Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

Re: Any Good Tips For Reseating Gears, 4-6-2

Expand Messages
  • John Cubbin
    Hi Dan, I d like to ask you a question on this gear reseating business. I read the Garth Hamilton FAQ (Thanks Jeffrey) where he says he removes the side rods
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 2, 2003
      Hi Dan,

      I'd like to ask you a question on this gear reseating business. I read
      the Garth Hamilton FAQ (Thanks Jeffrey) where he says he removes the
      side rods from the wheel sets to reseat his gears.... do you do this as
      well? I would think this runs a really high chance of bending a side rod
      or the rod's holding pin.

      I imagine this is how they are initially assembled at the factory, as
      attempting to install the gears with the side rods in place just
      wouldn't be a cost effective method. Are the side rod's holding pins
      just snug fit, or are they actually some type of rivet that expands and
      locks itself in place in the wheel?

      If you do remove the side rods, how do you remove the holding pins in
      those rods?

      Since I posted this question last night, I have reseated the gears (a
      few times!) and the loco is actually running smoother at low (app. 1.2
      volts) speeds than it did out of the box. Still, if there's a way to
      more effective way to do this I'd like to know.

      Thanks,
      John
      http://www.ztrains.com
    • superchip62
      Hi guys, I had good reason to pull apart my 2-10-0 Loco the other night (8884) and It was real fun! trying to reset all the cogs and stuff! I found that by
      Message 2 of 9 , Apr 2, 2003
        Hi guys, I had good reason to pull apart my 2-10-0 Loco the other
        night (8884) and It was real fun! trying to reset all the cogs and
        stuff! I found that by lifting the individual axle and jiggling it
        the wheels could be made to align. As a reference I set the front
        wheel counterbalance at a determined point (i.e 12 o'clock) then
        gently lifted the others in turn to align as above. In some cases I
        had to remove the intermedeate cog and the pop it back. The biggest
        gripe was the weel contacts that would pop out if the axle was
        lifted too high. You need a fair bit of patience, infact a lot of
        patience, and the ability to hold your breath for long periods!!

        So nice to have a part

        Nick (UK)






        --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, John Cubbin <jcubbin@o...> wrote:
        > Hi,
        >
        > I've been playing a bit with a 4-6-2 Pacific and have had a heck
        of a
        > time getting the gears to really sit well. I have aligned the side
        rods
        > so they are all level, yet many times upon attempting to run the
        loco,
        > the gears would bind up almost immediately. More than once I would
        > reseat the gears and there would be a pronounced "thump" as the
        train
        > ran. The subtleties involved here are really surprising me.
        >
        > Does anyone have a preferred method for reseating the gears cleanly
        > right off the bat, or is this just a matter of playing with the
        gears
        > until they mesh just so? I haven't run into this with any of my
        #8803s,
        > they seem to fall right into place, but this 4-6-2 Pacific is a
        good
        > deal more challenging.
        >
        > Any thoughts or tips appreciated.
        >
        > Thanks,
        > John
        > http://www.ztrains.com
      • kimvellore
        John, Dont remove the side rods because it goes back to the same location after you remove it and will not help if misalligned. I remove and install the gears
        Message 3 of 9 , Apr 2, 2003
          John,
          Dont remove the side rods because it goes back to the same
          location after you remove it and will not help if misalligned.

          I remove and install the gears all the time it takes me a few minutes
          to put it back together. I will try to explain the way I do it.

          First remove the motor and the worm gear if there are any in between
          the motor and the wheels.

          Now you can spin the wheels freely to check if it is binding or not.
          I will start with all the gears removed.

          First install the three gears with the wheels and side rods and
          allign the side rods so they are straight.

          Now you have two more gears to install in between. Start with the end
          closest to the motor and keeping one wheel fixed (the last one close
          to the motor) insert the gear in between. you will see the center
          wheel turn a little during the process, this is the amount of
          missalignment. Now still keeping the last wheel fixed spin the center
          wheeel in the opposite direction the center gear will come out from
          its location when you do this continue to spin in the same direction
          so it slips one or two gear sprocket with respect to the center gear.
          Spin the center wheel back so the three gears are set (you still have
          to keep the last wheel from spinning) and the side rods are still
          straight and free.

          Repeat the same process now keeping the center wheel fixed. You will
          get a hang of it after you get it right once. now put back the gear
          cover (oil pan?) and spin the wheels to make sure there is no
          binding. if there is it is usually the last wheel you worked on so
          repear the process of alligning the gear till it is set right.

          If you still have problems I can make up some pictures and describe
          it.
          Kim



          --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, John Cubbin <jcubbin@o...> wrote:
          > Hi Dan,
          >
          > I'd like to ask you a question on this gear reseating business. I
          read
          > the Garth Hamilton FAQ (Thanks Jeffrey) where he says he removes the
          > side rods from the wheel sets to reseat his gears.... do you do
          this as
          > well? I would think this runs a really high chance of bending a
          side rod
          > or the rod's holding pin.
          >
          > I imagine this is how they are initially assembled at the factory,
          as
          > attempting to install the gears with the side rods in place just
          > wouldn't be a cost effective method. Are the side rod's holding pins
          > just snug fit, or are they actually some type of rivet that expands
          and
          > locks itself in place in the wheel?
          >
          > If you do remove the side rods, how do you remove the holding pins
          in
          > those rods?
          >
          > Since I posted this question last night, I have reseated the gears
          (a
          > few times!) and the loco is actually running smoother at low (app.
          1.2
          > volts) speeds than it did out of the box. Still, if there's a way to
          > more effective way to do this I'd like to know.
          >
          > Thanks,
          > John
          > http://www.ztrains.com
        • uptoolateny
          Hi Kim, As I write this I m in the process of following your instructions. I have to wait a moment for the old soldering iron to heat as I accidently broke one
          Message 4 of 9 , Apr 2, 2003
            Hi Kim,

            As I write this I'm in the process of following your instructions. I have to wait a moment for the old soldering iron
            to heat as I accidently broke one of the capicator's solder joints as I was seating the gears! I use David Karp's
            method of removing and replacing the motor on a steam engine so normally I don't need any soldering, I just
            slip the new motor onto the exsisting capacitor.

            One thing I have noticed, after lining up the side rods very evenly, I can turn the loco chassis around and see
            that the side rods on the opposite side are not all sitting in quite as nice a horizontal plane. I have run the
            wheels and I don't detect any binding at all. I imagine that fact that the side rods can be perfectly level on one
            side and not quite so perfectly level on the other is just a manufacturing tolerance?

            I'll post back when I'm up and running!

            Thanks Kim,
            John
            http://www.ztrains.com
          • John Cubbin
            Hi Kim, I appreciate your earlier email detailing your method of reseating the gears. As I wrote earlier, I accidentally broke one of the solder joints on the
            Message 5 of 9 , Apr 3, 2003
              Hi Kim,

              I appreciate your earlier email detailing your method of reseating the
              gears. As I wrote earlier, I accidentally broke one of the solder joints
              on the capacitor when I removed the motor. Having soldered that back in
              place, I went ahead with the gears. After all were in place correctly, I
              found it very tricky to then get everything to slide into place:

              1) The worm gear into the chassis and motor
              2) The ends of the capacitor into both sets of holes in the motor
              3) Making sure the pan on the gears didn't slip while I reassembled

              I did replace the screw on the front of the oil pan, but without that
              rear (pan & motor) screw in place, the pan can still move around a bit
              and one of the gears can slip out of position. After it was all
              assembled I placed it on the track, and the gears were binding
              immediately. Rather than remove the motor again, I removed the entire
              oil pan, and began reseating the gears. Since the worm gear was now in
              place, I followed your idea of starting with the wheel closest to the
              motor. After inserting and adjusting the three wheels, I then added the
              smaller (intermediate?) gears.

              I'd like to be able to say that was it, all ran smoothly, but it ran
              with a decided thump! I'm believe from a excessive push / pull force due
              to the side rods not being aligned just right. Since everything was
              pretty much assembled at this point, I was able to again just quickly
              remove the oil pan, make a minor adjustment to a gear or two, and try
              that out. After a couple of attempts this way, all fell into place
              nicely. The loco has been running for a couple of hours now, without
              question it's running smoother than when I started this whole process. I
              should also note that this is a brand new loco, all of a couple of days
              old. I find that a little puzzling also, but that's a story for another
              day.

              The biggest question I have is the one I mentioned earlier... why, when
              the side rods on one side of the loco are absolutely straight, the rods
              on the other side of the loco are off just a bit. I'm guessing that that
              this is just a manufacturing tolerance. If that is so, then there is a
              bit of tweaking to be done to maximize a loco's (every loco's)
              performance?

              It's been a fun project, and the 4-6-2 is running great....

              Again thanks for your advice here!

              John
              http://www.ztrains.com
            • John Engbers
              In the PROTOTYPE THE siderods have to be off center or the engine will get stuck. The local Shortline, Middletown and New Jersey had that problem with one of
              Message 6 of 9 , Apr 3, 2003
                In the PROTOTYPE THE siderods have to be off center or the engine will get stuck. The local Shortline, Middletown and New Jersey had that problem with one of their steamers. Regards, John Engbers.
                ----- Original Message -----
                From: John Cubbin
                To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 3:26 AM
                Subject: [z_scale] Re: Any Good Tips For Reseating Gears, 4-6-2


                Hi Kim,

                I appreciate your earlier email detailing your method of reseating the
                gears. As I wrote earlier, I accidentally broke one of the solder joints
                on the capacitor when I removed the motor. Having soldered that back in
                place, I went ahead with the gears. After all were in place correctly, I
                found it very tricky to then get everything to slide into place:

                1) The worm gear into the chassis and motor
                2) The ends of the capacitor into both sets of holes in the motor
                3) Making sure the pan on the gears didn't slip while I reassembled

                I did replace the screw on the front of the oil pan, but without that
                rear (pan & motor) screw in place, the pan can still move around a bit
                and one of the gears can slip out of position. After it was all
                assembled I placed it on the track, and the gears were binding
                immediately. Rather than remove the motor again, I removed the entire
                oil pan, and began reseating the gears. Since the worm gear was now in
                place, I followed your idea of starting with the wheel closest to the
                motor. After inserting and adjusting the three wheels, I then added the
                smaller (intermediate?) gears.

                I'd like to be able to say that was it, all ran smoothly, but it ran
                with a decided thump! I'm believe from a excessive push / pull force due
                to the side rods not being aligned just right. Since everything was
                pretty much assembled at this point, I was able to again just quickly
                remove the oil pan, make a minor adjustment to a gear or two, and try
                that out. After a couple of attempts this way, all fell into place
                nicely. The loco has been running for a couple of hours now, without
                question it's running smoother than when I started this whole process. I
                should also note that this is a brand new loco, all of a couple of days
                old. I find that a little puzzling also, but that's a story for another
                day.

                The biggest question I have is the one I mentioned earlier... why, when
                the side rods on one side of the loco are absolutely straight, the rods
                on the other side of the loco are off just a bit. I'm guessing that that
                this is just a manufacturing tolerance. If that is so, then there is a
                bit of tweaking to be done to maximize a loco's (every loco's)
                performance?

                It's been a fun project, and the 4-6-2 is running great....

                Again thanks for your advice here!

                John
                http://www.ztrains.com


                Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
                ADVERTISEMENT




                "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


                Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.