- Hi all you Z'ers,
Finally getting the time to catch up on many weeks of Z_list messages,
and thought I'd make belated comments on some of the ones I can
remember. Boy, what a diverse interest we all have in our FAVORITE
modeling scale. When you read such a collection all at once you realize
just how extensive our interests, needs, and experience are.
First, Ole, you really need to keep on writing. You could publish a
booklet or even a book on your experiences and I'm sure it would be a
best seller. Might even pay for your modeling costs. As I was going
through the messages, found myself looking for the next one from you. My
hat's off to you for tackling handlaying your track. Sure takes the
dedication and perseverance that I don't have. Guess I'll just have to
stick to Marklin, Peco, or MicroTrains attempts at realistic track. That
is until you start selling your version of Z track. Let us know when
you're ready to accept orders.
Somewhere way back in time, there was some discussion of the Rogue
GP38-2. I had one of the first issues, which everyone, including Don
Bouchard seems to feel were not the best runners. Don had suggested a
break-in period for it which I followed. Ran about 1/2 throttle for
about 2 hours in one direction, then 1/2 throttle in the reverse
direction for another 2 hours. After that, had no problems with its
running that I could discern. It ran hour after hour pulling long
strings of cars at train shows, and I was a happy camper. Don saw it
running at a show in Dec. '98 and wasn't pleased, and offered to replace
it with a newer model. Unfortunately, Rogue went out of business before
it was returned. But anyway, I now have 2 of the latest models they put
out, and once again I went through the break-in process. They are the
smoothest, quietest running locos I have, or have seen in Z. Great
little engines which I WILL NOT part with. If anyone has a Rogue that
you are not pleased with, let me know, I'm interested.
As Bob Kluz mentioned in one of his messages, the Rogue Dash 9 is one of
the best examples of brass engine work you'll find. Several of us in the
Pacific Northwest placed orders with Rogue and are anxiously awaiting
their appearance from Ajin. If they run as well as they look, and as
well as the GP38s, they'll definitely be keepers.
Another item of discussion was how to ballast track. Saw lots of answers
that should have all worked. However, one little change that I found
works best for me is the dilution of white glue. I 'wet' the ballast
with isopropyl alcohol, then apply several applications of glue, diluted
1 part glue to 3-4 parts of water. I've found that the greater dilution
seems to let the glue penetrate better, then follow it up with a couple
more applications. Haven't had any problems with lost or broken ballast
after several years of carting modules to train shows.
I'll throw another 2 cents in on the Pennzee hoppers. If you haven't
gotten yours yet, what are you waiting for? Great addition to the world
of Z, and we need to continue to support the independents such as
Pennzee, Rogue, Miller Engineering, Micron-Art, E-Z Structures, and all
A last comment for this epistle. Sure glad to see all the interest and
information you are contributing regarding DCC operation in Z. I haven't
explored that area yet, but with the rest of you testing the waters,
guess I'll have to join in one of these days.
Happy Z modeling
- On Fri, 31 Mar 2000 15:17:46 -0800, sutfin@... wrote:
>First, Ole, you really need to keep on writing. You could publish a[snip]
Thank you for your kind words and support.
> That is until you start selling your version of Z track. Let us know whenI will :-)) But you should not wait for this to happen. Right now I
>you're ready to accept orders.
have one 6 inch-track - built with a wrong tie spacing because of
doubts about the way to lay ties. I guess that I will have another 6
inches ready in about a week. Then all I'll have to do is to make app
80 ft more.
I have just drawn and printed the templates for my new tracks in
When I start building "for real" I will use the wonderful 3rdPlanIt
software to design the layout and print the templates.
If I succeed in building track segments of arbitrary length "in situ"
based on pre-built one-rail skeleton sections - the guy on the
fielder-rowe site claims it can be done - my layout may be finished
in the first half of this century.
>Another item of discussion was how to ballast track. Saw lots of answersAs soon as I have the next short track section ready I will try this
>that should have all worked. However, one little change that I found
>works best for me is the dilution of white glue. I 'wet' the ballast
>with isopropyl alcohol, then apply several applications of glue, diluted
>1 part glue to 3-4 parts of water. I've found that the greater dilution
>seems to let the glue penetrate better, then follow it up with a couple
>more applications. Haven't had any problems with lost or broken ballast
>after several years of carting modules to train shows.
method. No need to make a lot of track without knowing if good-looking
balasting will be possible. I haven't been able to follow this ballast
thread but I will take a closer look in my mail-box right away.
regards Ole Rosted, Denmark