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C30A going to high heat after it switched to low.

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  • Parietal
    Hi Group, I am hoping that there will be someone to figure this one out. Occasionally when I make coffee in the C30A, I find that the heat is raised after the
    Message 1 of 3 , Dec 6, 2011
      Hi Group,

      I am hoping that there will be someone to figure this one out.

      Occasionally when I make coffee in the C30A, I find that the heat is raised after the brew cycle and the pot has made its switch to LOW. When it does this it is usually on warm cycle for a little while and then I notice that it is actually boiling the coffee which is remaining in the pot. Sometimes it boils quite violently and can even overflow the through lid.

      It seems that this is strange enough to ask for assistance in resolving this peculiarity.

      Thanks for reading!

      Don
    • John A.
      Hi Don, Check the LOW temperature adjustment. Coffeemasters were generally set at the factory for the contact points to open at around 210 - 220 degrees
      Message 2 of 3 , Dec 6, 2011
        Hi Don,

        Check the LOW temperature adjustment. Coffeemasters were generally set at the factory for the contact points to open at around 210 - 220 degrees (internal temp) on LOW. This translates to a coffee temp of between 165 - 185 degrees. A few things to look for: (1) Moisture has caused some rust or corrosion to form on the switch assembly and contact points. (2) The lock nut on the adjustment screw has gotten loose, allowing the screw to loosen. (Screw on the left when looking into the machine) (3) The terminal contact spring is bent, which can happen by excessive downward pressure while tightening the set screw. (4) The thermostat blade has gotten loose from the bowl, or the porcelain button on the blade is damaged, which will cause the switch to function erratically.

        Anyway, these are the first things I'd look at if it were happening to me.

        By the way, you and the rest of the group may want to save this link to the digitized copy of my 26 page Service Bulletin for the Sunbeam Coffeemaster C20 thru C30A (No. 179-18, March 2, 1959), which I uploaded to Google Docs. This is a later bulletin, and it glosses over some of the old C20 stuff, but it is quite helpful for the C30 and C30A.

        https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1zMF-IIUKmabXm9_4EEui2FuRie_7ivZVQZs-12XvC20&pli=1

        John A.


        --- In vacuumcoffeepotcollector@yahoogroups.com, "Parietal" <parietal1951@...> wrote:
        >
        > Hi Group,
        >
        > I am hoping that there will be someone to figure this one out.
        >
        > Occasionally when I make coffee in the C30A, I find that the heat is raised after the brew cycle and the pot has made its switch to LOW. When it does this it is usually on warm cycle for a little while and then I notice that it is actually boiling the coffee which is remaining in the pot. Sometimes it boils quite violently and can even overflow the through lid.
        >
        > It seems that this is strange enough to ask for assistance in resolving this peculiarity.
        >
        > Thanks for reading!
        >
        > Don
        >
      • Phil Warner
        I’ve experienced the same occasional overheating and boiling over on the warm setting on two C30C bottom units and am now using a spare C30A bottom unit with
        Message 3 of 3 , Dec 7, 2011
          I’ve experienced the same occasional overheating and boiling over on the warm setting on two C30C bottom units and am now using a spare C30A bottom unit with a C30C top until I can follow up on John A’s suggestions. I am guessing my problem could be his suggestion 4 since it was definitely erratic.

          Cheers, Phil Warner

          “Occasionally when I make coffee in the C30A, I find that the heat is raised after the brew cycle and the pot has made its switch to LOW. When it does this it is usually on warm cycle for a little while and then I notice that it is actually boiling the coffee which is remaining in the pot. Sometimes it boils quite violently and can even overflow the through lid. It seems that this is strange enough to ask for assistance in resolving this peculiarity. Thanks for reading! Don”


          Hi Don, .... A few things to look for: (1) Moisture has caused some rust or corrosion to form on the switch assembly and contact points. (2) The lock nut on the adjustment screw has gotten loose, allowing the screw to loosen. (Screw on the left when looking into the machine) (3) The terminal contact spring is bent, which can happen by excessive downward pressure while tightening the set screw. (4) The thermostat blade has gotten loose from the bowl, or the porcelain button on the blade is damaged, which will cause the switch to function erratically.






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