49601Re: sending photos
- Dec 9, 2006Tom,
Thanks for your detailed info. I understood it well enough to get one
of my 1.5 MB photos down to 250K. I then did the Save to Web option
and it dropped to 100K. In both cases, the resolution on my monitor
was better than what I had achieved earlier. And now I am going back
to the Photoshop book I have and learn some more. Thanks again.
On Thu Dec 7, 2006 7:17 pm (PST)
"Thomas Scheuzger" tscheuzger@... wrote:
FYI, the native resolution of a Windows monitor is 96 dpi, and a Mac is 72 dpi.
Ell, you are correct that when you reduce the file size, you throw
away data. SInce you have Photoshop, the best thing to do is to look
at your original picture as actual pixels (Apple/Option/0 on a Mac;
Alt/Ctrl/0 on a PC). Select the marquee tool, and under the tool
options, you have three choices: Normal, Fixed Ratio, or Fixed Size.
Set the Fixed Ratio to 4:3 (if you want to select all or most of the
original), or Fixed Size to 800 px X 600 px. Fixed Ratio will give
you the proper aspect for the 800 x 600 maximum file size (so you
could set your crop frame to show the areas of best detail), whereas
Fixed Size will give you what's called a 100% crop - a single 800 x
600 rectangle at the resolution of your original).
You could do a couple different 100% crops of the same photo,
featuring different areas of your original. Then go in to Image Size
and change your resolution to either 72 or 96, then reset the pixels
to 800 x 600 (make sure the "constrain proportions" box is checked.
Also, the Bilinear algorithm is actually better than the default
Bicubic algorithm when reducing file size, and vice versa when
enlarging. You'll notice that the file size remains the same as your
original crop when you reset the dpi AND change the pixel dimensions,
but now you've got an enlargement at the same resolution as the
original. If there are smaller areas that look good at full size
(i.e. actual pixels), but lose definition at smaller sizes, your
better off creating a couple 100% crops of the smaller areas and use
a reduced full frame version as a way to show the overall scene.
One last thing - the save for web tool is ok, but it's really no
better than doing what I've described. Also, the jpeg format is
strictly for photos, but over time has become bastardized by people
who don't know better and has become a catch all for any kind of
picture file. GIF (Graphic Interchange Format) format is only for
GRAPHICS that use less than 256 colors.
Hope that makes sense - it's been a long day and I'm a bit road
weary, so hopefully what I've said makes sense.
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