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Re: [vacpot] Re: So sad

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  • Janet Stallone
    Wow, you guys are real fonts of information and great ideas! Would you happen to know what that size might be? I guess I could use a kids compass and then
    Message 1 of 39 , Feb 13, 2011
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      Wow, you guys are real fonts of information and great ideas! Would you
      happen to know what that size might be?
      I guess I could use a kids compass and then measure the span.
      Thanks!
      JanetTX

      On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 8:10 AM, Dave Leonard
      <the_hurdy_gurdyman@...>wrote:

      >
      >
      > You could also try motorcycle salvage. They have lots of thin wrenches.
      >
      > The cheapest way may be to buy a cheap department store wrench of the
      > correct nut size and have it ground flat. Anyone with a grinder can do this
      > in minutes. It will become a one type of use wrench, but will have little
      > expense involved.
      >
      > Dave in Michigan
      >
      > The Hurdy-Gurdy Man,
      >
      > --- On Sat, 2/12/11, Tex <Texas_Coffee@...> wrote:
      >
      > From: Tex <Texas_Coffee@...>
      >
      > Subject: [vacpot] Re: So sad
      > To: vacuumcoffeepotcollector@yahoogroups.com
      > Date: Saturday, February 12, 2011, 10:34 PM
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Try bicycle shops; they carry lots of thin/lightweight tools. Pricey, but
      > you'll probably find what you need. Heck, I had a set of wrenches that came
      > with my Schwinn back in my youth that would probably do the trick:
      > http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31wsBZh5YbL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
      >
      > Tex
      >
      > --- In vacuumcoffeepotcollector@yahoogroups.com, Janet Stallone
      > <donkeymomtx@...> wrote:
      >
      > >
      >
      > > Thanks for the info, John. I'd rather not remove the "guts" if I don't
      > have
      >
      > > to. As soon as I can find an open ended wrench thin enough to fit beneath
      >
      > > the switches, I'll try tightening that nut as you suggested.
      >
      > > Meanwhile, I think I'll just put it back together and run it thru it's
      > paces
      >
      > > with water only, and try to see where the problem is.
      >
      > > JanetTX
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > On Thu, Feb 10, 2011 at 2:12 PM, Phil Warner <philwarner@...>wrote:
      >
      > >
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > Thanks for the repair lesson, John, and I couldn't agree with you more
      >
      > > > about the C30C being the best (or at least my favorite) model
      > CoffeeMaster.
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > I don't have a leak problem (yet) but I do have a question about the
      > mesh
      >
      > > > filters rubber sealing ring. We've had two now that expanded enough to
      > not
      >
      > > > fit closely around mesh and metal disks to hold them together, and one
      > let
      >
      > > > the mesh slip and tore the center hole. This rubber sealing ring seems
      > to be
      >
      > > > the weak point of the design. When I worked in a research equipment
      > shop to
      >
      > > > put myself through college we used to make little drive belts from
      > rubber O
      >
      > > > ring stock by cutting lengths square on the ends with a razor blade in
      > a
      >
      > > > fixture and super-gluing the ends together in a V shaped trough of the
      >
      > > > fixture (that was before the stuff was called super-glue), and I am
      >
      > > > wondering if I can cut a small section out of this ring and glue it
      > back
      >
      > > > together successfully. I am also wondering it there is a source for new
      >
      > > > ones. Anyone?
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > I also have one top vessel that developed a crack in the plastic
      >
      > > > (Bakelite?) ring around the top and I've tried to see if it is a pair
      > of
      >
      > > > screws holding it to the vessel from the inside. What I can see with a
      >
      > > > mirror looks more like a rivet than a fastener that will screw out; can
      >
      > > > anyone verify that? If so, I guess I'll have to try the super-gluing or
      >
      > > > gorilla-gluing the ring while it is still attached. (my wife says the
      > crack
      >
      > > > makes it boil out when brewing, so we're using a dented top vessel from
      > a
      >
      > > > spare unit.)
      >
      > > > Cheers, Phil
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > an American teenager can be a soldier with nine weeks training
      >
      > > > ....but an Afghan adult can't be trained in nine years ? ! ?
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > John wrote:
      >
      > > > Re: So sad
      >
      > > > Posted by: "John A." kreuzueber.halbmond@... iluv_vac
      >
      > > > Wed Feb 9, 2011 12:13 pm (PST)
      >
      > > > Hi Janet,
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > I own several C30C Coffeemasters and have worked on them from time to
      > time.
      >
      > > > Your problem is entirely fixable. In my opinion, this is the best model
      >
      > > > Sunbeam made. They got the combination of size, heating element and
      > switch
      >
      > > > assembly just right, and if you have a later one - one with a newer
      > rubber
      >
      > > > seat ring - you are in good shape.
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > There are only two ways I know of for coffee to get into the base:
      >
      > > > (1) It bubbles over, runs down the side, and seeps in around the top,
      >
      > > > switch and terminal connector.
      >
      > > > or:
      >
      > > > (2) The rubber center stud seal washer on the underside of the bowl is
      >
      > > > leaking - either because it is cracked or the nut squeezing it has
      > gotten
      >
      > > > loose.
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > The center stud is pressed into the bowl at the factory. It spins, but
      > it
      >
      > > > is not a bolt and is not removable. There is a shoulder nut that screws
      > to
      >
      > > > the stud and secures the terminal bracket and switch assembly in place.
      > It
      >
      > > > could be that this bolt is loose, and all you need to do is tighten it.
      > It's
      >
      > > > easier if you remove the handle and plastic base first. Use the correct
      > hex
      >
      > > > sockets with extensions and hold the stud on the inside of the bowl to
      > keep
      >
      > > > it from spinning while you tighten the switch shoulder nut. If it is
      > already
      >
      > > > tight, then you have to remove the entire switch assembly to get to the
      >
      > > > gasket, and either replace it or use some high heat silicone gasket
      > material
      >
      > > > to make a new one, or high heat sealant to fix it. If you have
      > questions,
      >
      > > > I'd be glad to try and answer them for you.
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > Regards,
      >
      > > > John A.
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > >
      >
      > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > --
      >
      > > Wild Burro and Donkey Foundation of Central Texas
      >
      > > PO Box 5682, Bryan, TX 77805
      >
      > > A 501 C (3) organization
      >
      > > donkeymomtx@...
      >
      > > burrojack@...
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      > >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      >
      >



      --
      Wild Burro and Donkey Foundation of Central Texas
      PO Box 5682, Bryan, TX 77805
      A 501 C (3) organization
      donkeymomtx@...
      burrojack@...


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    • Phil Warner
      Thanks, Dave, So that’s why the C30C has that little hole in the stem; it makes perfect sense now. I’ve never been able to tell if ALL the water gets to
      Message 39 of 39 , Feb 18, 2011
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        Thanks, Dave, So that’s why the C30C has that little hole in the stem; it makes perfect sense now. I’ve never been able to tell if ALL the water gets to the top vessel before it switches to “brew” temp, but in removing the lid to measure the top temperature it sure looks like most of it does. Pretty smart guy, that Ivar Jepson.

        Cheers, Phil

        an American teenager can be a soldier with nine weeks training
        ....but an Afghan adult can't be trained in nine years ? ! ?

        Re: So sad
        Posted by: "Dave Leonard" the_hurdy_gurdyman@... the_hurdy_gurdyman
        Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:52 am (PST)
        Phil,

        The Bodum Santos Electric, when used with the funnel attached with cold water, sends the water up way too soon. It could best be described as "luke warm" until it bursts out for it's short brew cycle. It never reaches 'hot". The coffee was at a comfortable drinking temperature immediately after brewing, which is just not hot enough, IMO. I simply drilled a 1/16 inch hole in the funnel stem a bit below the funnel seal. This imitates the C30 in waiting until the water is bubbling good before going north. The coffee brews much hotter for the same time period, and tastes much better using less coffee than before. These were all pluses in my book. :)



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