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Another gear-oil conversation...

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  • OilBurner
    So i changed my gear oil when i first bought the car. Thinking i was doing the best possible thing for it, i purchased and filled the transmission with
    Message 1 of 4 , Sep 6, 2012
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    So i changed my gear oil when i first bought the car. Thinking i was
    doing the best possible thing for it, i purchased and filled the
    transmission with Valvoline SYNPOWER full-synthetic 75w-90 gear oil. I
    think i have now realized that this was the incorrect thing to use...the
    manual says "do not use EP or Hypoid oils in the transaxle" But i think
    that may be what the valvoline is...im now aware that the sulfer
    addatives in EP oil are bad for the sycros...and i know the stuff STINKS
    like sulfer...but im still confused...the bottle also says "compatible
    with conventional gear lubricants" and "recommended for use in manual
    transmissions where API GL-5 or MT-1 fluid is specified"

    All the info on the oil, and in the Yugo manual is vague...thus my
    confusion...

    all im really worried about is if i have done any damage to the
    transmission by running this oil in it, and if i should change the fluid
    immediately?

    I am having no problems with the transmission. shifts fine, sounds
    normal. however (this may be normal) i have noticed it doesn't like to
    be downshifted into 3rd gear at speeds above 35MPH (will grind). and the
    slight input shaft noise/rattle idling in neutral with foot off clutch,
    which it was doing since i got the car even with the original oil, and
    hasn't gotten worse.

    I also removed the oil fill plug and let a little run out just to
    check it today, and MIGHT have noticed some very small filings in the
    oil...more like fine dust really.. I think this may be normal, or maybe
    im just seeing things and am paranoid...? I was going to drain it out,
    strain it and put it back...but then i figured id better double check
    everything.

    I have only driven about 3 or 4000 miles since i replaced the transaxle
    oil in May of 2011.





    As a side note, im thinking its engine oil change time again aswell...i
    changed that at the same time as the gear oil, with full-synthetic
    20w-50 oil as what the manual states...so its probably not due yet...but
    it couldn't hurt could it? and would a lighter oil be better or should i
    stick with the 20w-50?



    I have attached the info sheet for the Valvoline synpower gear oil i
    used, which i downloaded from there website. for everybodys information...
  • Art Hughes
    The product sheet for the oil is for rear axle cars. Any metion of Extreme Pressure protection is for hypoid gears, as a rear wheel drive car would use in
    Message 2 of 4 , Sep 6, 2012
    • 0 Attachment
      The product sheet for the oil is for rear axle cars. Any metion of "Extreme Pressure" protection is for hypoid gears, as a rear wheel drive car would use in the differential.
      Just drain it out and don't worry. Make sure you use a Syn oil that is rated/compatiable (Gear Oil) for use in Transmissions.
      The Syn gear oil may be shown as a lighter weight. (O'Reilly Auto Parts part# 80054)
      Modern oil in an engine that is in normal condition can be 10W40, 10W50, year round, except where "0" are normal winter
       temps.
      5w30 can be used at zero and below, changed out as soon as it gets warmer outside, and best not used for long highway use.
      20W50 is a little too slow to lube on cold starts under 25 degrees, and makes the battery/starter work harder. Down toward Zero, you may not start in the AM, as it's like molasses.
      Use a Syn engine oil, but something heavier than 5W.... Can't remember the next heavier, think it's 15W something.
      Full Syn oil will gain gas mileage and power, if used in both trans and engine.
      Valvoline is a good brand. I used all Valvoline Syn in my race car, engine, trans, and rear axle, for 5 seasons. No failures in the engine, oil pressure more stable, water temp down 5 degrees, huge decrease in quick change rear axle temps.
       
      Art Hughes  Columbus, Ohio  USA
       
       Visit   www.wvaanne.com   Art's List of Family Connections, WV Rt  87
                           Genealogy in Jackson and Mason Counties, WV
       
                                          



      From: OilBurner <highvoltage@...>
      To: yugounitedgvowners2@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Thu, September 6, 2012 4:57:14 PM
      Subject: [YugoUnitedGVOwners] Another gear-oil conversation... [1 Attachment]

       

      So i changed my gear oil when i first bought the car. Thinking i was
      doing the best possible thing for it, i purchased and filled the
      transmission with Valvoline SYNPOWER full-synthetic 75w-90 gear oil. I
      think i have now realized that this was the incorrect thing to use...the
      manual says "do not use EP or Hypoid oils in the transaxle" But i think
      that may be what the valvoline is...im now aware that the sulfer
      addatives in EP oil are bad for the sycros...and i know the stuff STINKS
      like sulfer...but im still confused...the bottle also says "compatible
      with conventional gear lubricants" and "recommended for use in manual
      transmissions where API GL-5 or MT-1 fluid is specified"

      All the info on the oil, and in the Yugo manual is vague...thus my
      confusion...

      all im really worried about is if i have done any damage to the
      transmission by running this oil in it, and if i should change the fluid
      immediately?

      I am having no problems with the transmission. shifts fine, sounds
      normal. however (this may be normal) i have noticed it doesn't like to
      be downshifted into 3rd gear at speeds above 35MPH (will grind). and the
      slight input shaft noise/rattle idling in neutral with foot off clutch,
      which it was doing since i got the car even with the original oil, and
      hasn't gotten worse.

      I also removed the oil fill plug and let a little run out just to
      check it today, and MIGHT have noticed some very small filings in the
      oil...more like fine dust really.. I think this may be normal, or maybe
      im just seeing things and am paranoid...? I was going to drain it out,
      strain it and put it back...but then i figured id better double check
      everything.

      I have only driven about 3 or 4000 miles since i replaced the transaxle
      oil in May of 2011.

      As a side note, im thinking its engine oil change time again aswell...i
      changed that at the same time as the gear oil, with full-synthetic
      20w-50 oil as what the manual states...so its probably not due yet...but
      it couldn't hurt could it? and would a lighter oil be better or should i
      stick with the 20w-50?

      I have attached the info sheet for the Valvoline synpower gear oil i
      used, which i downloaded from there website. for everybodys information...

    • OilBurner
      This goes along with everything that i have been reading...EP oil is bad for synchros...but im puzzled...why does the manual for my Toyota say EP/Hypoid oil IS
      Message 3 of 4 , Sep 6, 2012
      • 0 Attachment
        This goes along with everything that i have been reading...EP oil is bad for synchros...but im puzzled...why does the manual for my Toyota say EP/Hypoid oil IS supposed to be used in the gearbox? both are obviously synchromesh transmissions...Is it because the different makes of transmissions use different metals for the synchros? Bronze vs brass? do the EP additives/sulfur affect one but not the other? what metal does the yugos trans use for the synchros if anybody actually knows?

        Also, does Valvoline even make non hypoid gear oil? i dont remember seeing any...and i think the only thing any of the local auto shops sell is various hypoid gear oils..

        I have been reading good things about "redline" brand synthetic transmission oils which say they are non-EP and safe for synchros...so im thinking about switching it to that if i can find it anywhere...

        On 9/6/2012 9:06 PM, Art Hughes wrote:  
        The product sheet for the oil is for rear axle cars. Any metion of "Extreme Pressure" protection is for hypoid gears, as a rear wheel drive car would use in the differential.
        Just drain it out and don't worry. Make sure you use a Syn oil that is rated/compatiable (Gear Oil) for use in Transmissions.
        The Syn gear oil may be shown as a lighter weight. (O'Reilly Auto Parts part# 80054)
        Modern oil in an engine that is in normal condition can be 10W40, 10W50, year round, except where "0" are normal winter
         temps.
        5w30 can be used at zero and below, changed out as soon as it gets warmer outside, and best not used for long highway use.
        20W50 is a little too slow to lube on cold starts under 25 degrees, and makes the battery/starter work harder. Down toward Zero, you may not start in the AM, as it's like molasses.
        Use a Syn engine oil, but something heavier than 5W.... Can't remember the next heavier, think it's 15W something.
        Full Syn oil will gain gas mileage and power, if used in both trans and engine.
        Valvoline is a good brand. I used all Valvoline Syn in my race car, engine, trans, and rear axle, for 5 seasons. No failures in the engine, oil pressure more stable, water temp down 5 degrees, huge decrease in quick change rear axle temps.
         
        Art Hughes  Columbus, Ohio  USA
         
         Visit   www.wvaanne.com   Art's List of Family Connections, WV Rt  87
                             Genealogy in Jackson and Mason Counties, WV
         
                                            



        From: OilBurner <highvoltage@...>
        To: yugounitedgvowners2@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Thu, September 6, 2012 4:57:14 PM
        Subject: [YugoUnitedGVOwners] Another gear-oil conversation... [1 Attachment]

         

        So i changed my gear oil when i first bought the car. Thinking i was
        doing the best possible thing for it, i purchased and filled the
        transmission with Valvoline SYNPOWER full-synthetic 75w-90 gear oil. I
        think i have now realized that this was the incorrect thing to use...the
        manual says "do not use EP or Hypoid oils in the transaxle" But i think
        that may be what the valvoline is...im now aware that the sulfer
        addatives in EP oil are bad for the sycros...and i know the stuff STINKS
        like sulfer...but im still confused...the bottle also says "compatible
        with conventional gear lubricants" and "recommended for use in manual
        transmissions where API GL-5 or MT-1 fluid is specified"

        All the info on the oil, and in the Yugo manual is vague...thus my
        confusion...

        all im really worried about is if i have done any damage to the
        transmission by running this oil in it, and if i should change the fluid
        immediately?

        I am having no problems with the transmission. shifts fine, sounds
        normal. however (this may be normal) i have noticed it doesn't like to
        be downshifted into 3rd gear at speeds above 35MPH (will grind). and the
        slight input shaft noise/rattle idling in neutral with foot off clutch,
        which it was doing since i got the car even with the original oil, and
        hasn't gotten worse.

        I also removed the oil fill plug and let a little run out just to
        check it today, and MIGHT have noticed some very small filings in the
        oil...more like fine dust really.. I think this may be normal, or maybe
        im just seeing things and am paranoid...? I was going to drain it out,
        strain it and put it back...but then i figured id better double check
        everything.

        I have only driven about 3 or 4000 miles since i replaced the transaxle
        oil in May of 2011.

        As a side note, im thinking its engine oil change time again aswell...i
        changed that at the same time as the gear oil, with full-synthetic
        20w-50 oil as what the manual states...so its probably not due yet...but
        it couldn't hurt could it? and would a lighter oil be better or should i
        stick with the 20w-50?

        I have attached the info sheet for the Valvoline synpower gear oil i
        used, which i downloaded from there website. for everybodys information...

      • Art Hughes
        All Auto parts stores sell Gear Oil, as it s used in many cars. The deal with transmissions is, the synchro rings have to cut thru the oil, to have friction
        Message 4 of 4 , Sep 7, 2012
        • 0 Attachment
          All Auto parts stores sell Gear Oil, as it's used in many cars.
          The deal with transmissions is, the synchro rings have to "cut" thru the oil, to have friction on a gear hub, to slow it down, so a gear change will be effected.
          Hypoid oils are for spiral cut gears in a ring and pinion gear set, as hypoid is very resistant to being "wiped" away between gear faces. A synchro ring doesn't "cut" thru the hypoid oil, to slow down the next gear. Roughly speaking about the whole deal, the synchro "slips", and can't slow down the next gear. So, you get a poor shift.
           
          Also, to be correct, you have to use the gas pedal, to speed up the trans internals, in order to downshift, as you move the shift lever.
          Simply shoving the clutch down, and not using the gas, is the #1 killer of sychros over time. You also have to learn how to be braking, and then roll your foot to blip the gas, as you downshift.
          Proper driving, all gear changes should be done, before you turn the wheel for a corner, so you can have power back on the engine, and not shifting while turning, or coming out of the corner.
           
          An easy way to see how proper down shifting using the gas works, is cruise along at say 40MPH in 4th. Hold the gas pedal steady, clutch in, let the engine speed up, shift down to 3rd. Clutch out. It will be very smooth.
           
          Not all trans uses the same oil, some even use engine oil. Just depends what the manufacturer says.
          Art Hughes  Columbus, Ohio  USA
           
           Visit   www.wvaanne.com   Art's List of Family Connections, WV Rt  87
                               Genealogy in Jackson and Mason Counties, WV
           
                                              



          From: OilBurner <highvoltage@...>
          To: yugounitedgvowners2@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Fri, September 7, 2012 12:49:03 AM
          Subject: Re: [YugoUnitedGVOwners] Another gear-oil conversation...

           

          This goes along with everything that i have been reading...EP oil is bad for synchros...but im puzzled...why does the manual for my Toyota say EP/Hypoid oil IS supposed to be used in the gearbox? both are obviously synchromesh transmissions...Is it because the different makes of transmissions use different metals for the synchros? Bronze vs brass? do the EP additives/sulfur affect one but not the other? what metal does the yugos trans use for the synchros if anybody actually knows?

          Also, does Valvoline even make non hypoid gear oil? i dont remember seeing any...and i think the only thing any of the local auto shops sell is various hypoid gear oils..

          I have been reading good things about "redline" brand synthetic transmission oils which say they are non-EP and safe for synchros...so im thinking about switching it to that if i can find it anywhere...

          On 9/6/2012 9:06 PM, Art Hughes wrote:
           
          The product sheet for the oil is for rear axle cars. Any metion of "Extreme Pressure" protection is for hypoid gears, as a rear wheel drive car would use in the differential.
          Just drain it out and don't worry. Make sure you use a Syn oil that is rated/compatiable (Gear Oil) for use in Transmissions.
          The Syn gear oil may be shown as a lighter weight. (O'Reilly Auto Parts part# 80054)
          Modern oil in an engine that is in normal condition can be 10W40, 10W50, year round, except where "0" are normal winter
           temps.
          5w30 can be used at zero and below, changed out as soon as it gets warmer outside, and best not used for long highway use.
          20W50 is a little too slow to lube on cold starts under 25 degrees, and makes the battery/starter work harder. Down toward Zero, you may not start in the AM, as it's like molasses.
          Use a Syn engine oil, but something heavier than 5W.... Can't remember the next heavier, think it's 15W something.
          Full Syn oil will gain gas mileage and power, if used in both trans and engine.
          Valvoline is a good brand. I used all Valvoline Syn in my race car, engine, trans, and rear axle, for 5 seasons. No failures in the engine, oil pressure more stable, water temp down 5 degrees, huge decrease in quick change rear axle temps.
           

           

           
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