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Re: [z_scale] on soldering

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  • Tim Maxwell
    ... A point not often noted is the condition of the tip. I ve seen where people recommend using a well tinned, shiny tip to solder with. This is of course
    Message 1 of 3 , Apr 2, 2000
      Jay & Anne Greer wrote:

      > From: Jay & Anne Greer <redwitch1@...>
      > Hi Ole,
      > Usually solder joint failure can be traced to a dirty surface or lack of
      > high enough temperature on the mating surfaces to create solder flow. Try
      > first, Tinning the PC material with a small amount of solder. If direct
      > heat from your iron on the pc surface does not create a smooth flow of
      > solder then try cleaning the surface with Naptha, Lighter Fluid, Acetone or
      > Either on a rag,followed by a light sanding with 400 of 600 grit wet or dry
      > paper to remove any oxidation. Acetone and Either will melt plastic and all
      > solvents should be used only with adequate ventilation and away from any
      > open flame or sparking or you might join the Space Shuttle in orbit.
      > Dancing silver beads on the surface usually is an indication of a dirty
      > surface so give this one a try and keep us informed. Dirty rail contact
      > surface could be the culprit here too! Stay away from acid based flux at all
      > costs! I use the resistance soldering system markedted by <PBl> they market
      > Sn3 models and tools. They have a web site.

      A point not often noted is the condition of the tip. I've seen where people
      recommend using a "well tinned, shiny tip" to solder with. This is of course
      good advice. However, putting the tip "to bed" at the end of the solder session
      is something different. I recommend that you always put the solder tip away
      "Dirty". The tip should have a good coating, glob really, of solder on it prior
      to shutting down. This often runs contrary to common advice, but try it. What
      you will see is that when the tip reaches proper temperature, you can then swipe
      the tip on a solder pad cleaner. You will get an instant clean tip. No cleaning
      necessary. Between uses, or when allowing the tip to cool, remember to re cover
      the tip with solder, enough to form a "gob". In the years that I have used my
      solder tips, I have never had to replace them from the damage resulting from
      excessive scrubbing, or cleaning.

      The other tip I would recommend is to utilize a pencil eraser to clean solder
      work to a shiny condition, and to dip items to be soldered in liquid rosin. This
      can be applied accurately in advance and results in quicker, more solid joints.
      The flux found in the solder rarity does a good job alone completely. Quick,
      solid joints also keep heat down and result in less damage to plastic ties.
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