15173Re: [z_scale] First Post
- Jul 1, 2003Manfred:
>You are correct. There are several solutions to operating lamps at reduced
> Wouldn't a reostat in line with one of the leads allow you to adjust the
> voltage and brightness of the lamps as well?
1 - A separate AC or DC transformer
2 - A rheostat (of high wattage, not a simple "potentiometer")
3 - Series full wave diode bridges (1.7v drop per shorted bridge)
4 - A cheap power pack, using the DC throttle
5 - Wiring lamps is series or series/parallel circuits (maybe not for
Most of the small to medium size layouts don't have a lot of room for extra
packs, I am guessing. Folks may only want the track pack, and nothing else
on/around the layout. Solution 3 takes up the least room (and cost), with
solution 2 right behind it. Buying overvoltage lamps takes no extra parts (or time)
(only my opinions follow, fame suit is in place):
The key is extending lamp life and reducing temperatures. The fringe benefit
is the very slight shift in color toward yellow to trick the eye into seeing
"model lighting" different from room lighting.
LED's work, but most yellow LEDs are really yellow, perhaps too yellow to
represent filament type interior lighting. It does represent sodium based street
lighting just fine. White LEDs work, but they are super bright and
expensive, which might be a consideration. Color correction of white LEDs might be
something to consider also.
Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. Not everyone has the same level of
talent, or time.
PS to Scott Whitmire: You should have never posted the URL on the source of
tiny tubing and lighting accessories. Cost me $50 on a web-placed order last
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