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12239Re: [YugoUnitedGVOwners] fornt end alignment

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  • Bill Schulz
    Jul 7, 2014
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      Bill-

      You guys are going to laugh your fannies off when you hear my method. Mind you, now, this is home-grown, the result of having gotten bad alignments from non-Yugo/FIAT shops (FIAT/Yugo were non-existent most of the time we had them) who didn't know their tailpipes from a hole in the ground. So, I improvised and, if I do say so myself, I had excellent results-- good tire wear, excellent handling and economy-- and so I'll pass it on:

      First thing is to be certain that none of the wheels is bent. I would check that by jacking up each wheel one at a time and spinning them to see if there was any runout. If they're all OK, I'd then find a nice level place with a clear shot ahead of the car of about 40 feet.

      Front end- First off, it's best to do this when it's early/late in the day before/after the sun's set (it needs to be nearly dark). Roll the car back and forth 10 feet or so two or three times to settle the suspension WITH THE FRONT WHEELS SET STRAIGHT FORWARD. Mark each front tire 90 degrees up the back outer sidewall with something white-ish... masking tape, chalk, etc.

      Set a drop lamp where the tire meets the ground so it lights up the REAR WHITE(ish) SPOT without lighting up the front sidewall face.

      Go out 40 or so feet (I told you this was by-guess-and-by-gosh!). Sight down the sidewall so that your eye is just where the white spot goes visible/invisible if you move your head from side to side. In other words, you're right in line with the outer face of the tire. Make a mark on the ground immediately below your eye.

      Mark off the exact measurement across the car, outer face-to-outer face of the tires (it should be about 57.6 inches) and then come back 2 to 3 inches and mark the ground at this point.

      Sight down the opposite side of the car (the tire sidewall being duly lighted so you can see that tire's white spot) and align toe-in so that side lines up with the 54.6-55.6 inch mark. This will give you 1/4 to 1/3 of a degree toe-in.

      This process can be transferred to the rear end setup only looking out to the rear of the car, ADDING the 2-3 inches to the outer face to outer face dimension. (This is because toe-in from the front is toe-out from the rear.)

      Those who adhere to the factory toe-OUT theory will scream bloody murder over this "toe-in" bit but my experience over nearly a quarter million miles in Yugos, mostly in rotten-roaded New England what with varying crowns, etc., showed me that this works with the toe-IN gently compensating for varying road camber without causing tire wear. With toe-out, if the road crown rises, it causes the car to lean toward the offside (right) front tire, giving it greater authority, pulling the car toward the shoulder. Conversely, with toe-in, increased road camber makes the car lean on the outside tire which is slightly aimed to the left, compensating for the right-leaning tilt of the car.

      Hey, it worked for me so I'll pass it on.

      Bill S.


      On 07/07/2014 02:41 PM, bill nolan hello9949@... [yugounitedgvowners2] wrote:
       
      Hi All

          Does anyone know the the specs for a front end alignment?  Can use the rear wheels specs too.
      I've been using an alignment method I got from Youtube and you use tape measures to measure and set the toe.   But specs are always expressed in degrees so how do you convert  inches to degrees ?
          Right now the measurements are such that the front end has 1/2  of toe in . How far off am I ?  Right now when I go around a bend in the road you can feel the right front tire diving under the car.   Is  that what they call over steer?  Be nice to get the little bugger back on the road and keep the money in the family.   Cheers      Bill  n.

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