so, then there is a
              bit of tweaking to be done to maximize a loco's (every loco's)
              performance?

              It's been a fun project, and the 4-6-2 is running great....

              Again thanks for your advice here!

              John
              http://www.ztrains.com


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