12256Re: [YugoUnitedGVOwners] Looked into the front brake setup tonight...
- Jul 30, 2014Yeah, that near roll over, or best case, could have been a spin out in front of speeding traffic, that fixed the idea of simply getting new stock calipers. Afterall, a couple years from now, would have to do it again. The stock Yugo brakes are a very inexpensive design, work well new, but will need major work in the future. Some go for several years with no problems, the majority don't.I thought my safety, and that of others, was worth spending money to get "Whoa" front brakes. I am extremely happy with them, and love the ease of hard braking from speed. Sometimes do it just to make me feel good. Love the feel of the brakes seeming to lock on harder to the rotors as speed reduces.I converted to X1/9 rear disc brakes, disconnected the rear compensator, and have zero problems.I suppose the only bad point is that the car won't stay still at stops. The brakes release 100%, and seems like even wind can move the car, unless I have my foot on the brakes. LOL!On Tuesday, July 29, 2014 11:25 PM, "'David C. Pyatt' dcpyatt@... [yugounitedgvowners2]" <email@example.com> wrote:
Thanks, Art... you are running WHOAs on your, aren't you? I figure if I go 1500 I will need more stopping power at that point in time, I just wanted to check to see if I should order pads or rotors as I never have really looked that closely at their condition.
DavePOn Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 11:17 PM, Art Hughes pro4art@... [yugounitedgvowners2] <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:As prev posted, a screwdriver will get the slides out, not the screwdriver you use on 90% of what need losened, but the next size up you don't use very often.Where the slides rub on the calipers has to be smooth and clean. The slides have to be smooth and clean, Where the slides rub on the caliper bracket has to be smooth and clean. On assembly, you use brake caliper lube to coat the slides before you install them. The bottom slide can be pushed straight in from the front side, not from the side. The top slide can also be pushed in from the front, with help from a soft hammer. The area where the slides rub on the caliper, should also be lubed.You have to make sure the caliper engages the heavy spring that is on the caliper bracket, Easy to miss getting it on the caliper properly.The caliper pistons have to be pushed fully back into its bore. A large C-clamp can be used, or a very large set of pliers. You must gage how hard it is to get the piston back to the bottom of its bore. Too much effort required means the pistons are binding, so the pads will always keep pressure on the pads, causing brake pull, and many less miles untill the pads are gone. Also affects gas mileage and performance, as the brakes will be always partially be on.You can tell, if you stop on a very slight down or uphill grade, and the car stays put with your foot off the brakes. Really common way to tell, really common for that to be the case.Worse is the brake pull that can happen. Normal driving, seems OK, but if you panic stop you get wild brake pull. Normal that one caliper will stick more than the other, so you panic stop with one brake hotter than the other. The side that's stuck overheats the pads and glazes the rotor, and the other side is cooler and the brake action is normal, so it pulls wildly to the tempature normal side.Happened to me, and I nearly dumped the car, during a near brake lock up in a panic stop.You could try freeing the caliper pistons. You press them in as far as they go, and carefully remove the piston rubber boot. Look at the boot closely, so you know how it looks installed.This exposes a part of the caliper that can corrode, and causes piston hang up. Using a good condition screw driver, you scrape this lip seveal times with the side of the blade, and use brake clean spray to clean it. You mix a few drops of oil with brake caliper lube, (not a lot of oil, you want a paste) and lube the lip. Reinstall the rubber boot with a normal size screwdriver, being careful to not rip it. With the caliper still off the bracket, pump the piston out with the brake pedal, being very careful to NOT pop the piston out of the caliper. Push the piston back all the way in. Do that at least 2 times. Hopefully it will be much more likely to retract after braking.On Tuesday, July 29, 2014 9:31 PM, "DANIEL BOGUSE rustycat97@... [yugounitedgvowners2]" <email@example.com> wrote:
All the Fiats and the Yugo and most likely the Lancia's use this type of caliper set up. Even the early Toyota Celica and Corolla used this. All you need to do brakes is a pliers and a screwdriver and some brake lube, come on how easy can it get.From: "dcpyatt@... [yugounitedgvowners2]" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 7:44 PM
Subject: [YugoUnitedGVOwners] Looked into the front brake setup tonight...
Which brilliant team of engineers do I have to thank for the ingenious caliper setup, the Italians or the Slavs? Thank goodness I have a Haynes manual, I never would have figured it out... as it was I only took the top retaining slide out and replaced it... those little clips are getting a paint job florescent orange! Lost them in the drive after setting them on the hubcap!
Should I get a brass bar to use to knock these retainers in and out to keep from dinging them up? I know my dad used to have one in his tool box, unfortunately I wasn't offered his tools when he passed away. Any ideas where I might find one?
DaveP in Ohio87-88-89
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