On a Turkish Isle, Winds Tend the Vines
Nicole Tung for The New York Times
Corvus Vineyards. More Photos
By KATIE PARLA
Published: July 6, 2012
AN image can call to mind a place, and occasionally a sound does, too.And, of course, so do scents.
One enduring memory of my trip last summer to Bozcaada, an island offthe western coast of Turkey, is the aroma of maturing figs, lavenderand rosemary carried by persistent winds that locals say help shape theisland’s character. Funneled through the Dardanelles, which connectsthe Sea of Marmara to the Aegean, the winds repel all but the mostcommitted travelers in the winter and attract small numbers of them inthe spring and summer. And they help create an environment fardifferent from the mainland: breezy, pleasantly warm and dry, ideal forcultivating grapes.
That means that this 15-square-mile island — a seven-hour trip fromIstanbul by bus and ferry — offers solitude with a dash of culture inits only town, also called Bozcaada, and vineyards, whose output hashelped make this one of Turkey’s most promising wine destinations.
“It is the special climate on the island that makes a great redwine,” said Hermann Gareis, who started the newest vineyard on theisland, Amadeus, just west of the town in 2010.
His is one of many vineyards that undulate from the edge of town tothe coasts, interrupted by occasional clusters of houses or a hotel.Most residents produce their own wine in small batches and, despiteobstacles to commercial production — a dearth of labor, high taxes onalcohol and distant wine-drinking cities — several producers areturning out excellent wines.
Amadeus is gaining a toehold. Under the tutelage of an Italianenologist, Mr. Gareis and his son, Oliver, planted several vineyardsacross the island, then opened a winery in 2010 that turned out 14,000bottles that year; they more than tripled that number with the 2011harvest.
Read the reset at: http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/07/08/travel/on-a-turkish-isle-winds-tend-the-vines.html