12235Re: [YugoUnitedGVOwners] Re: Just discovered camshaft / crankshaft timing off by ~3 teeth
- Jul 2, 2014Don't forget to check the valve clearances when you have the cam cover off.The range of clearance in the manual is a guide, but I know from experience that max stock clearance makes it run the best. If the valves are too tight, .002 thou or more from max stock can make idle mix difficult to get right.Don't go over stock ignition timing until after you pass emissions. Then only go to 12 degrees at 900-950 RPM for best power.Buy a cheap hand held tachometer for carb tuning. Idles changes are very subtle, and ears over 35/inexperienced, can't really hear them.Many don't realize the Weber, or Holly Weber is sensitive to correct idle mixture. The best lean idle is when you are turning the mix screw in. The width of the screwdriver slot is a significant adjustment when you are close to correct mix. Also, takes near 5 seconds for the engine to respond to mix screw movement.If you take too long setting the mix, and the fan comes, you have to stop. Manifold and carb get too hot.I can't remember on the 1300 about timing, if the distributor vac unit is disconnected, if it has an air pump and if that should be blocked off when tuning. Should have a decal under the hood with specs and vac hose routing.Set plugs at max stock gap. Old oil, if dirty enough, will fail emissions testing. Is the crank vent hose supposed to be on during testing? Dirty air filter, or failed air cleaner vacuum capsule may cause failure to pass. Make sure all vac lines fit tightly, snip off a 1/4 inch of all hose ends, if they can be pulled off too easy. Test your plug wires with an ohmmeter. No reason to trust they are good, or buy high quality new ones.I've seen many Yugos with the cold air hose to the air cleaner missing.On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 1:29 PM, "ryan@... [yugounitedgvowners2]" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
You called it Jeff, it's a Cabrio. I had a hell of a time convincing the California emissions referee that it came with a carburetor from the factory. The California emissions books incorrectly show EFI only for this car’s VIN and he originally told me that I wasn't going to be able to register it in California at all with that engine. Amazingly though, with bits and pieces I showed him that I had found online, along with his own research, he agreed that the information was inconclusive at best and it didn't look like someone had done an engine change so he's approving it. I've NEVER heard of the California emissions referee doing something like this so I feel pretty damn lucky. Now I just have to get the engine tuned up so it’ll pass the test.I've been operating under the assumption that the 1300cc was also an interference engine because that’s all I've heard so thank you very much for letting me know this is not the case. I don’t think my manuals state that anywhere but then again, I haven’t been looking for that information. They might mention it somewhere in there. I've been so worried about messing up the timing and damaging the engine. This lets me proceed with a bit more confidence.Art and Jeff, thanks for all the information on the timing marks and suggestion on degreeing the cam. I think with all this info, I’ll be able to get the cam and crankshaft timed properly. The flywheel marks line up with 0 on the bell housing at the same time as the mark on the crankshaft pulley line up with the cam belt cover 0 mark. I’ll take the valve cover off this weekend so I can see exactly where the valves sit at TDC on 4. It also sounds like my temperature issue is most likely air in the system as I wasn't very careful to completely burp the system. I’ll go through that process you described Art and post the results of that along with the timing results when finished.
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