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Re: Jeep frame splicing

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  • pupdieselluv
    No doubt you have considered removing the fuel tank and protecting the other fluid carrying lines. I m doing the same thing on my 81 Isuzu PuP (Chevy LUV)
    Message 1 of 6 , Nov 3, 2008
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      No doubt you have considered removing the fuel tank and protecting
      the other fluid carrying lines.
      I'm doing the same thing on my 81 Isuzu PuP (Chevy LUV) truck.
      Cirrent,y I ahve rewelded about 45% of the frame.
      Using a stick welder...by the time I'm done I might actually be able
      to do vertical welds!! LOL

      Eric

      --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, "lynn_b_nutz" <lynn_b_nutz@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > After you get the new frame section done, use the 45 degree cuts you
      > mentioned, bevel the sections, and get crazy. When that's done,
      add a
      > 2-1/2" x 3/16" strap about six inches long (3" on each side of the
      > joint) on the top and bottom of the splice, a 1/8" x 2" strap 3"
      > inches long on the sides of the splice, and you're done. Toss the
      > body back on the frame, bolt on the wheels, and go have some fun.
      > Right after you weld in the brackets for that monster lift kit and
      the
      > long-travel nitrogen coil-overs, of course. :)
      >
      > The idea with adding the straps obviously is to deal with any
      possible
      > joint inefficiencies in the splice weld. Sizing the reinforcement
      > pieces so that the welds are staggered does the same thing while
      > adding a little fatigue resistance.
      >
      > If the welds are done anywhere close to correctly, your ride will
      last
      > a long, long time.
      >
      >
      > Lynn B.
      >
      > --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, "ridethesnake7miles"
      > <nickcurd@> wrote:
      > >
      > > I'm currently repairing the rear frame section on my Jeep due some
      > > rot. So I'm going to fabricate a new frame from about 20 inches
      from
      > > the rear back. First, since they don't make 4x2-1/2x1/8 steel
      tubing
      > > I'm going to take some 2-1/2x2-1/2x1/8 and chop and weld them with
      > > backer plates to make the 4x2-1/2. Then I have to notch and bend
      the
      > > tubing for a 20 degree bend. I was going to make 3 evenly spaced
      > > notches, bend it, hold it in a jig and weld. I also have to weld
      the
      > > spring shackle bushing through the tube. Then I need to figure out
      > > the best way to splice this to the existing frame. I've considered
      > > cutting each side at a 45 and butt welding them with backer
      plates or
      > > cut mating L-cuts on each side and butt welding them with backer
      > > plates. Either way I may weld an additional swiss cheese plate
      over
      > > top the weld seams. I'm trying to find out how they splice the
      frames
      > > on limos. Does anyone have any ideas or comments on how I can best
      > > accomplish this fix? I'll be using a Hobart Handler 220 with 0.030
      > > wire & 75-20 mix. This is the first time I've messed with a
      vehicle
      > > frame so I want to be sure I'm doing it right. Any help would be
      > awesome.
      > >
      >
    • lynn_b_nutz
      Fuel tank, fuel lines, brake lines, parking brake cable and linkage, and electrical wiring. It s embarrassing to have to explain to your buddy that the brake
      Message 2 of 6 , Nov 3, 2008
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        Fuel tank, fuel lines, brake lines, parking brake cable and linkage,
        and electrical wiring. It's embarrassing to have to explain to your
        buddy that the brake fluid dripping off the frame of his brand-new
        pickup truck is there because you drilled through the frame for a
        hold-down bolt on a new utility bed without looking on the other side
        of the frame first.

        I was only too glad to fix it for him. And yes, I look first now. :)


        Lynn B.

        --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, "pupdieselluv" <hmshop@...> wrote:
        >
        > No doubt you have considered removing the fuel tank and protecting
        > the other fluid carrying lines.
        > I'm doing the same thing on my 81 Isuzu PuP (Chevy LUV) truck.
        > Cirrent,y I ahve rewelded about 45% of the frame.
        > Using a stick welder...by the time I'm done I might actually be able
        > to do vertical welds!! LOL
        >
        > Eric
        >
        > --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, "lynn_b_nutz" <lynn_b_nutz@>
        > wrote:
        > >
        > > After you get the new frame section done, use the 45 degree cuts you
        > > mentioned, bevel the sections, and get crazy. When that's done,
        > add a
        > > 2-1/2" x 3/16" strap about six inches long (3" on each side of the
        > > joint) on the top and bottom of the splice, a 1/8" x 2" strap 3"
        > > inches long on the sides of the splice, and you're done. Toss the
        > > body back on the frame, bolt on the wheels, and go have some fun.
        > > Right after you weld in the brackets for that monster lift kit and
        > the
        > > long-travel nitrogen coil-overs, of course. :)
        > >
        > > The idea with adding the straps obviously is to deal with any
        > possible
        > > joint inefficiencies in the splice weld. Sizing the reinforcement
        > > pieces so that the welds are staggered does the same thing while
        > > adding a little fatigue resistance.
        > >
        > > If the welds are done anywhere close to correctly, your ride will
        > last
        > > a long, long time.
        > >
        > >
        > > Lynn B.
        > >
        > > --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, "ridethesnake7miles"
        > > <nickcurd@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > I'm currently repairing the rear frame section on my Jeep due some
        > > > rot. So I'm going to fabricate a new frame from about 20 inches
        > from
        > > > the rear back. First, since they don't make 4x2-1/2x1/8 steel
        > tubing
        > > > I'm going to take some 2-1/2x2-1/2x1/8 and chop and weld them with
        > > > backer plates to make the 4x2-1/2. Then I have to notch and bend
        > the
        > > > tubing for a 20 degree bend. I was going to make 3 evenly spaced
        > > > notches, bend it, hold it in a jig and weld. I also have to weld
        > the
        > > > spring shackle bushing through the tube. Then I need to figure out
        > > > the best way to splice this to the existing frame. I've considered
        > > > cutting each side at a 45 and butt welding them with backer
        > plates or
        > > > cut mating L-cuts on each side and butt welding them with backer
        > > > plates. Either way I may weld an additional swiss cheese plate
        > over
        > > > top the weld seams. I'm trying to find out how they splice the
        > frames
        > > > on limos. Does anyone have any ideas or comments on how I can best
        > > > accomplish this fix? I'll be using a Hobart Handler 220 with 0.030
        > > > wire & 75-20 mix. This is the first time I've messed with a
        > vehicle
        > > > frame so I want to be sure I'm doing it right. Any help would be
        > > awesome.
        > > >
        > >
        >
      • ridethesnake7miles
        Oh yeah, the tank is out and all the lines are well out of harms way. After a few stitches from a piece of tubing hitting me in the head, I started welding up
        Message 3 of 6 , Nov 3, 2008
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          Oh yeah, the tank is out and all the lines are well out of harms way.
          After a few stitches from a piece of tubing hitting me in the head, I
          started welding up the 4x2-1/2 last night. I'll find out how hard is
          going to be to get a 20 degree bend in it in a night or two.


          --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, "pupdieselluv" <hmshop@...> wrote:
          >
          > No doubt you have considered removing the fuel tank and protecting
          > the other fluid carrying lines.
          > I'm doing the same thing on my 81 Isuzu PuP (Chevy LUV) truck.
          > Cirrent,y I ahve rewelded about 45% of the frame.
          > Using a stick welder...by the time I'm done I might actually be able
          > to do vertical welds!! LOL
          >
          > Eric
          >
          > --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, "lynn_b_nutz" <lynn_b_nutz@>
          > wrote:
          > >
          > > After you get the new frame section done, use the 45 degree cuts you
          > > mentioned, bevel the sections, and get crazy. When that's done,
          > add a
          > > 2-1/2" x 3/16" strap about six inches long (3" on each side of the
          > > joint) on the top and bottom of the splice, a 1/8" x 2" strap 3"
          > > inches long on the sides of the splice, and you're done. Toss the
          > > body back on the frame, bolt on the wheels, and go have some fun.
          > > Right after you weld in the brackets for that monster lift kit and
          > the
          > > long-travel nitrogen coil-overs, of course. :)
          > >
          > > The idea with adding the straps obviously is to deal with any
          > possible
          > > joint inefficiencies in the splice weld. Sizing the reinforcement
          > > pieces so that the welds are staggered does the same thing while
          > > adding a little fatigue resistance.
          > >
          > > If the welds are done anywhere close to correctly, your ride will
          > last
          > > a long, long time.
          > >
          > >
          > > Lynn B.
          > >
          > > --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, "ridethesnake7miles"
          > > <nickcurd@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > I'm currently repairing the rear frame section on my Jeep due some
          > > > rot. So I'm going to fabricate a new frame from about 20 inches
          > from
          > > > the rear back. First, since they don't make 4x2-1/2x1/8 steel
          > tubing
          > > > I'm going to take some 2-1/2x2-1/2x1/8 and chop and weld them with
          > > > backer plates to make the 4x2-1/2. Then I have to notch and bend
          > the
          > > > tubing for a 20 degree bend. I was going to make 3 evenly spaced
          > > > notches, bend it, hold it in a jig and weld. I also have to weld
          > the
          > > > spring shackle bushing through the tube. Then I need to figure out
          > > > the best way to splice this to the existing frame. I've considered
          > > > cutting each side at a 45 and butt welding them with backer
          > plates or
          > > > cut mating L-cuts on each side and butt welding them with backer
          > > > plates. Either way I may weld an additional swiss cheese plate
          > over
          > > > top the weld seams. I'm trying to find out how they splice the
          > frames
          > > > on limos. Does anyone have any ideas or comments on how I can best
          > > > accomplish this fix? I'll be using a Hobart Handler 220 with 0.030
          > > > wire & 75-20 mix. This is the first time I've messed with a
          > vehicle
          > > > frame so I want to be sure I'm doing it right. Any help would be
          > > awesome.
          > > >
          > >
          >
        • ridethesnake7miles
          Do any of those shirts have instructions on how to weld up my frame? ... with
          Message 4 of 6 , Nov 4, 2008
          • 0 Attachment
            Do any of those shirts have instructions on how to weld up my frame?


            --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, James Sanchez <mraz041508@...>
            wrote:
            >
            > check out
            > cafepress.com/weldersheat
            > cafepress.com/weldersheat2
            > cafepress.com/weldersheat3
            > cafepress.com/weldersheat4
            >
            >
            > --- On Mon, 11/3/08, ridethesnake7miles <nickcurd@...> wrote:
            >
            > From: ridethesnake7miles <nickcurd@...>
            > Subject: [welding_group] Re: Jeep frame splicing
            > To: welding_group@yahoogroups.com
            > Date: Monday, November 3, 2008, 4:28 PM
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Oh yeah, the tank is out and all the lines are well out of harms way.
            > After a few stitches from a piece of tubing hitting me in the head, I
            > started welding up the 4x2-1/2 last night. I'll find out how hard is
            > going to be to get a 20 degree bend in it in a night or two.
            >
            > --- In welding_group@ yahoogroups. com, "pupdieselluv" <hmshop@> wrote:
            > >
            > > No doubt you have considered removing the fuel tank and protecting
            > > the other fluid carrying lines.
            > > I'm doing the same thing on my 81 Isuzu PuP (Chevy LUV) truck.
            > > Cirrent,y I ahve rewelded about 45% of the frame.
            > > Using a stick welder...by the time I'm done I might actually be able
            > > to do vertical welds!! LOL
            > >
            > > Eric
            > >
            > > --- In welding_group@ yahoogroups. com, "lynn_b_nutz" <lynn_b_nutz@ >
            > > wrote:
            > > >
            > > > After you get the new frame section done, use the 45 degree cuts you
            > > > mentioned, bevel the sections, and get crazy. When that's done,
            > > add a
            > > > 2-1/2" x 3/16" strap about six inches long (3" on each side of the
            > > > joint) on the top and bottom of the splice, a 1/8" x 2" strap 3"
            > > > inches long on the sides of the splice, and you're done. Toss the
            > > > body back on the frame, bolt on the wheels, and go have some fun.
            > > > Right after you weld in the brackets for that monster lift kit and
            > > the
            > > > long-travel nitrogen coil-overs, of course. :)
            > > >
            > > > The idea with adding the straps obviously is to deal with any
            > > possible
            > > > joint inefficiencies in the splice weld. Sizing the reinforcement
            > > > pieces so that the welds are staggered does the same thing while
            > > > adding a little fatigue resistance.
            > > >
            > > > If the welds are done anywhere close to correctly, your ride will
            > > last
            > > > a long, long time.
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > Lynn B.
            > > >
            > > > --- In welding_group@ yahoogroups. com, "ridethesnake7miles "
            > > > <nickcurd@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > I'm currently repairing the rear frame section on my Jeep due some
            > > > > rot. So I'm going to fabricate a new frame from about 20 inches
            > > from
            > > > > the rear back. First, since they don't make 4x2-1/2x1/8 steel
            > > tubing
            > > > > I'm going to take some 2-1/2x2-1/2x1/ 8 and chop and weld them
            with
            > > > > backer plates to make the 4x2-1/2. Then I have to notch and bend
            > > the
            > > > > tubing for a 20 degree bend. I was going to make 3 evenly spaced
            > > > > notches, bend it, hold it in a jig and weld. I also have to weld
            > > the
            > > > > spring shackle bushing through the tube. Then I need to figure out
            > > > > the best way to splice this to the existing frame. I've considered
            > > > > cutting each side at a 45 and butt welding them with backer
            > > plates or
            > > > > cut mating L-cuts on each side and butt welding them with backer
            > > > > plates. Either way I may weld an additional swiss cheese plate
            > > over
            > > > > top the weld seams. I'm trying to find out how they splice the
            > > frames
            > > > > on limos. Does anyone have any ideas or comments on how I can best
            > > > > accomplish this fix? I'll be using a Hobart Handler 220 with 0.030
            > > > > wire & 75-20 mix. This is the first time I've messed with a
            > > vehicle
            > > > > frame so I want to be sure I'm doing it right. Any help would be
            > > > awesome.
            > > > >
            > > >
            > >
            >
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