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muffler

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  • ezra.lange
    My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the
    Message 1 of 12 , Nov 19, 2012
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      My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
    • js
      I was fortunate to inspect my riser just at the beginning of failure. There were several pinhole-sized perforations in the inner pipe. These holes weren’t
      Message 2 of 12 , Nov 19, 2012
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        I was fortunate to inspect my riser just at the beginning of failure. There were several pinhole-sized perforations in the inner pipe. These holes weren’t large enough to cause damage to the engine, but eventually they would have enlarged to the point that the exhaust pressure would not have been sufficient to keep water out of the exhaust pipe allowing more bad things to happen. Typically it’s the inner pipe or tube (the one that carries the hot engine exhaust) that fails and the failure occurs at the level that the raw water coolant spills out of the unit into the exhaust hose and mixes with the engine exhaust. I was told that the failure occurs at this location and generally at this location only because the acids in the exhaust and the turbulence of the water combine to erode the outside of the inner pipe. Not that any of this matters now, but for those curious enough to wonder about the cause of failure well, now you know. Anyway, the outer pipe should be intact and good for another forty years so all that’s necessary is to replace the inner pipe. The bottom of the unit has to be cut off, the inner pipe removed and a replacement welded in place and the bottom has to be re-welded to the rest of the unit. My first choice would be to take the complete apparatus to a marine exhaust shop or alternatively a reputable welding fab shop. The unit is constructed of silicon bronze and if repaired with same should be good for another generation or two. Good luck.
         
        JS
         
         
         
         
        Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 7:42 PM
        Subject: [yankee30] muffler
         
         

        My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.

      • Andy
        I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all
        Message 3 of 12 , Nov 19, 2012
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          I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly. 
          Andy / Avocet

          Sent from my iPhone

          On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@...> wrote:

           

          My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.

        • b_boynton2000
          Erza, I may have one for you. Made out of heavy SS but I gave it to a friend. I don t think he used it but he may have gotten rid of it. I m local to you so
          Message 4 of 12 , Nov 22, 2012
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            Erza,

            I may have one for you. Made out of heavy SS but I gave it to a friend. I don't think he used it but he may have gotten rid of it. I'm local to you so if I can get it back I'll give it to you. Stay tuned.

            - Bob - Seawitch

            --- In yankee30@yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@...> wrote:
            >
            > I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly.
            > Andy / Avocet
            >
            > Sent from my iPhone
            >
            > On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@...> wrote:
            >
            > > My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
            > >
            > >
            >
          • Tom Peargin
            I recently rebuilt my exhaust system for the same reason. Constucted the entire thing out of 1 1/4 steel pipe, including a set or reducers to accomodate the
            Message 5 of 12 , Nov 23, 2012
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              I recently rebuilt my exhaust system for the same reason. Constucted the entire thing out of 1 1/4 steel pipe, including a set or reducers to accomodate the cooling water discharge on the back site of a high point in the piping. The problem with the old setup was that the original brass fitting recieving cooling water was installed right at the apex of the exhause pipe. If the engine was running, water flowed the right direction. If I cranked the engine with the raw water valve open, it was putting seawater into the crankcase. Not good. Plus the original brass had cracked, and I didn't want to try and get it welded.
               
              My current setup works just fine, but I recognize itf won't last all that long based on the materials. Still, the price and hassle factor was so much less that hunting down the original brass pieces I felt it was worth it. Of course, once cooling water enters the system and the temperature was low enough I went to exhaust hose and fiberglass water muffler, etc.
               
              1 1/4 pipe is hard to find these days, since standard size is 1 1/2, so you can forget Home Depot and the like. Still, it is not that hard to locate from a smaller hardware store, and with use of 45 degree fittings and reducers you can probably make about any shape you need.

              From: b_boynton2000 <b_boynton2000@...>
              To: yankee30@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2012 12:38 PM
              Subject: [yankee30] Re: muffler
               
              Erza,

              I may have one for you. Made out of heavy SS but I gave it to a friend. I don't think he used it but he may have gotten rid of it. I'm local to you so if I can get it back I'll give it to you. Stay tuned.

              - Bob - Seawitch

              --- In mailto:yankee30%40yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@...> wrote:
              >
              > I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly.
              > Andy / Avocet
              >
              > Sent from my iPhone
              >
              > On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@...> wrote:
              >
              > > My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
              > >
              > >
              >

            • aj_jones_iv
              Though perhaps a bit less DIY than the OP originally had in mind, Moyer Marine sells a new SS standpipe designed to fit the A4 engine in the Yankee 30 s
              Message 6 of 12 , Nov 23, 2012
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                Though perhaps a bit less DIY than the OP originally had in mind, Moyer Marine sells a new SS standpipe designed to fit the A4 engine in the Yankee 30's sistership, the Tartan 30. Here's a link - scroll about 1/4 of the way down the page: http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=EXHT&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html . Looks like they're charging about $500, plus shipping. I imagine it should be a pretty much drop-in replacement for the old bronze Y30 standpipe.

                On a related note, I've researched Moyer's exhaust offerings because my own exhaust hot section rusted away from water seeping out of small pinhole leaks in the outer tube of the standpipe. Exhaust wrap and a distracted PO let the pipe rust away undetected for years. Right now I get in and out of the harbor just fine with a yuloh (Chinese sculling oar), so the engine remains otherwise perfectly functional, but needs a new hot section and repair/replacement of the manifold (rusted at the threads for the hot section). I'm considering removing it and repowering in the near future - does anybody in the Monterey Bay area want a project A4?

                - Arthur 'AJ' Jones

                --- In yankee30@yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@...> wrote:
                >
                > I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly.
                > Andy / Avocet
                >
                > Sent from my iPhone
                >
                > On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@...> wrote:
                >
                > > My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
                > >
                > >
                >
              • js
                This is a significantly different design than the original Yankee specification - apart from it being half the length. Although the exhaust inlet is at the
                Message 7 of 12 , Nov 23, 2012
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                  This is a significantly different design than the original Yankee specification - apart from it being half the length. Although the exhaust inlet is at the bottom in both the original and Moyer’s aftermarket design, Moyer’s engine cooling water inlet is located at the top of the unit  rather than at the bottom in the original design. The outlet for both exhaust and coolant in the original design is at the top of the unit – Moyer’s design locates it at the bottom. Bottom line, if this design works at all in a Yankee some plumbing mods will be required to accommodate Moyer’s product. But then you still end up with a stainless version which remains inferior to a silicon bronze iteration for a few dollars more and would be a drop-in copy rather than a Tartan design morphed to fit a Yankee. Most of the time the whole unit doesn’t have to be replaced. All that was necessary with mine was replacing about 4-5 inches of the top of the exhaust (inner) pipe. The shop cut off the deteriorated part, stubbed a new piece and replaced the top cap. Badda bing, badda bang, badda boom. Way less than $500 and a morphodite plumbing exercise. Ditto for replacing a piece of the outer pipe if that’s necessary. There’s a reason why they call silicon bronze the “forever” metal – and why stainless isn’t.
                   
                  JS
                   
                   
                   
                   
                   
                  Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 1:43 PM
                  Subject: [yankee30] Re: muffler
                   
                   

                  Though perhaps a bit less DIY than the OP originally had in mind, Moyer Marine sells a new SS standpipe designed to fit the A4 engine in the Yankee 30's sistership, the Tartan 30. Here's a link - scroll about 1/4 of the way down the page: http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=EXHT&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html . Looks like they're charging about $500, plus shipping. I imagine it should be a pretty much drop-in replacement for the old bronze Y30 standpipe.

                  On a related note, I've researched Moyer's exhaust offerings because my own exhaust hot section rusted away from water seeping out of small pinhole leaks in the outer tube of the standpipe. Exhaust wrap and a distracted PO let the pipe rust away undetected for years. Right now I get in and out of the harbor just fine with a yuloh (Chinese sculling oar), so the engine remains otherwise perfectly functional, but needs a new hot section and repair/replacement of the manifold (rusted at the threads for the hot section). I'm considering removing it and repowering in the near future - does anybody in the Monterey Bay area want a project A4?

                  - Arthur 'AJ' Jones

                  --- In mailto:yankee30%40yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@...> wrote:

                  >
                  > I had one duplicated from SS and
                  works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly.
                  > Andy / Avocet
                  >
                  > Sent from my iPhone
                  >
                  > On
                  Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > > My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make
                  another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
                  > >
                  > >
                  >

                • Arthur Jones
                  Thanks for calling out those potential issues, JS - I was a little too hasty to weigh in about a topic I only know a little about. Honestly, I hadn t put much
                  Message 8 of 12 , Nov 24, 2012
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                    Thanks for calling out those potential issues, JS - I was a little too hasty to weigh in about a topic I only know a little about. Honestly, I hadn't put much research into Moyer's standpipe other than noting its existence, partially because I thought the T30 and Y30 exhaust systems were more similar than they actually are, and also because I had hoped to be able to repair my own standpipe rather than replace it outright. If I was still on the track of restoring my A4, I'd be more hopeful about going that route.

                    I'm aware of the nigh-uncorrodable properties of silicon bronze, and it certainly seems like the better bet to stay with that material rather than SS if possible. I've heard that SS can have significant corrosion problems when left immersed in saltwater (for those of us with raw water cooling), as the inner parts of the standpipe would be. I wonder how long the Moyer standpipe lasts, compared to the 40 or so years the original Yankee standpipes have have been in service?

                    - Arthur 'AJ' Jones
                  • Andy
                    The damage on my exhaust was right where the salt water was injected into the outer cooling jacket, at the base, not the top. That stream, the injection point,
                    Message 9 of 12 , Nov 24, 2012
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                      The damage on my exhaust was right where the salt water was injected into the outer cooling jacket, at the base, not the top. That stream, the injection point, hit the inner exhaust tube at its base. I assumed that the abrasive properties of salt/ particle filled water shooting at the inner exhaust pipe just wore it away over the years and created a pin hole. Then when the engine shut down, salt water slowly seeped back down through that pinhole to the exhaust manifold, valves & engine block. Bad news. But, when I chose SS instead of silicon bronze, I considered hardness/strength and the attack on that vulnerable point where the cooling water is injected. I also had the welder change the angle of injection to slight the inner tube. The original Yankee design was flawed at the start and I say that with a smile. It lasted 39 years. Not so bad. Who am I to criticize. I love my boat. 

                      Sent from my iPhone

                      On Nov 23, 2012, at 7:07 PM, "js" <4sje5@...> wrote:

                       

                      This is a significantly different design than the original Yankee specification - apart from it being half the length. Although the exhaust inlet is at the bottom in both the original and Moyer’s aftermarket design, Moyer’s engine cooling water inlet is located at the top of the unit  rather than at the bottom in the original design. The outlet for both exhaust and coolant in the original design is at the top of the unit – Moyer’s design locates it at the bottom. Bottom line, if this design works at all in a Yankee some plumbing mods will be required to accommodate Moyer’s product. But then you still end up with a stainless version which remains inferior to a silicon bronze iteration for a few dollars more and would be a drop-in copy rather than a Tartan design morphed to fit a Yankee. Most of the time the whole unit doesn’t have to be replaced. All that was necessary with mine was replacing about 4-5 inches of the top of the exhaust (inner) pipe. The shop cut off the deteriorated part, stubbed a new piece and replaced the top cap. Badda bing, badda bang, badda boom. Way less than $500 and a morphodite plumbing exercise. Ditto for replacing a piece of the outer pipe if that’s necessary. There’s a reason why they call silicon bronze the “forever” metal – and why stainless isn’t.
                       
                      JS
                       
                       
                       
                       
                       
                      Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 1:43 PM
                      Subject: [yankee30] Re: muffler
                       
                       

                      Though perhaps a bit less DIY than the OP originally had in mind, Moyer Marine sells a new SS standpipe designed to fit the A4 engine in the Yankee 30's sistership, the Tartan 30. Here's a link - scroll about 1/4 of the way down the page: http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=EXHT&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html . Looks like they're charging about $500, plus shipping. I imagine it should be a pretty much drop-in replacement for the old bronze Y30 standpipe.

                      On a related note, I've researched Moyer's exhaust offerings because my own exhaust hot section rusted away from water seeping out of small pinhole leaks in the outer tube of the standpipe. Exhaust wrap and a distracted PO let the pipe rust away undetected for years. Right now I get in and out of the harbor just fine with a yuloh (Chinese sculling oar), so the engine remains otherwise perfectly functional, but needs a new hot section and repair/replacement of the manifold (rusted at the threads for the hot section). I'm considering removing it and repowering in the near future - does anybody in the Monterey Bay area want a project A4?

                      - Arthur 'AJ' Jones

                      --- In mailto:yankee30%40yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly.
                      > Andy / Avocet
                      >
                      > Sent from my iPhone
                      >
                      > On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > > My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
                      > >
                      > >
                      >

                    • Andy
                      304 is has top rating for seawater...see attached. The failure of the stock Yankee lift exhaust system (on Avocet anyway) was exacerbated due to the injection
                      Message 10 of 12 , Nov 25, 2012
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                        304 is has top rating for seawater...see attached.  The failure of the stock Yankee lift exhaust system (on Avocet anyway) was exacerbated due to the injection point of raw sea water at the base of the assembly. Raw sea water was injected at the base and after many hours/years aimed directly at the base of the inner exhaust tube on my assembly I could see the wear in that particular spot on the inner tube. Sea water and its components over time can be like a sandblasting affect on soft metals. The combination of age, corrosion and most definitely impact abrasion was very evident. When fabricating the replacement system we "aimed" the sea water tangentially to avoid direct impact on the center/ exhaust tube. Again, I chose 304 by way of its strength and availability. It was a great way to replace the whole system. I have no problems with silicon bronze but I'm not a snob either. I've made other material choices, unpopular as they were... my choices based on science rather than tradition and popularity. 
                        Chem Resistance Chart: Sea Water Page 10  http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/chemical-resistance-data.pdf
                        Sent from my iPhone

                        On Nov 23, 2012, at 7:07 PM, "js" <4sje5@...> wrote:

                         

                        This is a significantly different design than the original Yankee specification - apart from it being half the length. Although the exhaust inlet is at the bottom in both the original and Moyer’s aftermarket design, Moyer’s engine cooling water inlet is located at the top of the unit  rather than at the bottom in the original design. The outlet for both exhaust and coolant in the original design is at the top of the unit – Moyer’s design locates it at the bottom. Bottom line, if this design works at all in a Yankee some plumbing mods will be required to accommodate Moyer’s product. But then you still end up with a stainless version which remains inferior to a silicon bronze iteration for a few dollars more and would be a drop-in copy rather than a Tartan design morphed to fit a Yankee. Most of the time the whole unit doesn’t have to be replaced. All that was necessary with mine was replacing about 4-5 inches of the top of the exhaust (inner) pipe. The shop cut off the deteriorated part, stubbed a new piece and replaced the top cap. Badda bing, badda bang, badda boom. Way less than $500 and a morphodite plumbing exercise. Ditto for replacing a piece of the outer pipe if that’s necessary. There’s a reason why they call silicon bronze the “forever” metal – and why stainless isn’t.
                         
                        JS
                         
                         
                         
                         
                         
                        Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 1:43 PM
                        Subject: [yankee30] Re: muffler
                         
                         

                        Though perhaps a bit less DIY than the OP originally had in mind, Moyer Marine sells a new SS standpipe designed to fit the A4 engine in the Yankee 30's sistership, the Tartan 30. Here's a link - scroll about 1/4 of the way down the page: http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=EXHT&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html . Looks like they're charging about $500, plus shipping. I imagine it should be a pretty much drop-in replacement for the old bronze Y30 standpipe.

                        On a related note, I've researched Moyer's exhaust offerings because my own exhaust hot section rusted away from water seeping out of small pinhole leaks in the outer tube of the standpipe. Exhaust wrap and a distracted PO let the pipe rust away undetected for years. Right now I get in and out of the harbor just fine with a yuloh (Chinese sculling oar), so the engine remains otherwise perfectly functional, but needs a new hot section and repair/replacement of the manifold (rusted at the threads for the hot section). I'm considering removing it and repowering in the near future - does anybody in the Monterey Bay area want a project A4?

                        - Arthur 'AJ' Jones

                        --- In mailto:yankee30%40yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly.
                        > Andy / Avocet
                        >
                        > Sent from my iPhone
                        >
                        > On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > > My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
                        > >
                        > >
                        >

                      • b_boynton2000
                        Ezra, I just checked with my friend that I gave my standpipe to. Unfortunately he just threw it away about 3 months ago when he moved. Sorry, I think it would
                        Message 11 of 12 , Nov 25, 2012
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Ezra,

                          I just checked with my friend that I gave my standpipe to. Unfortunately he just threw it away about 3 months ago when he moved. Sorry, I think it would have worked out great for you but its gone, landfill.

                          - Bob - Seawitch

                          --- In yankee30@yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > 304 is has top rating for seawater...see attached. The failure of the stock Yankee lift exhaust system (on Avocet anyway) was exacerbated due to the injection point of raw sea water at the base of the assembly. Raw sea water was injected at the base and after many hours/years aimed directly at the base of the inner exhaust tube on my assembly I could see the wear in that particular spot on the inner tube. Sea water and its components over time can be like a sandblasting affect on soft metals. The combination of age, corrosion and most definitely impact abrasion was very evident. When fabricating the replacement system we "aimed" the sea water tangentially to avoid direct impact on the center/ exhaust tube. Again, I chose 304 by way of its strength and availability. It was a great way to replace the whole system. I have no problems with silicon bronze but I'm not a snob either. I've made other material choices, unpopular as they were... my choices based on science rather than tradition and popularity.
                          > Chem Resistance Chart: Sea Water Page 10 http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/chemical-resistance-data.pdf
                          > Sent from my iPhone
                          >
                          > On Nov 23, 2012, at 7:07 PM, "js" <4sje5@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > > This is a significantly different design than the original Yankee specification - apart from it being half the length. Although the exhaust inlet is at the bottom in both the original and Moyer’s aftermarket design, Moyer’s engine cooling water inlet is located at the top of the unit rather than at the bottom in the original design. The outlet for both exhaust and coolant in the original design is at the top of the unit â€" Moyer’s design locates it at the bottom. Bottom line, if this design works at all in a Yankee some plumbing mods will be required to accommodate Moyer’s product. But then you still end up with a stainless version which remains inferior to a silicon bronze iteration for a few dollars more and would be a drop-in copy rather than a Tartan design morphed to fit a Yankee. Most of the time the whole unit doesn’t have to be replaced. All that was necessary with mine was replacing about 4-5 inches of the top of the exhaust (inner) pipe. The shop cut off the deteriorated part, stubbed a new piece and replaced the top cap. Badda bing, badda bang, badda boom. Way less than $500 and a morphodite plumbing exercise. Ditto for replacing a piece of the outer pipe if that’s necessary. There’s a reason why they call silicon bronze the “forever” metal â€" and why stainless isn’t.
                          > >
                          > > JS
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > From: aj_jones_iv
                          > > Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 1:43 PM
                          > > To: yankee30@yahoogroups.com
                          > > Subject: [yankee30] Re: muffler
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Though perhaps a bit less DIY than the OP originally had in mind, Moyer Marine sells a new SS standpipe designed to fit the A4 engine in the Yankee 30's sistership, the Tartan 30. Here's a link - scroll about 1/4 of the way down the page: http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=EXHT&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html . Looks like they're charging about $500, plus shipping. I imagine it should be a pretty much drop-in replacement for the old bronze Y30 standpipe.
                          > >
                          > > On a related note, I've researched Moyer's exhaust offerings because my own exhaust hot section rusted away from water seeping out of small pinhole leaks in the outer tube of the standpipe. Exhaust wrap and a distracted PO let the pipe rust away undetected for years. Right now I get in and out of the harbor just fine with a yuloh (Chinese sculling oar), so the engine remains otherwise perfectly functional, but needs a new hot section and repair/replacement of the manifold (rusted at the threads for the hot section). I'm considering removing it and repowering in the near future - does anybody in the Monterey Bay area want a project A4?
                          > >
                          > > - Arthur 'AJ' Jones
                          > >
                          > > --- In mailto:yankee30%40yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly.
                          > > > Andy / Avocet
                          > > >
                          > > > Sent from my iPhone
                          > > >
                          > > > On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > > My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          >
                        • Ezra Lange
                          Thanks for the advice about changing the direction of the injection port. I also want to have a drain at the bottom as well .I will be making out of stainless,
                          Message 12 of 12 , Nov 26, 2012
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                            Thanks for the advice about changing the direction of the injection port. I also want to have a drain at the bottom as well .I will be making out of stainless, because I cannot find any bronze locally.
                            -Ezra


                            From: Andy <ansmktg@...>
                            To: "yankee30@yahoogroups.com" <yankee30@yahoogroups.com>
                            Cc: "<yankee30@yahoogroups.com>" <yankee30@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2012 11:02 PM
                            Subject: Re: [yankee30] Re: muffler

                             
                            The damage on my exhaust was right where the salt water was injected into the outer cooling jacket, at the base, not the top. That stream, the injection point, hit the inner exhaust tube at its base. I assumed that the abrasive properties of salt/ particle filled water shooting at the inner exhaust pipe just wore it away over the years and created a pin hole. Then when the engine shut down, salt water slowly seeped back down through that pinhole to the exhaust manifold, valves & engine block. Bad news. But, when I chose SS instead of silicon bronze, I considered hardness/strength and the attack on that vulnerable point where the cooling water is injected. I also had the welder change the angle of injection to slight the inner tube. The original Yankee design was flawed at the start and I say that with a smile. It lasted 39 years. Not so bad. Who am I to criticize. I love my boat. 

                            Sent from my iPhone

                            On Nov 23, 2012, at 7:07 PM, "js" <4sje5@...> wrote:

                             
                            This is a significantly different design than the original Yankee specification - apart from it being half the length. Although the exhaust inlet is at the bottom in both the original and Moyer’s aftermarket design, Moyer’s engine cooling water inlet is located at the top of the unit  rather than at the bottom in the original design. The outlet for both exhaust and coolant in the original design is at the top of the unit – Moyer’s design locates it at the bottom. Bottom line, if this design works at all in a Yankee some plumbing mods will be required to accommodate Moyer’s product. But then you still end up with a stainless version which remains inferior to a silicon bronze iteration for a few dollars more and would be a drop-in copy rather than a Tartan design morphed to fit a Yankee. Most of the time the whole unit doesn’t have to be replaced. All that was necessary with mine was replacing about 4-5 inches of the top of the exhaust (inner) pipe. The shop cut off the deteriorated part, stubbed a new piece and replaced the top cap. Badda bing, badda bang, badda boom. Way less than $500 and a morphodite plumbing exercise. Ditto for replacing a piece of the outer pipe if that’s necessary. There’s a reason why they call silicon bronze the “forever” metal – and why stainless isn’t.
                             
                            JS
                             
                             
                             
                             
                             
                            Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 1:43 PM
                            Subject: [yankee30] Re: muffler
                             
                             
                            Though perhaps a bit less DIY than the OP originally had in mind, Moyer Marine sells a new SS standpipe designed to fit the A4 engine in the Yankee 30's sistership, the Tartan 30. Here's a link - scroll about 1/4 of the way down the page: http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=EXHT&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html . Looks like they're charging about $500, plus shipping. I imagine it should be a pretty much drop-in replacement for the old bronze Y30 standpipe.

                            On a related note, I've researched Moyer's exhaust offerings because my own exhaust hot section rusted away from water seeping out of small pinhole leaks in the outer tube of the standpipe. Exhaust wrap and a distracted PO let the pipe rust away undetected for years. Right now I get in and out of the harbor just fine with a yuloh (Chinese sculling oar), so the engine remains otherwise perfectly functional, but needs a new hot section and repair/replacement of the manifold (rusted at the threads for the hot section). I'm considering removing it and repowering in the near future - does anybody in the Monterey Bay area want a project A4?

                            - Arthur 'AJ' Jones

                            --- In mailto:yankee30%40yahoogroups.com, Andy <ansmktg@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > I had one duplicated from SS and works beautifully. I gave the old one to the welder and he made the new one to match so that all the bulkhead bolts and all the hoses matched perfectly.
                            > Andy / Avocet
                            >
                            > Sent from my iPhone
                            >
                            > On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "ezra.lange" <ezra.lange@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > > My exhaust riser failed and killed my atomic 4. I am going to make another one, and I was wondering if anyone has done it before or has any insight. I have the 3" x 48" copper riser that is mounted on the inside bulkhead of the head. Any insight, advice, mockery would be appreciated.
                            > >
                            > >
                            >



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