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New Marklin Engine Runs Really Hot!?!

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  • pavementdoc
    A few months ago I bought a new Marklin 88643 (Belgium Class 80 3- axle switch engine). The little thing runs remarkable well...will crawl slowly and quietly
    Message 1 of 5 , Jul 9, 2002
      A few months ago I bought a new Marklin 88643 (Belgium Class 80 3-
      axle switch engine). The little thing runs remarkable well...will
      crawl slowly and quietly in both directions (on clean track).
      However, the part of the metal engine body surrounding the motor gets
      VERY hot after only a few minutes of running time. Gears are clean
      and well oiled. Has anyone else noticed hot running with these
      diecast 3-axle switchers? If so, any suggested fixes? ...or, is this
      a case of "they all do that"...

      Ron
    • John Engbers
      The 5 pole motors are prone to running hot. Get some armature cleaner,, and bearing lube and treat your motors kindly. Regards, John Engbers ... From:
      Message 2 of 5 , Jul 9, 2002
        The 5 pole motors are prone to running hot. Get some armature cleaner,, and bearing lube and treat your motors kindly. Regards, John Engbers
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: pavementdoc
        To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 1:51 PM
        Subject: [z_scale] New Marklin Engine Runs Really Hot!?!


        A few months ago I bought a new Marklin 88643 (Belgium Class 80 3-
        axle switch engine). The little thing runs remarkable well...will
        crawl slowly and quietly in both directions (on clean track).
        However, the part of the metal engine body surrounding the motor gets
        VERY hot after only a few minutes of running time. Gears are clean
        and well oiled. Has anyone else noticed hot running with these
        diecast 3-axle switchers? If so, any suggested fixes? ...or, is this
        a case of "they all do that"...

        Ron


        "Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!


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        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • kimvellore
        I had a switcher that did the same. The problem was when I put the gears together One of the gears was off a tooth. I set it right and it works much cooler
        Message 3 of 5 , Jul 9, 2002
          I had a switcher that did the same. The problem was when I put the
          gears together One of the gears was off a tooth. I set it right and
          it works much cooler now. To find out if any gears are not set right
          just pick up the loco and move the wheels, it should have some play,
          the wheel closest to the motor gear or the wheel that connects or the
          motor gear will have the least play. If all the wheels are tight
          without any play, this could be one of the reason.
          Regards
          Kim



          --- In z_scale@y..., "pavementdoc" <rredpen@c...> wrote:
          > A few months ago I bought a new Marklin 88643 (Belgium Class 80 3-
          > axle switch engine). The little thing runs remarkable well...will
          > crawl slowly and quietly in both directions (on clean track).
          > However, the part of the metal engine body surrounding the motor
          gets
          > VERY hot after only a few minutes of running time. Gears are clean
          > and well oiled. Has anyone else noticed hot running with these
          > diecast 3-axle switchers? If so, any suggested fixes? ...or, is
          this
          > a case of "they all do that"...
          >
          > Ron
        • jeremypbrandon
          ... Firstly, it is not normal for these to run hot. It s a pity you didn t return it and demand a replacement immediately. As Jeffrey reported after his
          Message 4 of 5 , Jul 10, 2002
            --- In z_scale@y..., "pavementdoc" <rredpen@c...> wrote:
            > A few months ago I bought a new Marklin 88643 ...
            > However, the part of the metal engine body surrounding the
            > motor gets VERY hot after only a few minutes of running time.
            > Has anyone else noticed hot running with these switchers?

            Firstly, it is not "normal" for these to run hot. It's a pity you
            didn't return it and demand a replacement immediately. As Jeffrey
            reported after his visit to the Märklin factory, the QA procedure for
            locos is not particularly good (2 seconds at full speed) so rogue
            ones can "slip" through.

            Secondly (assuming you are going to keep it), you have already been
            given good advice:

            > The 5 pole motors are prone to running hot. Get some armature
            > cleaner,, and bearing lube and treat your motors kindly.

            and

            > One of the gears was off a tooth. I set it right and
            > it works much cooler now.

            Thirdly, my two Euro-cents worth:

            Overheating is caused by too much current through the motor, which in
            turn is caused by (a) too many volts, or (b) too much load.

            So my first question is: what controller are you using? If it's
            Märklin or MRC or "pure DC", no problem, but some pulsed controllers
            use a too-high voltage even though the measured voltage is low.

            Assumimg the controller is OK, what about the load? Any loco gets
            hotter pulling a many-axeled train or when going up a grade. Your
            loco gets hot even when running light? So the abnormal load comes
            from within the loco itself. Try this: take the body off carefully,
            and check that the magnet-assembly (the bit that gets really hot) is
            seated properly - press its two brackets down firmly with your
            thumbnails. OK? (A drop of oil on the top bearing helps.) Check that
            the brushes are correctly fitted. OK? Now use a toothpick through the
            top of the magnet to gently turn the armature. Does it turn easily?
            Yes, the problem is probably fixed. No, try to find what is causing
            the obstruction. Hair, fluff, gunge, old oil, bent contacts,
            misaligned gears, and so on. No better? The problem might be under
            the plate underneath the loco, but lots can go wrong when you take
            the plate off! (You will have to remove the plate to reset the gears.)

            I hope this help you find what is causing the overheating. Jeremy.
          • pavementdoc
            Thanks for all the replies. The overheating problem was fixed by resetting gears to maximize slide rod play (thank Kim for this suggestion). When
            Message 5 of 5 , Jul 10, 2002
              Thanks for all the replies. The overheating problem was fixed
              by "resetting" gears to maximize slide rod "play" (thank Kim for this
              suggestion). When delivered I noticed excess oil actually dripping
              from the gear plate underneath the loc into the box. I removed the
              gear plate, cleaned, and re-oiled. As Jeremy suggests, lots can go
              wrong when the gear plate is removed. So I suspect that I caused the
              problem (not Marklin QC - except for the excess oil).

              Of course, when I started tinkering with the gears, there was an
              explosion of axles, wheels, gears, wheel brushes, and couplers.
              Infuriating at first...but, rebuilding one of these little jewels
              from parts and watching it run better than before is one of the great
              joys of Z.

              Ron
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