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Catch Up

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  • sutfin
    Hi all you Z ers, Finally getting the time to catch up on many weeks of Z_list messages, and thought I d make belated comments on some of the ones I can
    Message 1 of 2 , Mar 31, 2000
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      Hi all you Z'ers,

      Finally getting the time to catch up on many weeks of Z_list messages,
      and thought I'd make belated comments on some of the ones I can
      remember. Boy, what a diverse interest we all have in our FAVORITE
      modeling scale. When you read such a collection all at once you realize
      just how extensive our interests, needs, and experience are.

      First, Ole, you really need to keep on writing. You could publish a
      booklet or even a book on your experiences and I'm sure it would be a
      best seller. Might even pay for your modeling costs. As I was going
      through the messages, found myself looking for the next one from you. My
      hat's off to you for tackling handlaying your track. Sure takes the
      dedication and perseverance that I don't have. Guess I'll just have to
      stick to Marklin, Peco, or MicroTrains attempts at realistic track. That
      is until you start selling your version of Z track. Let us know when
      you're ready to accept orders.

      Somewhere way back in time, there was some discussion of the Rogue
      GP38-2. I had one of the first issues, which everyone, including Don
      Bouchard seems to feel were not the best runners. Don had suggested a
      break-in period for it which I followed. Ran about 1/2 throttle for
      about 2 hours in one direction, then 1/2 throttle in the reverse
      direction for another 2 hours. After that, had no problems with its
      running that I could discern. It ran hour after hour pulling long
      strings of cars at train shows, and I was a happy camper. Don saw it
      running at a show in Dec. '98 and wasn't pleased, and offered to replace
      it with a newer model. Unfortunately, Rogue went out of business before
      it was returned. But anyway, I now have 2 of the latest models they put
      out, and once again I went through the break-in process. They are the
      smoothest, quietest running locos I have, or have seen in Z. Great
      little engines which I WILL NOT part with. If anyone has a Rogue that
      you are not pleased with, let me know, I'm interested.

      As Bob Kluz mentioned in one of his messages, the Rogue Dash 9 is one of
      the best examples of brass engine work you'll find. Several of us in the
      Pacific Northwest placed orders with Rogue and are anxiously awaiting
      their appearance from Ajin. If they run as well as they look, and as
      well as the GP38s, they'll definitely be keepers.

      Another item of discussion was how to ballast track. Saw lots of answers
      that should have all worked. However, one little change that I found
      works best for me is the dilution of white glue. I 'wet' the ballast
      with isopropyl alcohol, then apply several applications of glue, diluted
      1 part glue to 3-4 parts of water. I've found that the greater dilution
      seems to let the glue penetrate better, then follow it up with a couple
      more applications. Haven't had any problems with lost or broken ballast
      after several years of carting modules to train shows.

      I'll throw another 2 cents in on the Pennzee hoppers. If you haven't
      gotten yours yet, what are you waiting for? Great addition to the world
      of Z, and we need to continue to support the independents such as
      Pennzee, Rogue, Miller Engineering, Micron-Art, E-Z Structures, and all
      the rest.

      A last comment for this epistle. Sure glad to see all the interest and
      information you are contributing regarding DCC operation in Z. I haven't
      explored that area yet, but with the rest of you testing the waters,
      guess I'll have to join in one of these days.

      Happy Z modeling

      Terry Sutfin
    • Ole Rosted
      ... [snip] Thank you for your kind words and support. [snip] ... I will :-)) But you should not wait for this to happen. Right now I have one 6 inch-track -
      Message 2 of 2 , Apr 1, 2000
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        On Fri, 31 Mar 2000 15:17:46 -0800, sutfin@... wrote:

        >First, Ole, you really need to keep on writing. You could publish a

        [snip]

        Thank you for your kind words and support.

        [snip]

        > That is until you start selling your version of Z track. Let us know when
        >you're ready to accept orders.

        I will :-)) But you should not wait for this to happen. Right now I
        have one 6 inch-track - built with a wrong tie spacing because of
        doubts about the way to lay ties. I guess that I will have another 6
        inches ready in about a week. Then all I'll have to do is to make app
        80 ft more.
        I have just drawn and printed the templates for my new tracks in
        Corel.
        When I start building "for real" I will use the wonderful 3rdPlanIt
        software to design the layout and print the templates.

        If I succeed in building track segments of arbitrary length "in situ"
        based on pre-built one-rail skeleton sections - the guy on the
        fielder-rowe site claims it can be done - my layout may be finished
        in the first half of this century.

        >Another item of discussion was how to ballast track. Saw lots of answers
        >that should have all worked. However, one little change that I found
        >works best for me is the dilution of white glue. I 'wet' the ballast
        >with isopropyl alcohol, then apply several applications of glue, diluted
        >1 part glue to 3-4 parts of water. I've found that the greater dilution
        >seems to let the glue penetrate better, then follow it up with a couple
        >more applications. Haven't had any problems with lost or broken ballast
        >after several years of carting modules to train shows.

        As soon as I have the next short track section ready I will try this
        method. No need to make a lot of track without knowing if good-looking
        balasting will be possible. I haven't been able to follow this ballast
        thread but I will take a closer look in my mail-box right away.

        regards Ole Rosted, Denmark
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