Re: [woodheat] Catalytic or not ?
- I have been told by numerous installers and repair
people that a non catylyst stove is a better design
with lower repair bills.Make a study of it ask
questions and you can see for your self who wants all
your $ and who only want what is right for you and
your family.I am told JUCA makes a surerior fireplace
and inserts but I do not know first hand they have a
lot of useful info on there website,good luck...
--- Leonatra <leonatra@...> wrote:
> Hi John and others,
> First, thanx for answering question 2. Makes lots of
> sense. (previous professionally installed 8"
> connector was flush with the wall and the
> professionally installed stove pipe was just pushed
> into this, could not even have been screwed in.
> Wondering now, if 17 yrs ago that should have been
> done different.)
> Anyway, now we've checked on so many wood stoves -
> with and without catalytic converters.
> As more as we read as more difficult the choice
> seems to become. Usually word of mouth is best.
> I would also like to get some general input and also
> some input or comparison of like/dislike and
> advantage/disadvantage from listmembers who have
> used both type of stoves - for an entire heating
> season each.
> Our home is about 1400 sq feet and sits on a
> basement which is 2/3 in the ground. The house has
> triple glas windows, 6 " walls and is well
> insulated. The chimney is an outside chimney
> (actually 2 chimneys) but the one we will be using
> is the 6" steel lined chimney.
> Our 17 yr old non-catalytic Blazeking used around 3
> cords of wood annually and was our exclusive heat
> source (we have electric back up). We live in cold
> climate in the NW corner of Montan
> We have looked at
> Pacific Energy Super 27,
> Blaze King Princess (PE 1006) with catalytic
> converter and the
> upcoming Blazewood Briarwood non-catalytic
> Vermont Castings Dutchwest
> as well as one catalytic Englander
> Looking forward to accounts of firsthand experience
> rather than brochures :-)
- Anyway, now we've checked on so many wood stoves - with and without catalytic converters.As more as we read as more difficult the choice seems to become. Usually word of mouth is best.I would also like to get some general input and also some input or comparison of like/dislike and advantage/disadvantage from listmembers who have used both type of stoves - for an entire heating season each.
i've never owned a cat stove and it is very unlikely that anyone will asking me to wrote an article about wood stoves anytime soon but i purchased an MDR (a Regency clone) non-cat last fall and put it in a cabin in the UP of MI. My wood supply wasn't as dry as it should have been so i cut up some popple slabs & stacked some split ironwood & beech around the stove to finish drying. i was amazed by 2 things: 1. how well the slabs heated the cabin (24 x 32 with a loft) 2. how much flame was produced in the firebox. From the research i did before buying, cats seem to have a higher efficiency rating and nons are spose to be a little easier starting. i suspect that the debate is much like the ford/chevy one in vehicles. i went with the non because it was cheaper & the dealer was closer and i haven't regretted my choice. i think that if you buy the best that you can afford from a dealer you can trust you can't go far wrong.
markOur home is about 1400 sq feet and sits on a basement which is 2/3 in the ground. The house has triple glas windows, 6 " walls and is well insulated. The chimney is an outside chimney (actually 2 chimneys) but the one we will be using is the 6" steel lined chimney.Our 17 yr old non-catalytic Blazeking used around 3 cords of wood annually and was our exclusive heat source (we have electric back up). We live in cold climate in the NW corner of MontanWe have looked atPacific Energy Super 27,Blaze King Princess (PE 1006) with catalytic converter and theupcoming Blazewood Briarwood non-catalyticVermont Castings Dutchwestas well as one catalytic EnglanderLooking forward to accounts of firsthand experience rather than brochures :-)Kate
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