Re: [tracker2] New Tracker2 Owner Questions
Thanks for the response. See my replies below:
1. Sounds good. I will leave squelch open with SWDCD on.
2. It looks like I do not need to worry about custom symbols then.
3. I understand, and it looks like the DAO function may confuse some clients anyways. (I will try compression per Lance's comment--thanks Lance)
4. OK, I already added a station to the AUTHLIST, it seems everything else is probably OK at default.
6. Thanks. I will use Smartbeaconing and play around with the timings.
7. All the settings are default (AMODE AUTO, MON ON, and INFO shows CFG1). Maybe conditions were bad or something because I am now starting to see packets.
One more question -- How do you know to activate the EQ and HI jumper or not? Currently, I have the EQ jumper on and the HI jumper off.
On Sat, May 3, 2008 at 3:09 PM, Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...> wrote:
Brent KF4JZY wrote...Yes... if the squelch is open, you won't be waiting for it to open. You
> 1. Is it better to turn the SWDCD function on and leave the radio
should be able to copy weaker signals too.Garmin Custom Symbols.zip at
> 2. I will be using this with my Nuvi 350. I see something about custom
> symbols. Is this something that I should consider? What exactly are
> the custom symbols?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tracker2/files However, in Message #3263
Joe W0PWJ said "One of the shortcomings of the 350 is that Garmin's
X-Image will not work with it, so you cannot upload custom symbols."No. What's the point? Sending extra digits doesn't really mean a lot
> 3. Do you normally use the DAO function for greater accuracy?
unless you know the data is good. I'm sure some people will argue for
it, but to me, it doesn't really make any difference if it shows me on
one side of the road or the other. Usually direction of travel is enough
to indicate that.If you want to modify retries, add your callsign to the AUTHLIST etc.
> 4. Do you normally modify any of the console commands that are not
> configurable by the GUI program or are they usually set OK by default
> (retries, retry timeout, etc.)
you could do it in a terminal program.It depends. If the frequency isn't very busy where you normally park,
> 5. Do you normally leave constant power to the Tracker2 and radio or
> do you have it on a switched power source?
bandwidth wouldn't be a factor. If you drive every day, you probably
won't kill the battery. If you use SmartBeaconing, the beacon rate can
be much lower while you are parked.Use SmartBeaconing! You don't have to use the default settings. Adjust
> 6. I do a lot of driving in my small town. I'm thinking that the
> default Smartbeaconing settings may not be optimum. There are a lot of
> times I only drive 2 minutes down the road. Would it be better just to
> leave Smartbeaconing off? What do you think would be best in my case?
them based on the kind of driving you do. If you are normally going to
leave it beaconing 24/7, set the slow rate to every half hour... 1800
seconds. Set the slow rate down around 5 kmh and set the fast rate based
on the kind of driving you do. if you do lots of driving in town, set
the fast rate at 70 kmh. If you do lots of highway driving, set it at 90
kmh or whatever. If most of your driving is only two minutes... ride a
bike! If most of your driving is in town at city speeds, you might want
to set the fast speed to just 50-70 kmh. Set the fast rate to 60
seconds. Corner pegging will cause it to beacon when you turn a corner.
SmartBeaconing is the best setting for most people, but definitely look
at the settings and adjust them to your needs.Do you get a command prompt when you hit enter a few times? You say that
> 7. I have been playing with the Tracker2 in my home today. I'm
> noticing that it is not decoding any packets (I'm monitoring via
> Winpack and mon is ON). I can decode packets with my other radio and
> with my PK-232. I see the green RX light come on, but no info on the
> screen. I've tried with the EQ jumper on and off. I've been reading
> posts lately about some people not being able to digi because of this.
> Maybe the HT I have it hooked to (HTX-202) is not as clear on receive
> even though I am using the same antenna??
MON is ON, so you must have had a command prompt to set it or check it.
Are you looking at config 1 or config 2? What do you have entered for
profile switching? Do you have AMODE AUTO? Have you tried adjusting the
audio levels out of the radio?I've usually use the stable release, but did play around with the beta
> 8. I noticed that Scott posted a new beta firmware. Do you guys
> usually jump on the betas or stick with the stable releases? Are they
> usually pretty stable?
release a day or two back.
73 es cul - Keith VE7GDH
"I may be lost, but I know exactly where I am!"
- Brent KF4JZY wrote...
> One more question -- How do you know to activate the EQ and HI jumperThe EQ jumper enables receive equalization. I would say don't enable it
> or not? Currently, I have the EQ jumper on and the HI jumper off.
if you are feeding it with de-empathized audio, but... by all means try
it both ways and see what results you get.
The HI jumper raises the transmit audio level. You want about a little
over 3 kHz. If you are setting it by ear, err on the low side.
73 es cul - Keith VE7GDH
"I may be lost, but I know exactly where I am!"
- On Sat, May 3, 2008 at 2:09 PM, Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...> wrote:
> > 6. I do a lot of driving in my small town. I'm thinking that theCornerPegging (tm) is going to be the routine that causes the most
> > default Smartbeaconing settings may not be optimum. There are a lot of
> > times I only drive 2 minutes down the road. Would it be better just to
> > leave Smartbeaconing off? What do you think would be best in my case?
> Use SmartBeaconing! You don't have to use the default settings.
> Corner pegging will cause it to beacon when you turn a corner.
> SmartBeaconing is the best setting for most people, but definitely look
> at the settings and adjust them to your needs.
position reports to be sent during city driving, where you are making
many turns. SmartBeaconing (tm) is designed to automatically adjust
the reporting rate in relation to the speed you are traveling. There's
no need to report your parked vehicle location every minute or two.
Slow speed reporting rates should be over a long interval, as Keith
suggests, 1800 seconds is good. High speed reporting rates are the
minimum amount of time that you want to pass before reporting a new
position when driving at or above your high speed threshold. When you
are driving in an area where you will be making many successive turns,
such as a parking lot, or traffic circle, you will want to make sure
that the minimum turn time will keep you from sending a flurry of
packets in rapid succession.
By all means, you can play with the SmartBeacon settings, but I would
highly recommend that you read up on SmartBeaconing and what the
various parameters affect. Poorly selected SmartBeacon parameters can
increase the traffic load on a channel rather than decrease it as
SmartBeaconing was designed.
If you are going to turn SmartBeaconing off, and as you say, you only
drive for 2 minutes down the road, you will probably select a fairly
short position reporting interval, so you will show where you were
when you started your vehicle, and possibly get another report out
before you park. You'll probably also want to leave the tracker on, so
that your vehicle will show up where it is parked, rather than where
it was when it last sent a position report before it was turned off.
This situation is bad, as you will most likely end up sending position
reports from a parked vehicle at an unreasonably rapid rate, clogging
the APRS network with redundant data.
I'd suggest leaving SmartBeaconing turned on, and leaving the tracker
powered up. SmartBeaconing will automatically work to make your
tracker as network friendly as possible.
Add an APO3 to the mix, and have your tracker automatically power down
after being parked for a set time, or when it senses that your battery
voltage level is getting low.