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Re: Outdoor Boiler Plumbing

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  • mikehur0
    Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. You have given me some good tips!
    Message 1 of 10 , Feb 6, 2004
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      Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. You have given me
      some good tips!
    • Rich Pressman
      Hi Mike, The way you describe your heating system it would have to misbehave like that. In a hot water boiler system when the circulator is not running, there
      Message 2 of 10 , Feb 6, 2004
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        Hi Mike,
        The way you describe your heating system it would have to misbehave like that. In a hot water boiler system when the circulator is not running, there are two paths for the water to make its way back to the boiler. Those paths being the pipes that supply water to one side of a radiator and return water to the boiler from the other side of the radiator. I think you would need a zone valve --or maybe some kind of check valve at each end of the loop to keep the water from draining. Have you checked to see if you can make it into a closed system? You would have to install an expansion tank and a pressure reducing fill valve, neither of which are very expensive. A number of years ago I worked on a house or two in Baltimore City that had open hot water radiator systems. Of course the boilers were indoors, in the basement. The way they were vented was through a pipe that went through the roof. I don't remember for sure, but I think they had automatic fill valves that were adjusted so there
        would be enough pressure to keep the water level above the top floor radiator and below the roof vent. Don't know what would be easiest in your circumstance since I know almost nothing about outdoor boilers, but the basic principles will always be the same. Hope this helps.
        Rich

        mikehur0 <mhurwitch@...> wrote:
        I moved into a farm house last year which uses hot water heat
        provided by an Hardy outdoor wood stove. This is an open system: the
        stove has a circulator that pumps the hot water to the house, and it
        returns to the boiler tank which is vented to atmosphere.
        Inside the house, the previous owner connected the plumbing to the
        old closed system, but bypassed the old, broken oil burning boiler.
        The radiators are old cast-iron, with the water flowing in and out of
        ports at the base of the 2' high units.

        We can not seem to keep air out of the radiators! I close a valve at
        the end of the last radiator, turn up the thermostat to start the
        circulator, and bleed each radiator until they are full of water.
        Within a day or two, we hear water gurgling in the system.

        I can't find any leaks. The radiators are higher in elevation than
        the outdoor boiler tank, so I suspected that the water was
        running 'downhill' when the circulator pump shut off. I added a zone
        valve at the end of the loop, which shuts whenever the pump stops,
        but it doesn't seem to
        make a difference.

        Can anyone educate me as to what has been set up wrong?






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      • Paul Mill
        I thought this place might help you - was surprised you found it so quick! :) ... mikehur0 wrote: Thanks to everyone who responded to
        Message 3 of 10 , Feb 9, 2004
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          I thought this place might help you - was surprised you found it so quick! :)

          ---.Paul

          mikehur0 <mhurwitch@...> wrote:
          Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. You have given me
          some good tips!




          Check THE woodheat web site at http://www.woodheat.org
          To receive no more messages email: woodheat-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

          Yahoo! Groups Links






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        • jimnaj
          I sell outdoor boilers and always provide a water to water heat exhanger to isolate the indoor boiler from the outdoor one. This allows the indoor loop to
          Message 4 of 10 , Feb 13, 2004
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            I sell outdoor boilers and always provide a water to water heat
            exhanger to isolate the indoor boiler from the outdoor one. This
            allows the indoor loop to remain under pressure and the outdoor one
            can still breathe. This should solve your problem. If you can't find
            the parts you need or need further details contact me through my web
            site www.woodheatsupply.com

            --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "mikehur0" <mhurwitch@e...> wrote:
            > I moved into a farm house last year which uses hot water heat
            > provided by an Hardy outdoor wood stove. This is an open system:
            the
            > stove has a circulator that pumps the hot water to the house, and
            it
            > returns to the boiler tank which is vented to atmosphere.
            > Inside the house, the previous owner connected the plumbing to the
            > old closed system, but bypassed the old, broken oil burning boiler.
            > The radiators are old cast-iron, with the water flowing in and out
            of
            > ports at the base of the 2' high units.
            >
            > We can not seem to keep air out of the radiators! I close a valve
            at
            > the end of the last radiator, turn up the thermostat to start the
            > circulator, and bleed each radiator until they are full of water.
            > Within a day or two, we hear water gurgling in the system.
            >
            > I can't find any leaks. The radiators are higher in elevation than
            > the outdoor boiler tank, so I suspected that the water was
            > running 'downhill' when the circulator pump shut off. I added a
            zone
            > valve at the end of the loop, which shuts whenever the pump stops,
            > but it doesn't seem to
            > make a difference.
            >
            > Can anyone educate me as to what has been set up wrong?
          • Paul Mill
            I see you are a dealer for Harman wood boilers. Do you have any thoughts on those, good or bad? Obviously, you are a dealer. :) ... jimnaj
            Message 5 of 10 , Feb 26, 2004
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              I see you are a dealer for Harman wood boilers. Do you have any thoughts on those, good or bad? Obviously, you are a dealer. :)

              --->Paul

              jimnaj <jimnaj@...> wrote:
              I sell outdoor boilers and always provide a water to water heat
              exhanger to isolate the indoor boiler from the outdoor one. This
              allows the indoor loop to remain under pressure and the outdoor one
              can still breathe. This should solve your problem. If you can't find
              the parts you need or need further details contact me through my web
              site www.woodheatsupply.com


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            • jimnaj
              Yes I am a dealer. As a store owner it is my best interest to sell products that have the fewest customer call-backs and Harman fits the bill. They are worth
              Message 6 of 10 , Mar 14, 2004
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                Yes I am a dealer. As a store owner it is my best interest to sell
                products that have the fewest customer 'call-backs' and Harman fits
                the bill. They are worth taking a look at.

                Jim



                --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, Paul Mill <ramblerplm@y...> wrote:
                > I see you are a dealer for Harman wood boilers. Do you have any
                thoughts on those, good or bad? Obviously, you are a dealer. :)
                >
                > --->Paul
                >
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