Re: [turbocnc] Re: software to get started
- Hi Nick,
did you get the HobbyCNC kit that included the diode
bridge and the big blue electrolytic capacitor? If you
did all you really need to find is a transformer and
case. I have a great source for transformers. Let me
know what parts you have or need and I'll see how I
can help. The 12v car battery won't give as much power
as a 30v supply, even though you can potentially get
infinite current from it!!
--- dreamforge <dreamforge@...> wrote:
> Hi Paul,__________________________________
> I have one of Dave Riggoti's hobbycnc kits (which is
> great) but have been remiss in getting a proper
> power supply for it so far (been getting by with
> battery charger and 12v car battery! but it really
> not good enough) can i ask for a little
> schematic/transformer rating etc for what you have
> done?. I can solder but dont pretend to know
> anything about electronics.
> Nick Ibbitson
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: June Beckingham
> To: email@example.com
> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2003 3:20 AM
> Subject: RE: [turbocnc] Re: software to get
> Hi Jerry,
> I am still getting the software together so I
> made any parts yet! Very frustrating, but I'm
> I used the HobbyCNC kit, with motors, driver board
> The motors are fine, I imagine you can get then
> separately.The electronics package is nice and
> complete, except for the transformer. Marlin P
> have a perfect one at only $18. I guess you
> have drive hardware, is it the simple dropper
> type or the pulsed version?
> If you are going to order the Igus bearings and
> rods and screws, you might want to add to David's
> so you only pay one lot of freight:
> 2 x Igus WLI-0405-06 bearings
> 2 x 6inch 1/4 diam rods. I bought the more precise
> ground finish, rather than the water quenched type
> recommended. Not much more expensive.
> I'll put some more photos up, including the wiring
> loop underneath, and a shot of the battleship, as
> --- Carol & Jerry Jankura
> > Hi, Paul:
> > You've done a really nice job on the gantry. As
> > others have asked, it'd be
> > nice to see some of the parts you're making with
> > Are your motors and drivers from HobbyCNC as
> > At least for starters,
> > I'm planning on getting some cheam motors
> > and using my existing
> > driver hardware and computer to run it. I'll use
> > VectorCAM to draw the
> > parts, and TurboCNC to run the gantry.
> > I ordered a copy of the plans from Dave earlier
> > today, so I expect to get
> > them in the near future.
> > -- Carol & Jerry Jankura
> > Strongsville, Ohio
> > So many toys, So little time ....
> > | -----Original Message-----
> > | From: paulandjune
> > | Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 11:31 AM
> > | To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> > | Subject: [turbocnc] Re: software to get
> > |
> > |
> > |
> > | Hi Jerry,
> > | I have put a couple photos in the photo area,
> > hope I got it right.
> > | I'll add more if there is interest
> > | regards, Paul
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- Hi Dave,
OOps, I didn't mean to upset you about those ground rods! You are
right of course about not being able to measure the straightness over
I bought them for ALL three axis after reading the McMaster catalog.
They recommend the cheap drill rods for "pin, shaft, punch, drill,
and die production," and warn that "you must allow for a reasonable
amount of warpage and shrinkage because of the rapid cooling in the
By contrast, the ground rods ARE specfied for guide rods. I was
unsure if that justified the extra cost ( Y rods were $8 each compared
to $4 for a 3ft chunk of drill rod, Z rods were $2.50 against $1.50),
but then I read the caution note with the Igus bearings. Igus say the
their bearings sometimes chatter, rather than run smoothly, unless a
ground finish is used. It seems they don't like a very smooth finish!!
Also, chattering can occur when the set up violates a basic
engineering principal concerning spacing. As I understand it,
chattering cannot occur if the bearings on each rod are separated by a
distance greater than the rod separation. Thats not the case with the
HobbyCNC unit, so I blew the extra few bucks just to be on the safe
side! I didn't want to just "build and then improve" - I want to build
Its a great hobby system you have Dave, especially with the new
circuit board! My reason for using Z rods in the first place, rather
than the acrylic block you recommend, was my lack of skill in getting
the acrylic to slide smoothly and the fear that the plastic Dremel
holder might flex. I guess this was all just 'overkill', - comes from
building battleships I guess!