7609Re: Soldering for dummies?
- Dec 2, 2001Hi Don
>Yes I know, I write way way too much but 1000 words sometimes arei wouldnt say you write way way to much , i would say extremely well
>better than one picture. (not often but sometimes)
explained and accurate in the details, i too have saved this info.
well done, i look forward to more of your descriptions on z subjects
--- In z_scale@y..., Wild Zontar <wildzontar@a...> wrote:
> Hi Don,
> Thanks for coming out of lurk mode to write this. I feel ready to
> from "Soldering for Dummies" to "Soldering for Really Inexperienced
> Amateurs." That's an improvement, right? I'm printing out your e-
> future reference.
> At 13:20 11/30/2001 -0000, you wrote:
> >Hi Z heads
> >I have ben lurking for a while but will give my points on
> >BTW I am a design engineer in the IC business. I also tend to
> >long long posts so feel free to delete at will.
> >Resistance soldering is very nice if you want to spend the bucks.
> >Applies heat to the joint and not to much elsewhere. But we are Z
> >scale and major heat to solder like G scale in my garden layout is
> >needed. If anything a very lightweight soldering iron with a fine
> >or even 1/32 inch tip is more than enough. And a lot cheaper to
> >and maintain. A good 25 watt Weller iron is quite inexpensive and
> >gives even excessive heat for the task.
> >The main points of soldering for dummies is to clean _all_ the
> >very well. No corrosion or water or glue or solder crud. Next use
> >enough flux. For Z track the solder for electrical work (60/40
> >core 24 gauge or smaller) with a flux core is more than good
> >but if you must; then use a tiny dab of a paste or a liquid rosin
> >based flux. Not acid flux unless you can remove all the acid
> >Even then acid flux is a real problem in small work. Very hard to
> >So first you prepair your soldering iron station. This is a place
> >hold the iron while hot so you do not accidentally melt your
> >boxcar or you sit on the iron. Also have a place to hold the wet
> >soldering iron sponge. The sponge you wet till soggy to help clean
> >soldering iron tip.
> >Probably the second most important thing is to melt a bit of
> >the hot tip after the iron is heated up ("tin" the tip) and then
> >the tip on the sponge right before applying heat to the joint.
> >time you solder a joint clean the tip first and sometimes you may
> >to add more solder to the tip. The tip will get oxidized solder
> >burned flux on it as it sits there all hot; and simply wiping it
> >greatly helps soldering small objects.
> >Next apply the freshly cleaned tip to the joint. Try to touch both
> >pieces of the joint but as you gain practice you will heat up the
> >piece with the most mass more so both pieces get to the same
> >temperature at the same time. Be Quick. Touch a tiny bit of solder
> >the joint after the joint is hot and let some solder melt and the
> >to flow. Generally not enough solder to do the complete job but
> >enough to start the flux flowing and it will add more heat to the
> >joint. Once the flux in the joint spreads out and sizzles you then
> >enough solder to make the joint. Keeping the iron on the joint and
> >moving the joint then gently remove the iron tip. Do not move the
> >joint for a few seconds for the solder to harden. Once you gain
> >confidence with adding of solder to the joint it becomes so
> >and you may not really notice a slight pause as you add all the
> >solder once the flux bubbles.
> >If you did a good joint it will be shiny and uniformly smooth and
> >have lumps of solder or rough areas. If the joint is grainy or
> >then you have a bad joint and need to start over again. Wait till
> >joint is cool to start over. IF you had kept on adding heat to fix
> >problem things will melt you probably did not wish to melt. If
> >is not too much solder and it is grainy you can reheat the joint
> >then gently remove the heat again. If it is still grainy then
> >all up and start over for something was not fully cleaned and
> >Pre-tinning of stranded wires helps if you are soldering to
> >boards and track. You simply heat and add solder to just get the
> >stripped part of the wire with a smooth flowing coat. Not enough
> >completly encase the individual wire strands but just enough to
> >it all together so you can bend it into its final resting
> >you add too much solder when tinning wires it will flow up into
> >area covered by insulation or worse melt the insulation. Ideally
> >solder should stop flowing up the wire a bit before the insulation
> >removed and you can still flex it.
> >The real key to good soldering is Practice. Just enough heat and
> >just enough time for the mass of the metal pieces. Too hot an iron
> >it is hard to learn to solder for you need to be so very quick. So
> >45 watt iron is overkill. A 25 watt iron is good for most things
> >for some Z things it may be too hot as well. The problem is not
> >wattage but really your speed at doing the joint. A lower wattage
> >smaller tip will allow you more time to do the joint and then to
> >enough practice so you can eventually do that same joint with more
> >heat and faster. You do not want to pop a printed circuit board
> >off the board with too much heat. You also do not want to melt
> >track all out of gauge.
> >Last thing is after the last joint is done, power down the
> >iron and as it cools melt some solder on the tip. This protects
> >tip and helps keep it clean for the next time you need to use the
> >Yes I know, I write way way too much but 1000 words sometimes are
> >better than one picture. (not often but sometimes)
> >Don Smith
> >"Z" WARNING! HANDLE WITH CARE! Highly addictive in Small DoseZ!
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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